So after much deliberations it's down to two bikes, neither of which I can ride before hand. The Focus Mares AX 1.0 and the aluminum Niner RLT9 (built from a frameset to similar spec as the Focus). I'm looking at 56 in both... how big a difference is that half degree difference in seat/head tube angles and extra 1cm of chain stay and 15mm of wheelbase going to affect handling?

On tighter trails, I find my Kona Jake the Snake tends to push wide... It has the Mares short stays and wheelbase but the RLT9's slacker angles so if I want a more nimble bike go with the Focus and if I want more stable go with the Niner?

Just sold my 6" FS bike and am going to replace it with some especially meant for the many logging roads of southern Vancouver Island. They're rough, steep, and never ending.

My original plan was to get a 2/3x10 hard tail 29er, but perhaps a 27.5 HT (I'm 6'1, so 29er size isnt a big issue) or even a cross bike with a mountain bike drivetrain would be better?

There are starting to be more and more options in this space, but this sounds like you need something a bit burlier than is "normal" for gravel roads.

Last year I test road the new Raleigh Tamland, and I was very impressed with this rig. I've run a lot on the logging roads out west, so I know the terrain, and the Tamland would be a good option.

http://stevefleck.blogspot.ca/...road-less-taken.html

Hope this helps.

I think the biggest part of the challenge is understanding what kind of surfaces you will be riding on. From my very limited experiences the quality of logging and forest service roads around here varies quite a bit, even mile to mile on the same road. For the most part things can be managed on a CX bike, but with a hardtail and much larger tires you don't have to spend as much time thinking about where you are pointed going up rough/loose climbs. A shock is also nice, but not needed. I prefer the CX bike myself since there is generally at least some road riding involved to get to where I am going and riding an mtb on the road is, well, miserable.

Regardless of which route you go, I would highly recommend going with very low gearing (34x32 or lower). As you said, these roads will drag on forever (30+ minute climbs are not unusual) and doing them at a cadence of 55 gets to be a drag after awhile.

Likewise with the brakes, hydraulic discs are probably for the best if they fit in your price point. Not for power but for ease of use. You want something that will not be super tiring on your hands as you try to maintain control doing down rough/washboarded -15-20% roads. I ride with mini-V's myself and don't lack for power but hand fatigue can be an issue for me on long descents.

OldnFat wrote:

This post nails it. There is a huge difference between unpaved farm road, and a logging road, yet both fit in the 'gravel' genre.

Along with the length of climbs, the grade and surface are factors. A hardtail 29er, maybe even with a rigid fork will work well on logging roads. The cross/road bike set ups frequently don't have low enough gearing for extended logging road climbing. Hydro discs are the best things since multiple gears.

OP, if you like challenging mixed surface rides, check out the Vicious Cycle Gran Fondo series in WA state.

For smoother condition races, I'll use 32mm slicks, a little rougher then the 38mm tires are used, and if it's really rough, then I'll use my 650b wheels with 42mm tires.

My favourite setup is actually the 650b wheels with 42mm tires. The ride height of the wheels are the same as a 700c wheel with 25mm tires. The handling is quick and nimble more like my road bike in this setup - and you get the bonus of the high volume.

The 650b setup is of interest to me. I assume the trick is to run somewhat wide tires on a somewhat narrow rim? What sort of tires? I was thinking of the Schwalbe Super Moto X on maybe a 19mm (inner) rim. Let's say my riding split is 60/40 rough roads to gravel.

This is the rig I used for much of the 2014 UltraCX series and gnarly terrain - Lynskey Monster CX.