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Re: Official BMC Time Machine Owners Thread [spikey69] [ In reply to ]
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Pretty easy. Just don't have the seat clamp fall into the frame as mentioned above. Brakes are the only difficult thing about the bike
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Re: Official BMC Time Machine Owners Thread [maluminse] [ In reply to ]
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Thanks for the quick reply. The local bike shop is selling the TM 01 frame alone (all black) at US$3595. Good deal?
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Re: Official BMC Time Machine Owners Thread [spikey69] [ In reply to ]
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What year is the frame? That seems a little expensive for just the frame.
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Re: Official BMC Time Machine Owners Thread [maluminse] [ In reply to ]
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I don't know about you guys but up north in Canada, the frame alone retails for 5 500$ (full retail of course) so less than 4000 does not sound SO bad.

JD
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Re: Official BMC Time Machine Owners Thread [spikey69] [ In reply to ]
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You can find new 2012 models with ultegra for about 1000 more...I would keep looking, but if you want it, get it
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Re: Official BMC Time Machine Owners Thread [Mattjr] [ In reply to ]
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I picked mine up with ultegra and a new saddle for a touch over 4k with tax included.
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Re: Official BMC Time Machine Owners Thread [maluminse] [ In reply to ]
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Does you bike shop ship overseas? A little over $4k usd sounds really good!
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Re: Official BMC Time Machine Owners Thread [spikey69] [ In reply to ]
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Wasnt my shop, saw it online a month ago, just search around, its a good deal. $3500 for the frame is ok, but no crazy good deal, I would look for a complete bike and sell the parts you dont need
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Re: Official BMC Time Machine Owners Thread [spikey69] [ In reply to ]
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No real issues. Pedal removal is as per any normal crankset. Only difference to bikes I've travelled with in the past is the front end. Because the fork doesn't turn 90 degrees to the left or right, you need to loosen the stem in order to be able to turn the bars hard up against the frame.

Matt Harrop
http://www.matt-harroptriathlete.com
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Re: Official BMC Time Machine Owners Thread [bigd] [ In reply to ]
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bigd wrote:
Does anybody ride a size small frame, and/or pictures of one? Been trying to decide between a M-L and Small frame size.

I'm 5'7 with about a 32.75 inch inseam.

I race IM distance on a size S frame and I'm 175 cm ( 5'9"), 65 kgs (143 lbs). I love it. BMC have an online frame sizing section on their website which recommended either S or S-M for me after inputting my measurements. The guys at the shop suggested going with S which has turned out perfect.

Last edited by: jezza: Jun 15, 13 21:43
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Re: Official BMC Time Machine Owners Thread [mattharrop] [ In reply to ]
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mattharrop wrote:
A heads up for Time Machine owners - I've just got back from Cairns 70.3 and had major drama before the race. The seatpost clamp parts (two wedges, allen bolt, and washer) which sit inside the frame disappeared. I couldn't tighten the seatpost at all. Cue stressful trip to the BMC distributor and negotiating to take the parts off another Time Machine so I could race. I was very lucky that the only BMC bike in the local store happened to be a Time Machine that I could take the parts off!

When packing my bike to fly home, I discovered that the seatpost clamp parts had fallen inside the frame and become wedged in the BB area. I could see them through the hole above the brake. They were stuck and not rattling so that's why I had no idea whether they'd fallen outside the frame and got lost, or had fallen inside it.

Yes that has happened to me several times too. Feels weird turning the frame upside down shaking it to get it out. Once i lost the nut at the hottom of the seat clamp (i think it might be trapped inside the frame somewhere. i was able to huy a replacement at a local hardware store to complete my trianing camp. I now tape the whole widget in the cavity, but now I think I'll remove it in a ziplock bag, and also buy a spare to travel with just in case....
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Re: Official BMC Time Machine Owners Thread [avagoyamug] [ In reply to ]
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Yeah, very wise to have a spare I think. I've managed to extract the one lost inside my seat tube via the Di2 battery cover and so I've now got a spare!

Matt Harrop
http://www.matt-harroptriathlete.com
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Re: Official BMC Time Machine Owners Thread [fabricatedyou] [ In reply to ]
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Hi mate,

Do you have any pics of your modified brake noodle setup? Based on your advice I have purchased some flexible noodles however with the stiff GORE outer cables it is a bit of a pain to fit.

fabricatedyou wrote:
Lets talk Time Machine!!

