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"your horse is too high" - tigerchik

Fine toothed saw.

Why cut it? Are you needing to save weight? Do you really think the 30 grams are the difference in the race?

A brand new fine tooth hacksaw blade , or find a tile guy / wet saw , I think home depot has an in store saw to use, that would be the cleanest.

thanks - found an easton article on the web that says tape it and use a fine tooth saw

need to cut it to fit it down into my seattube - the seattube narrows where it is carbon wrapped, so the long seatpost won't fit all the way down

not worried about the weight - otherwise I wouldn't have had beer and pizza tonight for dinner

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kangaroo -- please do not read or respond to any of my posts

also, don't lube it or it can slide all the way down

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�The greater danger for most of us is not that our aim is too high and we miss it, but that it is too low and we reach it.� -Michelangelo

MoodBoost Drink : Mood Support + Energy.

When I cut Carbon, I like to use a steel hose clamp you can pick up from any hardware store, this provides a nice straight cutting guide so your cut won't be on an angle, lookin like a 3rd grader cut it. Obviously don't tighten the clamp to tight. This also works well for steerer tubes if you don't own a Park cutting guide. It also helps if can get the post in a vise wrapped with a rag so you have sturdy area to cut on. One last tip, cut lightly, use lots of light strokes (i know that sounds funny), don't force the cut. I beleive a 32 tooth per inch blade is recommended.

They make a exacto blade saw, would work on a round post . Find a wood shop use the band saw, all the pressure is one way.

"Find a wood shop use the band saw, all the pressure is one way. "

God, no, don't do this unless you want to see little pieces of seatpost flying all over the shop.

I could tell you all about tooth profiles and TPI, and blade composition, but suffice to say that a woodworking bandsaw is just about the last thing you want to use for this operation - and this is coming from someone who spends about 30 hours a week using one.

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Tech writer/support on this here site. FIST school instructor and certified bike fitter. Formerly at Diamondback Bikes, LeMond Fitness, FSA, TiCycles, etc.
Coaching and bike fit - http://source-e.net/ Cyclocross blog - https://crosssports.net/ BJJ instruction - https://ballardbjj.com/

Unless its some paper thin potato chip structure, It will cut "Like butta " . I have cut carbon fiber bars / fork steer tubes -- not a problem. Sure a finer toothed saw would be better and what I use . Sounds to me like an operator error problem ............ 25 yrs aircraft tech.

"Operator error!" Watch who you call out there. :0) There literally isn't another company offering the level of precision band saw work (on wood) as the folks I work for. It's pretty much the only reason we stay in business - no one else can do what we do. Typical job spec is rosewood strips cut 36"x.065x.25, bandsawed dimension is .065, allowable variance of .003, plus only, with no visible saw marks. Lot of 1k pieces (that's what I did part of Friday afternoon.) Our ex-aircraft tech employee wasn't allowed in the mill room - we kept him at the lathe and the Bridgeport, where he belonged :0)

I stand by what I said: and, by the way, I have seen several steer tubes blown apart from doing just what you recommend, back in my bike industry days. Note that these catastrophes were not covered by warranty.

You can probably get away with cutting a carbon tube on a woodshop bandsaw, but It's the wrong tool for the job, and it's bad advice - heck, you don't do it yourself, why recommend it?

Have you happened to look at, for example, a Record seat post? "Potato chip structure" is actually a pretty good description.

34.5"x.040x.1, bandsawed dimension .040, +.003 variance, 5 rejects out of 400.

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Tech writer/support on this here site. FIST school instructor and certified bike fitter. Formerly at Diamondback Bikes, LeMond Fitness, FSA, TiCycles, etc.
Coaching and bike fit - http://source-e.net/ Cyclocross blog - https://crosssports.net/ BJJ instruction - https://ballardbjj.com/

I bow to your awesome skill , You need to get out from behind the lexan window at the CNC controls , and smell the carbon fiber dust. I have cut thousands of piece of thin cylindrical carbon fiber / glass , nothing ever has "blown apart ". We live in different worlds of TPI and band speed , I doubt his seat post needs to be cut to .00004 of an inch , I like to keep the chips under the machinery, Not on my shoulder. Best of luck in the lumber business.

So - dude- familiar with emoticons?

:0) = "not to be taken seriously."

- lighten up.

The different worlds line is perfectly on target. My shop does a fair bit of carbon work (although mostly on the lasers.) We wouldn't blow up a seatpost. You wouldn't either. This isn't reflective of your average woodshop, with a dull skip-tooth blade on the crappy delta that has been cutting fibreboard for a month. They would. Seen it happen.

Carbon and glass are super easy to cut. .oooo4 in metal or carbon is like .04 in wood. It's straight, and it don't move on ya. The stuff we cut with a bandsaw comes out to a tighter tolerance than our competitors manage on the nc.

Nice line about the "lumber business." Tell it to all the laid-off airplane folks up here in Seattle. They aren't nearly as condescending - we have a pile of their job apps in the office :0)

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Tech writer/support on this here site. FIST school instructor and certified bike fitter. Formerly at Diamondback Bikes, LeMond Fitness, FSA, TiCycles, etc.
Coaching and bike fit - http://source-e.net/ Cyclocross blog - https://crosssports.net/ BJJ instruction - https://ballardbjj.com/

Use a 32 tooth hacksaw blade and when you get close through turn it over and cut the remainder from the opposite side to avoid pulling the fibers on the last bit.

Also it's best to wet it while cutting. Inhaling the very fine carbon/epoxy particles is probably not ideal training preparation.