There are starting to be more and more options in this space, but this sounds like you need something a bit burlier than is "normal" for gravel roads.

Last year I test road the new Raleigh Tamland, and I was very impressed with this rig. I've run a lot on the logging roads out west, so I know the terrain, and the Tamland would be a good option.

http://stevefleck.blogspot.ca/...road-less-taken.html

Hope this helps.

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Steve Fleck @stevefleck | Blog

I think the biggest part of the challenge is understanding what kind of surfaces you will be riding on. From my very limited experiences the quality of logging and forest service roads around here varies quite a bit, even mile to mile on the same road. For the most part things can be managed on a CX bike, but with a hardtail and much larger tires you don't have to spend as much time thinking about where you are pointed going up rough/loose climbs. A shock is also nice, but not needed. I prefer the CX bike myself since there is generally at least some road riding involved to get to where I am going and riding an mtb on the road is, well, miserable.

Regardless of which route you go, I would highly recommend going with very low gearing (34x32 or lower). As you said, these roads will drag on forever (30+ minute climbs are not unusual) and doing them at a cadence of 55 gets to be a drag after awhile.

Likewise with the brakes, hydraulic discs are probably for the best if they fit in your price point. Not for power but for ease of use. You want something that will not be super tiring on your hands as you try to maintain control doing down rough/washboarded -15-20% roads. I ride with mini-V's myself and don't lack for power but hand fatigue can be an issue for me on long descents.

Fully rigid carbon hardtail mtb. (Niner Air 9 RDO. With both rigid/susp forks and second wheelset, it's one of the most versatile bikes I've ever owned.)

The Open U.P. is super versitile. But maybe a bit pricey.
http://www.opencycle.com/blogs/article/introducing-up

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Jimmy Archer

I have a Tamland. It's a great bike although I replaced the 50t chainring with a 44 or 46 I think which made it more gravel worthy. It could use a nicer fork and i've considered replacing it with a carbon thru-axle fork. You should look at the Salsa Fargo too. It's kind of a do-all travel bike and i waffled between the two, but i was turned off by the Fargo not having fender/rack eyelets. As Steve said, there are a lot of options out there. The Santa Cruz Stigmata is particularly drool-worthy. Also Niner RLT.

Cross bike would be my choice.

Here you go. A nice gravel eater with 700C wheels, 2.1" wide tires, 80mm of front suspension, and a road drive train. I based it on a closeout 29er frame.

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Advanced Aero TopTube Storage for Road, Gravel, & Tri...ZeroSlip & Direct-mount, made in the USA.
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Not sure if it's "perfect", but right now I'm riding this more than any of my other bikes - Specialized Tricross Elite Disc.



Got 28mm small square-block tires on it currently and it's a blast on paved roads and packed dirt. Had 40mm mountain bike-style knobbies on it over the winter and it worked really well for trails and paved/dirt/gravel road riding. Got a set of studded 35mms ready to throw on it for next winter's ice/snow rides.

My new Surly Straggler. Thing is a TANK. Fits tires beyond 45mm wide. I've got some 35mm Clements on there getting ready for a gravel race. Also, it's a 1x10 SRAM road/mtn goup mix with a 44 in the front and 11-36 in the back.

My only question would be why are you asking a bunch of triathletes about riding off pavement? :-)

Seriously, you might want to check out the forum at RidingGravel.com or some of the content at Gravelcyclist.com or the Gravel section at Cyclocross Magazine

Lots of good info there on bikes, tire, gearing, etc selection for forst road riding, gravel racing, ultracross racing etc

For me, I have not ridden my MTB or my Tribike, since I got my Litespeed T5G (gravel) last year. And I ride mostly Forest Service Roads here in TN and Western NC and it has been perfect for me.

http://www.litespeed.com/...asp?content=T5G-2015

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Tim Anderson
"It's the nature of the internets that you get some dweeb who knows nothing about (insert topic here) pontificates about (topic), believing that his/her opinion is worth the same as opinions from those who actually knows what's going on." --Echappist

 


I just went through the process of buying a gravel bike. I have a CX bike I'm selling since I don't do CX races. The key issue is tire clearance. There are two bikes that made my final cut (both are considered 'endurance bikes'):

http://www.jensonusa.com/Jamis-Xenith-Endura-Elite-Di2-Bike-2013


The issue with this bike was caliber brakes and 10sp. Not really drawbacks for me but all advice I got was disc and 11sp *shrug* The bike website says it will clear 30, which is PERFECT for gravel grinding (my gravel roads are your a-typical dirt roads. Nothing major). I was just about to pull the trigger on this when I stumbled upon this bike:


http://www.jensonusa.com/Orbea-Avant-M30-Disc-Bike-2014


This bike not only has disc brakes but also the ability to add regular road brakes. Thus I can put on my Flo 60s for the Gran Fondo's I like to do. The bike also has 11sp Ultegra. The bike does clear 28mm tires but some online say it will fit 30mm. Either way, both sizes are great for gravel.


My third option was Specialized Roubaix but the price points were too high. This is the bike was professionally fitted on so I knew it fit and the Jamis geometry almost mimics Spesh (generally speaking). Orbea stack and reach fit in my parameters as well. It will be more aggressive than my CX bike I think, but I also ran my CX with short stem.