Last season I bought and built up my TMO1 with Ultegra. I race with Bontrager Aeolus 9's. Its super clean bike although I didnt care for the aerobar setup. I set the bike fit up from my other bikes coordinates so it wasnt a fit issue. I just didnt like the look of the front end. I wanted it to be clean and it was kinda clunky looking. So after the two final races in the season, 70.3's in Weisbaden and Ireland, I changed from the stock Profile Design cockpit to a 3T Aura Pro setup. The front end on the TM01 has a ton of different combinations with the stem. My fit coordinates dicated that the stem needed to be in one of the highest sitting positions and along with the aerobars set up it added to the clunkiness I didnt like. The goal was to drop the front end and allow it to go along with the lines of the rest of the frame without messing with my fit. I knew I could get the bars down at about frame level Id just have to get the risers for the arm pads and the right extensions. I figured it all out and the fit is within a few miilimeters of where I was. The stem made it so easy! Those guys were thinking!!! While I was at it, I swopped out for some white cable housing too. Sure the only place you see it is at the front as it goes into the steertube cap/ cable organizer, and at the rear of the bike, but along with the white on the frame seat and on the 3T bar, its pretty much like money in the bank!


Clunky version


New cockpit

Now, does anyone have any questions about this bike?

I have a few issues with the brakes and really they are the only thing I have come across with it.

I am also a bike mechanic. I found that the only thing on the bike that will give you fuss while building it is the brakes. The rest is pretty straight forward. Sure the internal cables can be fussy but it wasnt bad. Whats bad about the brakes involves the cables. As with any V-brake they use a brake noodle, a TINY one. I personally think the brakes feel like garbage because of the really tight bend in the noodle. I replaced my noodles with the noodles that are flexible, I cut it to length and it changed the entire way the brakes feel. Also, when cutting the housing, you have to cut it so that the noodle rests on it inside the frame, so short that the housing disappears inside of the frame. Its not so bad on the back but in the front fork, lets just say its a pain in the butt to get the cable out whe the housing is inside the fork. The hole is very small. Another thing that takes a bit of time is setting the brakes up for your rim width. Its not done with a spring tension adjustment at all. it differs from normal Vbrakes because normal v brakes open. Normally, once you use the correct pad spacers you just adjust it so you get the desired amount of play; close or not as close, depending on how you want your brake lever positioned on lock. With the BMC brakes, there are stops that do not allow the brake arms to open past a specific point. NOTE these brakes play an aerodynamic role along with the frame so they have to line up with the lines of it. In limiting the distance of which the arms can open, you limit how space you can have once the pads and the pads spacers are on. With this bike, you use extra spacers and combinations of them to dictate the distance between rim and pad. That dictates how far your brake levers go in. But really. This is a bike of extreme precision, once its set up, you dont have to change it much if any. Taking the time to set up the brakes is something we all must do, it just takes a bit more time on this bike. Now that the brakes are set up, and feel better than they did with the stock brake noodle, we can talk about the feel of their engagement. On a normal V-brake, like on a mountain bike, we use spring tension to not only adjust how much force we have to use to close the brake but also to balance out each arm as to make the pads hit the braking surface simolatinioulsy. This is the BIGGEST gripe I have about my Time Machine's brakes!!!! There is no way to adjust the balance of the arms. The frame is narrow so there is only so much space for a cable to bend basically 90 degrees as they have to with a v-brake. I say that because the tight internal spacing puts the housing to one side of the frame, the cable bends through the noodle, and gets hooked to the brake arm. Its a small space for all of that to be going on in and the tightness puts a limit on the housing's movement. THAT limits one of the brake arm's movement. The small amount of extra pressure on the cable housing could be overpowered by either increasing the opposing arm's spring tension or by decreasing the tension in the arm the cable is hooked to. The BMC does not have that option though!!! On both brakes, one of the pads hits the rim before the other. When your used to brake perfection things like that might bother you for a bit as it did me. Im over it as in im used to it so I dont cry when it happens on a ride but I still want to find a solution!

The other issue with the brake is a small one. I fixed it on my bike but it may be an issue on other bikes depending on the rim and tire width differences. As most road brakes have a a release to use when taking the wheel off the TM does not. you cant even open the v-brake due to reasons I mentioned above. The front wheel, on mine, isnt an issue at all but the rear wheel is. I cut a small portion of housing out of the way on the tiny length of the cable that is visible between the aerobar and the frame and put a cable adjuster on. No, when I get a flat I can just follow the steps in changing it without having to change when I inflate the tire. Not sure if every raody does this but, I inflate the tire while off the bike, then put it back on. I wouldnt have been able to do that without that little barrel adjuster on the cable. Sure I have to remember to loosen the cable before I take the wheel off or put it back on but thats better than changing up a process I have done for years, agree? with the adjuster, I think there is enough range to even put other, thinner or wider, wheels on it. But, the front is another issue. My rims are very close to the same width for both the Bontrager and the Mavics that came on it. So, theres that. Now there is this. IF you plan to train on one set of wheels and then change it up on race day to a race wheel, be ready to mess around with the pad spacers. Hopefully you dont have to mess with anything to do with cables, especially the front one. The front brake has a plastic cover that hides the noodle/cable connection area. The hole on the brake arm is TINY. Its the width of a cable. You HAVE to cut the remainder of the calbe off once its tightened. Anything that hangs out of the arm will hit the plastic cover and it would just make the cover stick out off the line of the fork. Kinda shitty! I suppose you could drill a tiny hole on the plastic piece so that you could have about 5-10mm of cable remaining once it exits the arm, but hopefully you never have to change that when it comes to wheels. Also, the tiny screw that tightens the cable to the arm is of the crushing type. Once tightened it just smooshes the cable to the point of no return. Meaning, even with the fastener completely loose, and even out of its hole, the cable with still take a hefty amount of pulling to get it out of the arm. The hole in the arm is so small that the expanded/crushed cable cant fit through it to well. If you have to adjust a cable, just make sure you have a new one on hand and at the ready.

