Officially no, but it's been done. I'll let Carl elaborate if he'd like, but the frame predates the battery, so obviously the frame is not designed to house the battery.


No, the e-tube stuff is not backward compatible with 7900.

Hi Pun1sher

some people have shoved them into the seatpost. the inside of the post is not a controlled surface (i.e. not molded to any particular tolerance), so it may work for some and not for others. might not get it in. might go in but be loose enough to fall out. no way to know for sure.

others have covered the non-compatibility of the wiring.

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Carl Matson

I don't know how long there will be warranty stock of those posts. I imagine the rate of warranty returns/claims would enter into the decision, but I don't know for sure. You're probably better off to ask the customer service folks about that one, since they're closer to the warranty part of the business than I am.

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Carl Matson

Can someone get me the part number for the long bolts that go through the aerobar riser spacers and through the base bar? I stripped one of mine. Thanks!

420693 Riser Bolt Kit

if you're only replacing one or two bolts then you only need one of these kits...as it contains a complete set for one side of the bar.

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Carl Matson

Can u get just one or two bolts?

It's up to a dealer whether or not they want to break out parts of a kit separately.

Alternatively, if you know the length you need, you could try finding some at the hardware store yourself...M6 x [whatever length you're replacing], stainless steel.

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Carl Matson

Carl,

Can you please give me the replacement part number for the screws that attach the pad holders to the P clamp? Thanks.

420488 Aero Pad Holder & Bolts kit. those are M4x10mm (stainless steel) if you wanted to try sourcing them separately.

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Carl Matson

Thanks Carl. What size are the bolts that secure the P clamp to the aerobars and the aerobars to the base bar? It looks like they are all the same size.

talking about these? (if so, includes answer)

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Carl Matson

Those are the ones. Thanks!

Carl, I need a new rear mech hanger for my 2012 SC9. The shop says they have a 2011 Madone/SC hanger. Can you just confirm that all SCs have always used the same mech hanger?

Hi Steve-

They have not always had the same hanger. Couple of running changes across the 3yrs of production. The part #s are stamped into the hanger, so check the PN on your old hanger:

• If you had 295979 you need W303978 and new bolts W304100.
• If you already had 303978 all you need is the direct replacement W303978...no need for new bolts unless they were damaged.
• If you had 311263, replacement is W311263 and again no need for new bolts unless damaged, in which case the replacement bolt PN is W318604

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Carl Matson

Wow, good job I asked! Thanks Carl.

Carl,

Recently my stem has been working itself loose (2011 Speed Conept 9.9) after about 10-15 miles of riding (shorter on rough roads). I have removed the cover and have tightened the stem per specifications, however, it has it keeps working itself loose. I will betaking my bike back to the shop later today to help identify and correct the issue (It was there last week for the same cause). Suggestions on what the cause maybe and scope of repairs required?

I purchased the bike new in April of 2011 and have zero problems until now.

Thanks,

Colin

I'd have then inspect the area around the stem's pinch band, where it grabs the preload nut. If that's damaged, it would require a new stem. It would also be a good idea to verify you have the 2nd generation preload nut, which is anodized black vs the silver appearance of the original design. That's PN w315072 if you need the new one.

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Carl Matson

Thank you Carl. I do indeed have the pre-load nut that is silver in appearance. I will let you know what we find out

Two things...

Awhile back I asked if I could run a set of FSA cranks on a SC. You told me there were interference problems with some FSA crank sets, but also pointed me to a BB90 bearing kit FSA makes. What appears to be the case is that the current-gen (2011 and newer) carbon crank sets from FSA *will* work on the SC, in combination with the BB90 specific ceramic bearings they also make (or at least made) My Trek shop was able to do he install, although I haven't ridden them yet.

Meanwhile the Trek wrenches advised me NOT to stuff my di2 junction box into the 60/45 stem, despite it fitting just fine. They expressed a concern that it, and/or the wires, would be damaged over time, presumably by the brake cable housings. This was certainly news to me, and I thought it was typical to store that front junction in the stem whenever possible. What's your advice?

Thanks for the update on the FSA cranks.

SC 9 series drivers who want the cleanest look possible often hide that junction box inside their stem, at the expense of not having immediate access to the trim and battery adjustment features. I can understand your shop's concern, because regardless of whether or not it fits, it was designed for external mounting, not internal storage per se. In the end you're the customer and have to decide whether the risk outweighs the reward. I don't blame them for looking out for you on the risk side.

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Carl Matson

Thanks Carl. I'll weigh some options and see what looks like the best solution. One suggestion they made was to house the junction inside the speed box. I've got the DarkSpeedWorks version, which is not plastic like the Trek one, but nylon (I suspect). Should be simple to cut a little hole in the front of it for the wires to run through. That would preclude using the rubber cap thingy, which I suppose is no big deal.

That did get me thinking though -- have you considered designing a speed box with a shroud off the front that covers that space between the box and the stem normally covered by the rubber cap?

For the previous bike, no. For the new one, kind of...we eliminated the rubber bit altogether and used the toptube surface in that area to define the lower surface of the new speedbox.

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Carl Matson

I searched for this question/answer, but didn't find it.

2012 SC 7.0. Just replaced my base bar and reran the brake cables, and have one minor issue with the rear brake. I hate to use technical terms here...

The little triangle cable clamp thing isn't playing well with one of the brake arm things anymore. The brakes will work okay for a while, but then one side will get stuck closed--the arm is getting stuck, not pushing the triangle clamp thing back into place to allow the brake to fully open up again. Stop, reach down, give the brake a little tug, and it pops back into place.

Does that make sense? The two spring-loaded arms that push the triangular cable clamp back into place aren't always completely pushing it back into place.

I didn't adjust the brakes at all, just unclamped and then reclamped the cable. Thoughts?

hi brotherbock

most common cause for these symptoms can be seen in the top picture here. if the flange on that nut is facing up after you put it all back together, it'll interfere with the brake booster. it needs to be facing down (flange fits inside a counterbore on the wedge) so what you see is a smooth nut face, as in the pictures here.

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Carl Matson

Doh, I think that may be it. Will reconfirm when I get a chance to poke back in there. But I think I remember having it what you've shown as the right way, and then second-guessing myself and reversing it.

Thanks very much for the fast help (on a Sunday!), will get back with results.

LOVE my bike, great job to all you folks.