I don't know what brake come on the P2k, but I put Cane Creek's BRS200sl brakes on my racing bike. They are silly light sigle pivot brakes. I also have Syntace Space Control levers on a Syntace base bar. The center pull levers with internal routing through the base bar lets the cable more pretty freely so I have good response from the brakes. It's relatively flat here in Michigan so ultimate braking power isn't an issue. They definitly don't have the stopping power of my DA dual pivots and STI levers of my road bike, but for tris it isn't an issue at all. I use the running dismount when racing so I don't have to slow down all that much anyway. ;-) If you are going to use the bike for all kinds of riding, big groups, etc. You may want the superior stopping power of dual pivots. If it is a dedicated race bike, and you want some crazy light and trick looking brakes, the Cane Creeks are the way to go. Bru also makes a similar brake.

As for other upgrades, I would really recommend the Syntace brake levers on the Syntace base bar. They are a much higher quality lever then the 188s on most bikes. The internal routing is much cleaner looking and smoother running. I have FSA carbon cranks on my bike. Tom D. has tested cranks and says they are all very high quality and very similar, but the FSAs look sweet. I want to get the FSA or Shimano TT rings to go with the cranks. I also put an USE Alien carbon seatpost on. Again silly light and trick looking. What does it all mean as far as performance, probably not much (except for the levers). It makes my bike 'mine', and adds some style. Of course I have contemplated getting the ti bolts for my Syntace C2s, almost $2 a gram. ;-)

Changing out the saddle is a good idea, and the Azoto may be the first one to try. Be sure your crank length is correct on the bike you get, as well as stem and aerobar selection. If you live in the flats and the bike is spec'd with an 11-23 get rid of that and get an 11-21. Personally, I like the Syntace Stratos base bars better than the base bar on the bike. I also like the inward bend at the tip of Syntace C-2s as opposed to the Syntace Streamliners that come on it. Be sure you are precisely positioned on the bike and it is checklisted thoroughly before you leave. P2Ks are solid bikes. Enjoy it!

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Tom Demerly
The Tri Shop.com

You can really go nuts if you want to but IMO the P2K is not bad in standard spec. The first thing I'd look at is aero wheels, maybe a Renn disc or Hed Deep for the back and a Hed tri spoke or Jet 60 for the front. You can replace the bullhorns with one of the Vision Tech/Hed/Oval/Profile one piece units for a bit of further aero improvement. All it takes is more money. The bike may not have come spec'd with Campy Record but IMO, the brakes/groupo are fine as it came.

First of all, nice choice....great ride. Make sure whoever you buy it from really knows how to fit you. Check Slowman's fit information here, as well as his recent P2K review and previous postings here on the subject.

I did the following upgrades on my 02 P2k: Traded in Ritcheys for Velocity wheels (for training purposes) which I think are much better. I race on Zipps which I just bought this year. Upgraded saddle, bars, and went with Shimano shifters (cool factor only). I didn't upgrade to Shimano brakes but may do this as well. Gerard swears their brakes work as good however I respectfully disagree and will eventually upgrade (but this isn't by any means a necessity). The only other upgrade you can really do other than above is to go with the composite Cervelo carbon seatpost which I think is $175 bucks extra.

Finally, I will finally get around to changing out the bright blue bar tape as well this year back to basic black!

I just bought a P2K, run standard spec except for: Saddle, aero bars (to C2), and wheels (Alex 320Tri) The LBS also recommended changing the brakes, I did not bother but I concur with other posters that it might not be a bad idea to change them out for a pair of Ultegra, but who needs Brakes anyway!!!

LBS also recommended changing the aerobar (I had a pair of C2 anyway so no problem there). The LBS was very forcefull concerning the wheels, he did not like the Ritchey purely from a selfish point of view as he did not want to have to fix them too often. I would love to have a pair of race wheels but I strongly suspect this current set up will race just fine for a few years.

As I have said before on various post, this some bike, after the first ride my wife, who also races IM, would not talk to me as I was so far ahead. We have been really close on training rides when I rode my Trek 5500 (she rides a QR 2002 PR) until that fateful day. Got it set up on the trainer right now and will be on it at lunch.

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Simple Simon
Where's the Fried Chicken??

I've been questioning if the cranks on my wife's bike are too long for her. She complains when climbing at lower rpm's that it feels like she may not be able to get the crank up and over the top. i've never known the right way to calculate the crank arm length, or what points on the leg to measure from.

Beware of anybody able to answer THIS question, as I haven't seen any data with conclusive evidence. The best research I've seen indicates that while efficiency greatly differs when crank lengths are changed for a rider, there is no correlation between optimal crank length and body measurements. Meaning that while length A may be vastly superior to length B for you, there is nothing on your bocy I can measure that would tell me A is better. I can only find out by testing you on both. And at the same time, somebody with the same body measurements as you may be better off with length B.

Maybe Andrew Coggan has some more recent research, but this is the best I could find.

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Gerard Vroomen
3T.bike
OPEN cycle