Does anyone know if any of these issues have been fixed for 2013, prolly not but hey. anyone?

While asking questions, I thought of this. Are tri brake levers all the same in the way that they pull, distance in particular? Let me elaborate. I know on nice MNT bike brake levers, both cable and hyrdo, have adjustments for both engagement and lever position. For angle of attack and modulation. Im sure its just a matter of pivot point and leverage on the lever itself. I ask bc I would like my to tweek my levers. At full engagement they are farely close to the bar and Im not a fan of it. This is NOT a matter of pad distance either. I have no experience in tri/tt brake levers other than what I have and the few I have adjusted for others. None of them had any adjustments on the lever itself.

Lets see your Time Machines!
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Re: Official BMC Time Machine Owners Thread [avagoyamug] [ In reply to ]
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I just got a new car and will be switching from roof rack to rear rack. Does anybody have any problems with the racks that hang the bike from the top tube? The different shape of that tube has me a little worried about wear and tear. Or is it not a big issue? Any tips to protect the paint?


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Zen and the Art of Triathlon
Interviews with Jordan Rapp, Helle Frederikson, Angela Naeth, and many more.
http://www.zentriathlon.com
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Re: Official BMC Time Machine Owners Thread [texafornia] [ In reply to ]
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New to the forums here but not new to the tri game. I will be picking up my TM01 Ultegra M-S on Friday after I get professionally fitted. So pumped and can't wait to get on it. I will be keeping it fairly stock unfortunately until next season when I'll upgrade the wheels (school loans just started kicking in). I will post pics soon; some really nice looking bikes on here I wish my budget could afford the Di2 but there's always a chance to upgrade in the future.
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Re: Official BMC Time Machine Owners Thread [subydude88] [ In reply to ]
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Here's the new bike so pumped to have it. Ended up going with the Cobb Gen2 saddle fit the best. Future upgrades would be new wheels not sure which ones to go with yet, new base bar, and new hydration setup but for now this bike will be worlds better than my road bike.
Last edited by: subydude88: Jun 29, 13 6:12
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Re: Official BMC Time Machine Owners Thread [subydude88] [ In reply to ]
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I upgraded the wheels on my TM last month. Front Hed 6 and Hed disc in the rear. Very happy.
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Re: Official BMC Time Machine Owners Thread [700c] [ In reply to ]
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+1
brakes really suck and i tried with various noodles but didn't get anywhere
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Re: Official BMC Time Machine Owners Thread [Richie74] [ In reply to ]
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Here are some 2014 color.......





My TT bike
BMC TM01
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Re: Official BMC Time Machine Owners Thread [fabricatedyou] [ In reply to ]
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Posting on behalf of a local owner...




.

Matt Harrop
http://www.matt-harroptriathlete.com
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Re: Official BMC Time Machine Owners Thread [700c] [ In reply to ]
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Much as I love my TM01, I am going to have sell if I cannot get these brakes sorted. Have already had one accident due to brake fade and dont want another.

Main issues are caused by the positioning of the noodle - I cannot route front or back in a manner which has a smooth connection between noodle and brake outer. Have given up on rear brake, front brake will stop me using an aluminium rim but inadequate stopping power with a tri-spoke and I am only 71 kg.
If any of you guys have pics of your noodle set up, I would really appreciate a peek.

I really do not want to go down the road of selling my prized bike over this - it seems crazy.
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Re: Official BMC Time Machine Owners Thread [Tillquist] [ In reply to ]
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Tillquist wrote:
Here are some 2014 color.......




Are they speccing a 3T Brezza on the di2 version this year?

Ken Petruzzelli
My Blog - Opinionated Triathlete & Lawyer
Coached by TriMarni Coaching & Nutrition
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Re: Official BMC Time Machine Owners Thread [Tillquist] [ In reply to ]
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Track Machine TR01 and TR02 in the background as well as TMR02 aero road bike, same as the TMR01 but with a standard front brake.
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Re: Official BMC Time Machine Owners Thread [Tillquist] [ In reply to ]
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Re: Official BMC Time Machine Owners Thread [700c] [ In reply to ]
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