What is the best way to glue new tubular tires on new wheels?
Thanks,
Rex
Thanks,
Rex
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Re: How do you glue tubulars? [ironmanrex]
[ In reply to ]
http://www.cyclingnews.com/tech/fix/?id=tubular
All you need to know, although I'm sure some wise guy will say he's got the "best" way.
All you need to know, although I'm sure some wise guy will say he's got the "best" way.
Re: How do you glue tubulars? [ironmanrex]
[ In reply to ]
after dwelling on this topic for about 13 years as a roadie, i made the great discovery last year that changed everything...tufo glue tape. takes 10 seconds with a well-stretched tire and rolls off only when needed. don't mess with glue ever again.
Re: How do you glue tubulars? [homegrown]
[ In reply to ]
Thanks Homegrown! I've heard or read where some people leave a 1 inch gap free of glue to aid in tire removal in case of a flat. Does this mean that no glue is applied to the tire or no glue applied to wheel and tire at this 1 inch section?
Rex
Rex
Re: How do you glue tubulars? [ironmanrex]
[ In reply to ]
It's been posted before, but it's also pretty exhaustive and extensive.
www.engr.ku.edu/~ktl/bicycle/bicycle.html
'to give anything less than the best is to sacrifice the gift'...Pre
www.engr.ku.edu/~ktl/bicycle/bicycle.html
'to give anything less than the best is to sacrifice the gift'...Pre
Re: How do you glue tubulars? [ironmanrex]
[ In reply to ]
Tufo glue tape!! I've been using tubbies for 13 years.....Tufo tape is best!
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Paul
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Paul
Re: How do you glue tubulars? [ironmanrex]
[ In reply to ]
Tufo tape rules !!!
Also, A friend of mine came up w/ an easy way to get the tire on straight using the tape.
I'll post it later today if I have time.
Also, A friend of mine came up w/ an easy way to get the tire on straight using the tape.
I'll post it later today if I have time.
Re: How do you glue tubulars? [ironmanrex]
[ In reply to ]
Gluing tubulars is a very straighforward process, contrary to the absurd hyperbole commonly diseminated for whatever reason.
Why people insist on maying a smple, easy process a convoluted affair is beyond me.
However, using a postage stamp, now there is a process, and here is how to do it correctly:
1. Confirm that the envelope that the stamp is being installed on is predominantly cottom fiber paper, less than 80% recycled. do not use cellophane or microfiber envelope with conventional postage stamps, This si wrong.
2. Be certain the humidity in the room is below 90% and the barometric pressure is above 31 in. If the atmosphere is too humid or the pressure too low this may compromise the adhesive.
3. For safety's sake, allow both envelope and stamp to sit out at least 24 hours (longer is better) so that the moisture content of the paper can "stabilize". Be certain they are resting on a clean, flat, non-porous surface uncontaminated with solvents.
4. Beware of airborne particles when using a postage stamp: Airborne particles can become fixed in the pastage stamp adhesive and will compromise the bond between the postage stamp and the envelope.
5. Once you have confirmed that conditions are favorable for affixing the stamp to the envelope, that the paper content of the envelope is appropriate and compatible, and the envrionmental conditions are acceptable it is time to proceed.
6. Stop: WARNING- If the stamp is substantially "bowed" or warped you must either discard this stamp (Federal Postal Regulations may allow you to exchange this stamp for one without "camber" or excessive "bowing" at an authorized Government Postal Facility, however, destruction of postage stamps may conflict with Federal laws). Be certain to start with a flat stamp with no excess "arc" or bow.
7. Before removing the protective backing re-confirm your environmental conditions and that the temperature is 68-72 degrees fahrenheit. It is best to wear gloves, safety glasses and old clothing. Do not affix stamps over carpeting.
8. Using your finger nail (do not use pointed tools- they may damage the stamp) remove the adhesive backing from the upper left hand corner in a "peeling" motion toward the lower right hand corner. At this point, of course, the stamp will be inverted on the flat, clean, non-absorbent surface (I recommend a smooth stainless steel surface).
9. Immediately discard the backing material in a sealed top trash recepticle. Take care that the top of the container is closed, so that pets cannot accidentally consume the wax paper backing.
10. Proceed with caution here: The back of the stamp s "live" and the adhesive is active at this point. It is now or never at this stage.
11. Carefully pick up the stamp using the smallest grip area possible since the area you grip will be contaminated. Stamp collectors recommend handling archival stamps only with tonges or tweezers. If you do use tools to handle your stamp- take care not to tear the stamp with the tool.
12. Don't drop it!
13. Alignment is critical- the stamp must have a perfect "mirror image" alignment with a precise 2.5 millimeter exposed border of envelope on the right margin and on the top margin. do not install the stamp upside down under any circumstances, as a U.S. flag flown upside down is an International sign of distress and objectionable.
14. Experts disagree on the best technique for actually affixing the stamp. If the entire stamp is pressed onto the envelope at once, air pockets can form compromising the adhesive bond. If the stamp is gradually applied from upper left to lower right the chances of air pockets forming is reduced.
15. Once the stamp is down you may use a soft object to "tamp" the stamp onto the envelope surface, "locking" the envelope's paper fibers into the adhesive.
16. Allow the stamp and envelope to sit in a warm, dry, environment on a flat non-absorbent surface for 24 hours before mailing.
17. Be certain you follow this protocol exactly. If a stamp falls off in transit, your letter will not arrive. Millions of dollars worth of mail are lost each year in the United States becasue people fail to follow this simple, easy tehcnique for affixing stamps.
