Moral of the story: sometimes the people who work "where you got it" (bike shops) are not necessarily the big experts (sometimes they are downright clueless--I have had some amazing experiences in this department, even at "reputable" tri shops). Not that I am the last word either, but I have been riding/racing for 25+ years and I've picked up a few pointers along the way.
Try not to use simple green on the chain--you dont want it inside the links. I do use it sometimes on the bike (frame, wheels, cassette, etc.), but I do my best to keep it out of the chain. The 'gunk' on the chain can be wiped off before and after lubing. A PERFECTLY clean chain (like brand new) doesnt really get you anything unless you are an order and cleanliness freak. Get it pretty clean and well lubed (inside especially) and you will go as fast as it was when it was brand new.
About rain, this is what I do. (While you ride, dont worrry too much. Continuous water is its own suprisingly good lubricant.) After the ride, you can lube it immediately, but I wait until after the water dries out (the bike is usually indoors during the dry out time), and THEN I lube it. The lube gets in better when the chain is dry (capillary action and all). The trivial amount of rust disapears immediately. However, do not ride the bike with a rusty and/or squeaky chain because then you are wearing it out real fast (and wasting a fair amount of drivetrain energy).
Side note: I have not used the SRAM and other brands of "superlinks" since I have heard from many folks more experienced than myself over decades that they are problem plagued for riders that push hard on the pedals. They fail all the time (and at the worst times). A complete riveted chain is the best bet. Put it on once. Take it off when it stretches and toss it. Chain stretch can be verified by exact measurement, no need to throw it away "every so many miles". Chain wear varies VASTLY depending on milage, rider size, rider strength, rider gearing, amount of climbing, chain cleanliness, etc. Save your money and replace them when they need replacement.
Any less confused?
Where would you want to swim ?
Try not to use simple green on the chain--you dont want it inside the links. I do use it sometimes on the bike (frame, wheels, cassette, etc.), but I do my best to keep it out of the chain. The 'gunk' on the chain can be wiped off before and after lubing. A PERFECTLY clean chain (like brand new) doesnt really get you anything unless you are an order and cleanliness freak. Get it pretty clean and well lubed (inside especially) and you will go as fast as it was when it was brand new.
About rain, this is what I do. (While you ride, dont worrry too much. Continuous water is its own suprisingly good lubricant.) After the ride, you can lube it immediately, but I wait until after the water dries out (the bike is usually indoors during the dry out time), and THEN I lube it. The lube gets in better when the chain is dry (capillary action and all). The trivial amount of rust disapears immediately. However, do not ride the bike with a rusty and/or squeaky chain because then you are wearing it out real fast (and wasting a fair amount of drivetrain energy).
Side note: I have not used the SRAM and other brands of "superlinks" since I have heard from many folks more experienced than myself over decades that they are problem plagued for riders that push hard on the pedals. They fail all the time (and at the worst times). A complete riveted chain is the best bet. Put it on once. Take it off when it stretches and toss it. Chain stretch can be verified by exact measurement, no need to throw it away "every so many miles". Chain wear varies VASTLY depending on milage, rider size, rider strength, rider gearing, amount of climbing, chain cleanliness, etc. Save your money and replace them when they need replacement.
Any less confused?
Where would you want to swim ?