Here is what I did. I ride TT's and have a Shiv TT bike. I use the 3T ski bend extensions. I tested last year at A2 and at Carson and both times a higher hand position produced a lower CdA. Zipp RTC shifters also helped raise my hands. But as many have said, the higher hand position means an angled forearm and that left either the point of my elbow resting in the arm rest or just the back edge of the arm rest supporting my forearm depending on how I could position the arm rests.
Ideally I wanted the arm rests to be angled at the same angle of my forearms so that that my forearms would be supported by the full length of the arm rests. I tried to get a couple of local CNC and 3-D Print shops in town to make me some angled spacers but either they were not interested or wanted too much $.
So I contacted Fibre Lyte in the UK and they were able make these aero wedge spacers at a very reasonable price. I had them make them with a 10 degree angle. They fit right below the arm rests and above the aero bars so the arm rests are now at a 10 degree angle and fully support my forearms. Much more comfortable!

http://www.fibre-lyte.co.uk/...icycleintropage.html

That's exactly what mine ended up looking like by using a the cutoff wheel and an angle grinder. I'm going to try what I have now then if I want more I will pick up the taller spacers so I can get more angle then what the shallower spacer would allow.

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Heath

Can anyone recommend a solution for a Profile Design Aeria bar? I have S-bend extensions already but I'd like to achieve more angle without just tilting the bar up.

Thanks for the insights on your website and on the aero camp posts. I,ve just turned up my pro missle base bar/ski extensions from 6 to 13 degrees and much more comfortable. As an added bonus I seem to be able to generate a small amunt of extra power on my first turbo session since the change.

Have you tested the torhans aero 30 (which I use), with upturned bars? My bro science thinks it would be potentially fare better than the standard BTAs and not really lose its benefits.

I noticed that as well; I felt very strong on that position.

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The entire event (IM) is like "death by 1000 cuts" and the best race is minimizing all those cuts and losing less blood than the other guy. - Dev

That's the hydration system I use on the P5, and if nothing else it looks great. I like to think it's very aero as well.

there's plenty of this here on ST if you search. I believe it was Jim@ERO who was the first to find that as long as the Torhans 30 was snug against the head tube, it was a fast hydration option.

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Eric Reid AeroFit | Instagram Portfolio
Aerodynamic Retul Bike Fitting

“You are experiencing the criminal coverup of a foreign backed fascist hostile takeover of a mafia shakedown of an authoritarian religious slow motion coup. Persuade people to vote for Democracy.”

Got a picture of your final setup?

can you walk us through what you did

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Follow me on Twitter @CK21TRHC
I use what I love: ISM, Blue70, Trek, FLO

what I did with my bike? My fit? Or with Jim@ERO?

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Eric Reid AeroFit | Instagram Portfolio
Aerodynamic Retul Bike Fitting

“You are experiencing the criminal coverup of a foreign backed fascist hostile takeover of a mafia shakedown of an authoritarian religious slow motion coup. Persuade people to vote for Democracy.”

So I need some clarity and maybe just misread some posts. I have new p3 w/ 3T breeza II LTD w 3T ski bends. When you guys are talking about cutting and angling parts. Are you cutting/angling spacers on the head tube? cutting/angling risers under the arm pads? For those adding washers, are you putting the washer in between the base bar and extension clip mount or are you placing the washer between the armpad cradle and extension clip mount?

I have plenty of spacers on head tube to remove to get myself lower. I just purchased a longer stem (10mm, is that enough or need more?) I can probably lower my base bar 20-25mm more if need to.

I need new cables on bike so starting to think about setting up new fit first. Sorry if i already asked a previously posted question.

Risers under the arm pads. Angling the base bar @ 10-15% with head spacers is not the best option of the two.

I put small washers under the front of pad holder. Whatever you're attaching your pad holder to, put washers between that and your pad holder on the front to tip it up. run the bolt through the washers. Be sure to use some Loctite and use a torque wrench.

Do this at your own risk w/ carbon pad holders.

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Eric Reid AeroFit | Instagram Portfolio
Aerodynamic Retul Bike Fitting

“You are experiencing the criminal coverup of a foreign backed fascist hostile takeover of a mafia shakedown of an authoritarian religious slow motion coup. Persuade people to vote for Democracy.”

Yea have to keep the basebars parallel.. I have carbon arm pad cradles and carbon aero extensions. When y'all add washers or angle the risers, do you get longer bolts or can you still use the standard bolts.

Pictures from the Etixx-Quick Step on Pez Cycling shows some photos of Tony Martin playing with a new TT position.

