Find some latex gloves, do not try this in the living room on the carpet, keep pets and small children away or it will become a bonding experience for the whole family.

I think this is one of the most comprehensive set of instructions for gluing (from cyclocrossworld.com): Mounting Tubulars
by CyclocrossWorld’s Stuart Thorne

1. Mount the tubular onto a rim without glue. Inflate to 80-100 psi and allow to stand overnight. This will allow the tire to stretch. The tire can be pre-stretched by placing it over your shoulder and knee, then gently tugging on the tire. Not only does mounting the tire on a dry rim help to stretch it, but it also allows the tire to be thoroughly inspected before it is glued. Spin the wheel and check the tire for any defects or deviations.

2. Prepare the gluing surfaces. Clean the rim contact area with a solvent, such as acetone or alcohol, Do not use a solvent that leaves an oily film, such as mineral spirits. Sometimes riders scour the rim surface with emery cloth or a wire brush, but this is not necessary, as the bond between the tire and rim is not mechanical. Prepare the tire base tape area by making sure that the surface is free of contaminants.

3. Applying glue to the tire. Whenever gluing a tire, make sure that you do so in a well ventilated area. Re-inflate the tire so that the base tape has rolled outward. Apply a layer of glue evenly to the base tape. The best method for doing this is to use an acid brush. They are available at any hardware store for about ten cents each. They will make the whole process a lot easier, so buy a hand full. You can also use a plastic bag over your finger and spread the glue. Ensure that the glue coverage is complete and even. If glue spreads to the sidewalls of the tire, just wipe it away with the acid brush or the plastic bag. Allow this layer to set up for 24 hours. Then apply a second layer, just before your ready to glue the final coat on the rim. Instructions with the glues suggest that curing times are faster. Most glues do not come to full strength until six to eight hours have elapsed. High humidity conditions and/or low temperatures will lengthen the curing time beyond this. To save time for the next gluing session, you can glue several tires at once. Remember to store them in a dry place and keep them free of contaminants.


4. Applying glue to the new rim. Multiple coats of glue are used to build up the bed of contact with the tire. It is important to have sufficient glue to have good contact between the tire and rim. However, too much glue results in a weak joint, which reduces the effectiveness of the glue. Applying one thick coat must be avoided. Apply a thin layer of glue across the entire width of the rim contact area. The principal bond is at the edge; therefore, it is critical for best performance to ensure that the glue reaches the edges of the rim. An acid brush is once again your best choice to spread the glue. If glue gets on the braking surface, it can be carefully removed later with a suitable solvent. This initial coat of glue should be allowed to dry, again, for 24 hours. After that coat of glue has cured for 24 hours, apply a second coat of glue and allow it to dry for at least 12 hours. Apply a third coat. This is the mounting coat. Once this becomes 'tacky', the tire can be mounted. Patience is the key to this whole process.


5. Installing the tire to the rim. The tire should be partially deflated with enough air remaining so that the tire retains its shape. Place the rim vertically on a clean, smooth surface with the valve hole at the top of the rim. Place the valve stem through the hole and ensure that it is properly aligned. Grab the tire with your left hand about eight inches or so away from the valve stem. Do the same with your right hand. Pull the tire outward and downward with a mighty heave and place the section of the tire between your hands on the rim. Slide your hands another few inches down the tire. Pull and install this section. Continue the process until the tire is completely mounted. If mounting becomes difficult 180 degrees from the valve stem, press the mounted portion of the tire against a table edge or other solid object to act as a 'holder', then roll the tubular onto the rim using both hands and thumbs on one side of the tire. It is wise to wear a shop apron when tackling this part of the procedure to keep the glue from getting on your clothing.


6. Align the tire on the rim. With the tire fully on the rim, inflate slightly more, 40-50 psi, giving the tire shape. You will be able to lift it off the rim surface and move it as you center the tire on the rim. Spin the wheel and align the tire with the center of the rim. Alignment can be done by lifting the tire and moving its center relative to the rim, or by twisting the tubular. You must work quickly at this stage because the glue will begin to set immediately. You can use the center tread or the base tape as an alignment gauge. Higher quality tubulars will align properly. Lower quality tires were not necessarily made straight, so perfect alignment may not be possible. On cyclocross tubulars, such as handmade Dugasts, trying to center the tire can be very difficult, because the treads could be glued to the casing somewhat crooked. Also on cyclocross tires the need to have them perfectly straight is not absolute.


7. Seating the tire on the rim. Place the wheel on the floor and roll it while pushing downward on the hub. This presses the base tape against the rim. Inflate the tire fully, at least 100 psi, and check your alignment. If the alignment is not sufficient, deflate and return to prior step. Otherwise, store in a cool dry place fully inflated, preferably for 24 hours, to allow the glue to cure. Do not attempt to ride a freshly glued tubular or you'll be asking for trouble.


8. Clean glue off of the braking surface of the rim using scrapers or solvents and rags. If you use a solvent, do not allow it to enter the interface between the tire and rim.



Please note: CyclocrossWorld.com provides these instructions as a service to our customers. We will not be liable for any use or misuse of products or techniques described here. Remember, cycling is an inherently dangerous sport!