If you move forward when racing, I would just slide the saddle under your butt. Also I think you can drop some spacers and work on getting lower in the front.

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"Yeah, no one likes a smartass, but we all like stars" - Thom Yorke


smartasscoach.tri-oeiras.com

Agree w/smartass. Also, much nicer kit this year for Cycles Veloce - better than the Tiajuana World Champoinship jersey from last year! :-)

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Jim Manton / ERO Sports

Hey, at least you look like Davis Phinney even if you don't ride like him.

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Las Vegas NV | IM KY 07

I don't agree.....and I hope everyone agrees that we can disagree without arguments......I'm "just a guy" with no set-up experience except my own done by a LBS. I wouldn't recommend you go any lower unless your back and flexibility allows, without loosing wattage output. I was riding at a drop of 18cm 2 years ago. it was very comfortable and I could ride all day long in the aero position. When i went for a 4 hour fit at the LBS, they raised my bars about 8cm and I lost only 2cm in back height. BUT, I improved wattage output by over 12%. SO.....be careful with the "low is the best" position for everyone. I currently ride slightly lower now then 2 years ago....probably at about a 12-13 cm drop, while also getting further forward over the BB.

We found during that fit 2 years ago that my shoulders were curving down to get to the aerobars instead of lowering my back, so the huge drop really wasn't making me more aero, and was limiting my wattage and breathing ability.

We all can't and shouldn't look like Bjorn when we ride!!

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Paul

What if your power output went up by 12% and your drag number were up for a higher percentage? Also you can't account for adaptation when you do a fitting like that because the higher you'll be, the more powerful you are.

Even today Slowman posted this:

http://forum.slowtwitch.com/...i?post=344255#344255

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"Yeah, no one likes a smartass, but we all like stars" - Thom Yorke


smartasscoach.tri-oeiras.com

If I raise my back only 2cm and gain 12-15% in wattage, is that good or bad? Does the reduced aero advantage of the 2cm account for more or less time savings then the wattage increase? That was actually the piont I was trying to make, although it didn't come across like that.

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Paul

12-15% in wattage would be like 45w for me for CP60, and I know that when switching from my road to TT position, my CP30 power is the same.

CP60?....CP30?...............whoa...you're over my head here!!

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Paul

Gary:

I've seen a few data points from you that really pique my
curiosity:

* 300 watts to do 25mph
* CP30 same on road and TT bike
* Road and TT bike times very close on 20K course

For reference, I'm 5'10 and did 27mph with 287
watts last year on my only flat, windless TT
of the year. From the photos I've seen, your
TT position is a lot better than mine.

I have an interesting *theory* about this. To test
it can you tell me the following:


* Which Powermeter are you using when you ride each
bike?

* What wheels and tires are you riding on each bike?

* When you did 300 watts to do 24.X mph, was the
course flat and windless?



cheers, Jens (the *first* Jens to ride a P3-SL)

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My latest book: "Out of the Melting Pot, Into the Fire" is on sale on Amazon and at other online and local booksellers