Hi Carl,
I got BB90 bearings (Enduro MR2437) on my SC but I would like to change my crankset and go with a GXP Sram Red. I just tried to make it fit on the current BB90 bearings and they are not thick enough so the inner ring rubs the frame. Will the GXP bearings (if they exist) solve that issue ?
Also, do you know whether I can use the external DI2 cable as an internal cable in the Speed Concept (since the holes are pretty big) ?
Thanks

Try post 117 in the "lets see your speed concept" thread.

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Carl Matson

No data of our own related to bottle between the arms...which would make the rider more aero, not the bike...but also no reason to dispute their findings either. Our seattube mounting position was chosen with the bonty speed bottle in mind, so the combo you're interested in is probably a good one.

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Carl Matson

No functional difference.

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Carl Matson

Carl, checked 117 out on let's see your sc, but that was a 7 series sc with different aerobars. I am referring to the 9 series with the bontrager aerobars.
Thanks

Great, thank you Carl!

Hey Carl, one last thing (since my Eqinuox has just sold, and I can now move on joining the SC "family")!
You had suggested to me either a L frame with 100/45 stem, or an XL frame with 100/10 stem.(post #4082).
I am I correct in assuming if I put the 100/45 stem on the XL frame, it won't stretch me out, but just bring me up?
I happened across a Project One this week at a shop that came in for someone, and it was an XL frame...nice to see in real life. Doesn't appear as big as I thought it would be! Might go with that to leave more room to adjust things.
Thanks,
JKS.......will likely be ordering soon now!

I see. I vaguely remember seeing someone tried to copy the custom machined bits we did for heather jackson, but I'm afraid I don't remember which thread that was in .

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Carl Matson

correct. It will bring your bar up and just slightly back from where the 100/10 would have put you.

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Carl Matson

GXP ceramic BB90 bearing kit for an SC 9-series is PN 411814


re: Di2 external as internal, I think I tried to fit that BB junction box through our BB bore way back when and it was a no-go. I don't think it has changed dimensions since, and I know our BB bore access holes haven't.

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Carl Matson

The external Di2 wiring harness's junction box will not fit. I tried just out of curiosity on mine. You would have to remove some of the material around BB there to make it work. That would void your warranty and you still have to remove most of the plastic on the junction box.

I ended up using the 7975 internal harness. It would be much easier since the wires are designed to be disconnected. The external harness would require you to splice at wires for all of the connections (Rear Der, Front Der, Battery and Wire to Junction A). The wiring for the frame is relatively easy if you have a little patience using the 7975 internal wiring harness. The handle bar is another story though.

Anyone using a wired PT with their SC?

Carl - just wondering where I should put the wire for the least amount of impact to the frame. Better to run it under or over the top tube?

I'd run it under, to leave my toptube mounts open for a speedbox or anything else I might want up there. I'd expect any aero impact to be equal either way.

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Carl Matson

Just wondering if you think there will be much of an aero impact? Wireless just isn't in the budget at the moment, and I may not go that route if the wire is really not going to have a negative impact. But the last thing I want to do is mess up the aero features of the frame.

Thanks

no whiz-bang aero features going on in the frame shapes up along the toptube.

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Carl Matson

A non-Trek approved answer may be to run it down the downtube and out the brake cover, down the chainstay. It might take a small amount of drilling to the cover. Haven't had a PT wire and sharkfin in hand in a while but I can't see it being too tricky.

TBH, I was trying to envision something like that routing myself, but I have zero experience with the wired PT and the service manual didn't have enough info for me to judge either way. There is a drain hole in the rear brake cover already but it's pretty small. Still, if one wanted to give it a go, the hole location is forward enough that you're in the least "busy" space under the cover...but you're also in close proximity to the brake cable, so you'd want to keep things tight to the inside of the cover and perhaps approach the drain hole from the side vs straight-in from the cable exit port on the frame.

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Carl Matson

That's good - however I have a feeling that by running it along the top tube and down the back of the seat tube and then down the seat stay is going to mess with the kamfoil in a couple of places. Yes/No? I may have no choice in this, so where would be the best place to position the wire going down the seat stay to minimize messing up the whiz-bang aero features?

THANKS CARL, THAT'S WHAT I NEEDED TO HEAR! CAN'T WAIT TO MOVE AHEAD AND ORDER!
YOUR EXPERTISE HAS BEEN INVALUABLE. THANK-YOU VERY MUCH.
JKS

if anything, the back of a KVF is the perfect place to put the wire. remember, it's the "dead" air which forms the virtual foil... anything which occupies that space is all but invisible to the wind. run the wire right down the middle of a KVF trailing edge...the wind won't notice it.

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Carl Matson

Perfect - thanks Carl

Carl, this might require another non-Trek approved answer, or help from one of the aero gurus out there on this thread.

I'm considering trying a set of Tri Clips (www.tri-clips.com/) but they are really clunky on the seat stays, sort of rectangular blocks that skew the beautiful lines of my 9.5.

I'm wondering whether the seconds saved exiting T1 using the clips are negated by a possible aero penalty over 56 or 112 miles, but I have no idea whether I'm talking a few seconds or much more in that location on the bike. Seems like they'd be somewhat sheltered by my legs?

I'd appreciate any guesstimates or advice. I've had spotty results with rubber bands and the Tri Clips are easy and consistent.

Thank you,

Ole

for aero purposes...I see no upside, but can't quantify the downside either.

personally, I think they might be a nifty training tool for learning how to do a shoes-on-bike transition efficiently. sure, floss and rubber bands are cheap, but to not have to re-tie on every attempt? my 11yr old would kill for that sort of convenience. you could buy a set and re-sell them when you've got your T1 mechanics fixed.

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Carl Matson

You see that dangling little clip? That is a recipe for disaster. All it takes is for the little dangling harmless piece of plastic with a wire connected to it to swing into a spoke and voila - race over. If it does not, can you really bear listening to that clanging sound for 112 miles? Don't know about you but that will drive me daft.

Use the rubber band, better yet, don't use anything. Ironman race don't allow shoes to be clipped onto pedals. At least those that I have raced. If you really want to save seconds add 10 more miles to your workout this weekend and the weekend after and after .... until race day. That will give get you minutes and not just seconds.


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Great point, I hadn't thought about that. Thanks again Carl!
Ole