Good luck with your search. It's a tough niche to find to the perfect bike. I think I did with the Orbea and if it truly does fit 30mm tires I will be EXTREMELY happy. :)

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The curious task of economics is to demonstrate to men how little they really know about what they imagine they can design.

I've ridden a lot of these roads on my Kona Jake the Snake with cantis and descending was brutal on my hands and nerves. Big tubeless tires and hydraulic brakes should fix most of that.


I'm really liking the Focus Mares AX 1.0. SRAM hydraulics, a geometry that should be easy on my back, and the price point is very reasonable at somewhere around $2500CAD. Swap out the crank with a SRAM 42-28 (or even 39-26) and put a dinner plate on the back and I'll be able to climb 10% grades at 80-90 rpm and stay under threshold.

Now, how big of tires will it fit and can I tow my Voyager bike trailer with the QR thru-axles... guess I'll be talking to my local Focus dealer.

Is hand fatigue a canti thing? I have mini-V brakes on my CX bike, they´re easy to set up, stop well and don´t wear out my finger grip. Obviously I got the cheapest ones around (Tektro RX3) but they work beautifully, particularly since I realized they don´t need toe-in.

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´Get the most aero and light bike you can get. With the aero advantage you can be saving minutes and with the weight advantage you can be saving seconds. In a race against the clock both matter.´

BMANX

I have an old titanium Merlin mountain bike I use, but I really like slowman's bike here: http://www.slowtwitch.com/...ed_Freedom_4520.html

The production "successor" to Dan's custom is the Litespeed T5G. Love mine.

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Tim Anderson
"It's the nature of the internets that you get some dweeb who knows nothing about (insert topic here) pontificates about (topic), believing that his/her opinion is worth the same as opinions from those who actually knows what's going on." --Echappist

I wish I had a Litespeed budget but Ti is going to have to wait until after my 18 month old is finished college.


Another option for others looking for the same kind of bike:

http://www.trekbikes.com/...oad/touring/920/920/

Reminds me of the Salsa Vaya...another basically drop bar 29er touring bike. If no money for Ti, why not steel? Is weight that much of a concern? Lots of cool bikes out there beyond the tank-like Surleys. All City, Soma, Salsa. Even a lemond poprad disc if you can find one still. I rode gravel on my Lemond Sarthe with 28mm commuter tires but I find that to be waaaaaay to skinny a tire for descents over rough terrain.

So after much deliberations it's down to two bikes, neither of which I can ride before hand. The Focus Mares AX 1.0 and the aluminum Niner RLT9 (built from a frameset to similar spec as the Focus). I'm looking at 56 in both... how big a difference is that half degree difference in seat/head tube angles and extra 1cm of chain stay and 15mm of wheelbase going to affect handling?

On tighter trails, I find my Kona Jake the Snake tends to push wide... It has the Mares short stays and wheelbase but the RLT9's slacker angles so if I want a more nimble bike go with the Focus and if I want more stable go with the Niner?

In principle, yes. Obviously choose based on planned usage, likes, weight, etc. (If you already own a Jake-T-S... maybe go with "more nimble" Focus.)

I've been very happy with my RLT and am contemplating buying a second frameset to build up as a singlespeed.

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"When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro."
Hunter S. Thompson

There's gravel and then there's gravel.

Every bike that I own is ridden on pavement, dirt, and gravel. If I'm going to be riding mostly pavement, I grab the one that sports 32mm tires. If the ride has more dirt and gravel, then I go for the bike with 38mm tires. And if it's really rocky/rough, I grab my 29er.

If you want specs/details, I can post 'em.

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Mark Chandler, Editor In Chief
GRAVELBIKE.com | ride everything

Actually, I'm wondering why you need a new bike ;) I know the formula, number of bikes you need = n+1, where n= the number you currently have. However, if you already have what can be a capable "gravel bike"...then why another one? I rode that blue thing I posted a little bit above on singletrack for 2 hours this past weekend. With other guys on bikes with suspension. No problem at all. Granted, they were not XC racers but still. I don't worry as much about geometry as long as the general fit is good. Handling is a matter of getting used to the machine and appropriate tires (again, as long as you're generally on the right size frame). Just watch the Road Bike Party videos. Those bikes handled just fine in very inappropriate conditions - as long as the riders knew what they were doing with them.

Hydro discs and a SRAM drivetrain... it's rather difficult to add disc bosses to a canti-frame ;)

The Kona is "for sale", but I wont loose any sleep if it stays in the quiver.

Ahhh! I sees your point now ;) You could always go with a "mullet" solution. Very nice carbon forks available with disc mounts...but in order to keep your brifters symmetrical you'd have to run mechanically actuated calipers. Anyway. My vote's still for steel as it's cheap and durable. I'm not advocating from the "compliance" perspective as I don't believe that bogus. It's. I've heard nothing but good things about Niners and know nothing about the Focus so in a choice between those two, I'd go NIner... But that's a very uninformed decision, haha. I'd say that you have enough info to make up your mind at this point!