There, when you glue a tubular you just make sure the rim is pretty clean, put some glue on the rim, maybe let it set up for ten minutes then stretch the tire on. let it dry for 12 hours and you are ready.
Putting a postage stamp on, that is a different matter altogether.
Tom Demerly
The Tri Shop.com
Why people insist on maying a smple, easy process a convoluted affair is beyond me.
However, using a postage stamp, now there is a process, and here is how to do it correctly:
1. Confirm that the envelope that the stamp is being installed on is predominantly cottom fiber paper, less than 80% recycled. do not use cellophane or microfiber envelope with conventional postage stamps, This si wrong.
2. Be certain the humidity in the room is below 90% and the barometric pressure is above 31 in. If the atmosphere is too humid or the pressure too low this may compromise the adhesive.
3. For safety's sake, allow both envelope and stamp to sit out at least 24 hours (longer is better) so that the moisture content of the paper can "stabilize". Be certain they are resting on a clean, flat, non-porous surface uncontaminated with solvents.
4. Beware of airborne particles when using a postage stamp: Airborne particles can become fixed in the pastage stamp adhesive and will compromise the bond between the postage stamp and the envelope.
5. Once you have confirmed that conditions are favorable for affixing the stamp to the envelope, that the paper content of the envelope is appropriate and compatible, and the envrionmental conditions are acceptable it is time to proceed.
6. Stop: WARNING- If the stamp is substantially "bowed" or warped you must either discard this stamp (Federal Postal Regulations may allow you to exchange this stamp for one without "camber" or excessive "bowing" at an authorized Government Postal Facility, however, destruction of postage stamps may conflict with Federal laws). Be certain to start with a flat stamp with no excess "arc" or bow.
7. Before removing the protective backing re-confirm your environmental conditions and that the temperature is 68-72 degrees fahrenheit. It is best to wear gloves, safety glasses and old clothing. Do not affix stamps over carpeting.
8. Using your finger nail (do not use pointed tools- they may damage the stamp) remove the adhesive backing from the upper left hand corner in a "peeling" motion toward the lower right hand corner. At this point, of course, the stamp will be inverted on the flat, clean, non-absorbent surface (I recommend a smooth stainless steel surface).
9. Immediately discard the backing material in a sealed top trash recepticle. Take care that the top of the container is closed, so that pets cannot accidentally consume the wax paper backing.
10. Proceed with caution here: The back of the stamp s "live" and the adhesive is active at this point. It is now or never at this stage.
11. Carefully pick up the stamp using the smallest grip area possible since the area you grip will be contaminated. Stamp collectors recommend handling archival stamps only with tonges or tweezers. If you do use tools to handle your stamp- take care not to tear the stamp with the tool.
12. Don't drop it!
13. Alignment is critical- the stamp must have a perfect "mirror image" alignment with a precise 2.5 millimeter exposed border of envelope on the right margin and on the top margin. do not install the stamp upside down under any circumstances, as a U.S. flag flown upside down is an International sign of distress and objectionable.
14. Experts disagree on the best technique for actually affixing the stamp. If the entire stamp is pressed onto the envelope at once, air pockets can form compromising the adhesive bond. If the stamp is gradually applied from upper left to lower right the chances of air pockets forming is reduced.
15. Once the stamp is down you may use a soft object to "tamp" the stamp onto the envelope surface, "locking" the envelope's paper fibers into the adhesive.
16. Allow the stamp and envelope to sit in a warm, dry, environment on a flat non-absorbent surface for 24 hours before mailing.
17. Be certain you follow this protocol exactly. If a stamp falls off in transit, your letter will not arrive. Millions of dollars worth of mail are lost each year in the United States becasue people fail to follow this simple, easy tehcnique for affixing stamps.
There, when you glue a tubular you just make sure the rim is pretty clean, put some glue on the rim, maybe let it set up for ten minutes then stretch the tire on. let it dry for 12 hours and you are ready.
Putting a postage stamp on, that is a different matter altogether.
Tom Demerly
The Tri Shop.com
Re: How do you glue tubulars? [Tom Demerly]
[ In reply to ]
Tom D,
how do you remove old glue from carbon rims?
Can solvents really damage the carbon fibre matrix?
Thanks!
how do you remove old glue from carbon rims?
Can solvents really damage the carbon fibre matrix?
Thanks!
Re: How do you glue tubulars? [fkugler]
[ In reply to ]
That's a smart question.
In general, you do not remove old glue. You simply apply the same glue over it again.
If there is an enormous residue you can scrap it off with a butter knife, then put fresh glue on.
Don't use solvents- you don't need them and you're right, they are probably not good for the wheels, you or the environment.
If there is a layer of glue on there that is fine. Glue right over the top of it. The new glue may actually "activate" the old under pressure.
It really is very simple.
Tom Demerly
The Tri Shop.com
In general, you do not remove old glue. You simply apply the same glue over it again.
If there is an enormous residue you can scrap it off with a butter knife, then put fresh glue on.
Don't use solvents- you don't need them and you're right, they are probably not good for the wheels, you or the environment.
If there is a layer of glue on there that is fine. Glue right over the top of it. The new glue may actually "activate" the old under pressure.
It really is very simple.
Tom Demerly
The Tri Shop.com
Ok, I read about this "butter knife method". I thought perhaps the butter knife can do more harm to the carbon rim than some solvent, but I'll try it.