With his forearms tilted up at (SWAG) 10-15-deg from horizontal...interesting, very interesting...wonder if they did some (more?) wind tunnel testing or what the impetus was for the change.

are the extensions independent of the base bar or integrated?

If separate, tilt the whole thing while keeping the base bar level and aerodynamic.

if fixed, put washers under the front of the arm pad holder to tilt the arm pads and then get super big ski bend extensions to get the height for 15 degrees of upward tilt.

EDIT: OK, I looked for a picture of your bars. You need washers under the pads, and then ski bend extensions. You can play around with putting various ones in backwards to get the height.

I ordered Use Tula aluminum extensions from the UK, 50 degree ones.

EDIT 2: you really ought to do yourself a favor and a) get a good fit from a reputable fitter as your body is the # 1 cause of drag and b) if you're really fast, you should have a better aerobar, like 3T Ventus or TriRig Alpha X

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Eric Reid AeroFit | Instagram Portfolio
Aerodynamic Retul Bike Fitting

“You are experiencing the criminal coverup of a foreign backed fascist hostile takeover of a mafia shakedown of an authoritarian religious slow motion coup. Persuade people to vote for Democracy.”

fastest option here is to slam the stem (ie. remove steerer spacers) and then use aero risers under the extensions to raise the extensions AND the pads, as a unit, back up to your desired stack height.

See my post above showing the stack of my 3T Ventus bars.

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Eric Reid AeroFit | Instagram Portfolio
Aerodynamic Retul Bike Fitting

“You are experiencing the criminal coverup of a foreign backed fascist hostile takeover of a mafia shakedown of an authoritarian religious slow motion coup. Persuade people to vote for Democracy.”

I know the ventus or alpha would have been faster, but i had the aura pro (raised bar ends), for christmas I got a ton of amazon gift cards and found the breeza(flat bar ends, 1/2 lb lighter) for $280 (normally 800-1,000). Had enough to cover the cost so i got them.

I have been retul fitted and we played w praying mantis position but was too uncomfortable and out on the road, i could barely hold straight line. I have decent fit (19* back angle). I originally had the base bar slammed but to play w the praying mantis, he raised my base bar and etc. I am looking to go back to slamming my stem and getting my hand a bit above my elbows for a bit more cush and bit more speed.

How many washers are you putting to angle the bars up? Do i need to get a longer screw so that its still secured?

Agreed- heaps of info on the Aero 30. My question was more about what happens when you angle it up. I.e. In my old position, it was about 2 inches at top and bottom of the rear part of bottle in relation to the headtube. When I angle up the base bars/extensions, I therefore angle up the Aero 30. So instead of it being set up near horizontal, its on an angle. the top is still 2 inches from the headset, but the bottom is now approx 3 inches. Now, even if this means the aero 30 is no longer 'adding a few watts', if it is still neutral, then it is still potentially better than a traditional BTA which is potentially no longer drag neutral due to angle of extensions. FYI - yes, I'm being pedantic...

Like 5 washers, I do use a longer bolt and loctite

If you're not comfortable with hands up you're likely not doing it right. It should be *more* comfortable

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Eric Reid AeroFit | Instagram Portfolio
Aerodynamic Retul Bike Fitting

“You are experiencing the criminal coverup of a foreign backed fascist hostile takeover of a mafia shakedown of an authoritarian religious slow motion coup. Persuade people to vote for Democracy.”

Yeah I think that falls into the "have to test individually" area

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Eric Reid AeroFit | Instagram Portfolio
Aerodynamic Retul Bike Fitting

“You are experiencing the criminal coverup of a foreign backed fascist hostile takeover of a mafia shakedown of an authoritarian religious slow motion coup. Persuade people to vote for Democracy.”

Even Tony Martin is testing with angling his arms. Doing the opposite of what Jim says. Less reach and more drop.

Less reach? Tony is locked into either 75 or 80cm on reach depending on where he has his saddle (guessing 5cm setback, which means 80 is his max). Not sure that is opposite of what Jim recommends, it just means that Tony is much more constrained with reach than any of us are.

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My YouTubes

Might I ask what you paid for it?
Was considering buying a chainring might as well get something similar for my Ventus.

I know he is constrained by the rules, but looking at pictures from before, he has slightly less reach (could also be because of the dropped torso).
I recall him saying he had his arm like he had before because he pulled strongly with his arms, from experience I can tell that his position like he has (upper arms) in the new pictures allows him to still pull hard on his arms, but not constantly pulling yourself forward. Its actually quite close to my own position