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I'm currently riding a cannondale CAD4 road bike. I did Roth on it last year with a set of tri bars. The usual back ache but otherwise comfortable. I ride about 5000 miles a year on it. Most experts on this site seem to suggest that tri bars on road geometry just don't work.
A friend has an older Cannondale ( CADD3 I think, the old 2.8 lb frame) 650 tri frame. It's all aluminum and has a very harsh ride. He will lend me this bike.
Assuming I get a carbon fork for it, to ease the pain, how much time will I save due to aerodynamics?
Would it be worth buying a Renn disc to speed up even further ? How much time saving is likely over IM distance?
Obviously these estimates would be approximate but in Florida I would expect to spend 80% of my time on the tri bars.
Thanks. I'll now go and read Tom's article on tri-bars on road bikes.
It's nothing wrong using a road bike with clipons for triathlon IF you are able to get the right position, and it's stable in the forward position. Usually a road bike has a too high steering tube, which makes it impossible to get the bars low enough. It's also a common problem with road bikes that it don't allow you to move the seat enough forward. When moving the seat forward, it's common to get too much weight on the front wheel, disturbing the handling of the bike.
But it depends on which bike, which bike size and your ideal position. If it works OK for you on your road bike - continue to use your bike. The differences in aerodynamics are not significant. And I would not change to a harsher bike if I had back problems; you will probably get more of the problems, resulting in not beeing able to sit in the low aero position - and that is significant.
On the other hand - are the back problems a result of bad fit ? Due limitations on the bike ? Then you should do something about it ?
I bought my first (and only) tri bike 2 years ago - an old circa 89 pre-CAAD Cannondale. I got an ouzo pro fork, syntace base bars and C2's, and some Rolf pro wheels (used). I think its a great bike and can't justify spending $3K to get the bike I would like to have. I rode a 2:32 half and 5:30 ironman, so I think the bike is fine. Get a carbon fork and some decent wheels and ride it. Retro is cool.
I was about to spend a lot of money on a tri bike, until I spent two hours with a bike fitter on a Serotta jig. It turns out I am not the most flexible (Like I didn't know that already), and trying to force myself in to a tri bike position would have resulted in a lot of pain and discomfort. So I have gone for a road bike with mini subs on for when I want to get a bit more aero. My bike has been chosen so as I improve my flexibilty I can reduce spacer height and increase stem length, making me more aero. Eventually if I get there then a new tri bike will be on the cards. So as everyone else has said get properly fitted before deciding what bike to get, no point in getting in an aero position then not been able to run due to back pain.
Tom
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