This might be related to the fact that i've started only once in WTC event and last that took the slot had 9.07. I had 9.22 with 1.07 swim and 3.23 run, imo quite decent as for loosing virginity. This year target is to put 8 at front with swim around 1h.

Why not just take a vacation then?

I you went with a p5 (like if I went with a p5), you would need to get rid of the integrated bar. You could still be on a P5-6, but you would have to do a mod like Cervelo did to Steffen's bike to keep that slick beard up front.

FWIW, you are a little higher than I am, but not much. I ride 51 p4 slammed (you have the dust cap still on), I also ride a slightly negative stem, though I do have a 5mm spacer under my super low stack bar. In the end, p5 MIGHT work for you barely, it won't work for me unless I do some heavy manipulation and even then it MIGHT be slightly faster than my p4 (though at least the brakes would work and it would be easier to service)!

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Ironman Certified Coach

Currently accepting limited number of new athletes

I think there's enough room for improvement with your current set-up that moving to a p5 wouldn't be necessary.

- Better helmet. Giro a2 seems to test universally well. I don't think I've heard of the lazer testing fastest on anyone.
- Aeroish bento box behind stem - like darkspeedworks or xlap tapered one
- Normal bottle between bars - not the aero drink. Or try the profile hc bottle if you must have a straw
- Get the rear bottles closer and higher up behind your seat
- Aero front & rear brake like tririg
- Cut down the spacers on top of the stem
- More aero/better fitting shoes like sworks or bonts.
- Tighter top or top with sleeves if it fits well
- Cable modification to run shifter cables through top tube (if you're good with power tools :)
- Number belt w/o the loops on the side. Bungee string or simpler belt
- Good tires and latex tubes

OR, just swim, bike and run more than you have been :)

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Twitter | Kancman | Blog

For the most 'bang for the buck' (plus you get the option of using any brakes you want, and any cockpit that you want), the P2 or P3 give you essentially superbike performance for a lot less money than a P5.

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Advanced Aero TopTube Storage for Road, Gravel, & Tri...ZeroSlip & Direct-mount, made in the USA.
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Your frame is awesome!

Not so awesome:
Beard.
Helmet.
Rear hydration.
Clothing.
Shave arms.
Brake calipers.
Keep head down. Turtle like Kienle.

Beard - will probably stay - according to Specialized gain is so negligible it's not worth to sacrifice image :D
Helmet - gathering recommendations - someone suggested Giro A2, what about Scott Split, LG P09, Spec s-works TT?
Rear hydration - Xlab Delta 300 and considering http://xlab-usa.com/...e-repair-holder.html as one bottle currently is tool box with tube and co2
Clothing - LG m2 or HUUB DS Long Course, considering also Pearl izumi but it's hard to buy it and also Castelli
Shaved arms - I've seen Specialized tunnel test and 6w are worth all those funny comments
Break calipers - tririg for front + stem is on the way, plan is to mount di2 with cable mod
Keep head down - going to work on it

Thinking also on replacing the dust cap with something thinner and compensate this with additional spaces between base bar and extensions.
This should also solve annoying problem of nut from torpedo rattling against stem

I've had a P3C (now sold), S5 and a P5. Saw zero difference in times (or speed at specific watt levels) due to the bike frame. There were handling/position differences between the S5 and P5 but I wouldn't bother upgrading.

Maybe a short trimmed beard is ok, but even then I question their ability to discern small differences with one test. Your beard sticks down and is hitting clean air. Really doubt that is good.
All those helmets sound promising.
I'm thinking stuff on the rear should be closer to your butt.

Sounds like you should see some marginal gains. You could also experiment with going lower in front.

There's a lot of evidence that stuff on the front that hits clean air is of primary importance. If it was me, I'd swap your brake levers for something with less frontal area, and just put a line of skateboard tape on top of the hand grips (no bar tape).

What tires and tubes are you running?

I've use to be lower by 5mm, but putting that one spacer between the bars made it much more comfortable.

Regarding break levers I'm going to replace them but with durace di2 which I guess won't help.

For race I could get rid of bar tape from base bar, but for everyday rides it's nightmare to go without it.
Anyway I plan to change it for Fizik Microtex soft touch, as this one I have now is some crappy merida.

Tires are Conti GP4000s with conti butyl tubes, but going to get latex (any recommendations?)

"Beard - will probably stay - according to Specialized gain is so negligible it's not worth to sacrifice image :D "

Just FYI:
The proper big smile beard emoticon is :D# or :-{D}

I buy Vittoria latex from Ribble for ~$8 each. Good tubes. Good place to buy all sorts of bike parts. Make sure you learn how to install them properly! If done right they are more puncture resistant than butyl.

I'm not up on the Di2. I guess they have shifters in the brakes? Not seeing the need for that.

Keep a new tire for the front on race day. Just remove the nubs. You should experience a small gain if you switched to Attack/Force, with no loss of puncture resistance. Turn the front tire backwards of recommend.

-slow helmet (first pic)
-slow hydration
-slow clothing

You'd save >2x the improvements of a new frame by optimizing those aspects

I ride a p3c with a slammed ventus. Been lusting after the p5, but struggle with the fit and aerobatic options. Instead of spending 5k, I am going to spend 400 to get my frame custom painted to give the bike a fresh look.

Little update about done upgrades vs results.

Upgrades:
- New rear hydration - Single bottle Xlab delta 300 + multi-strike holder (front hydration torpedo)
- Tririg stem + front brake, stem slammed + steerer tube cut accordingly, extensions adjusted to previous fit.
- Fully integrate Di2 - cable mod + internal battery, junction hidden in stem
- New outfit - Castelli Bodypaint + trivent Sworks
- Lost dignity - legs and arms shaved.

Still to go:
New helmet - Sworks TT - but was not available in whole Europe.

http://imgur.com/a/w3Jh3#0

Results - could be better, but not bad.
Swimming is better but not suffice- couldn't see anything as I forgot my goggles from home and had to borrow anything. That anything was clear speedos so not a perfect choice for that conditions.
Run - planned 2 minutes better but colic attacked me around 16th km - should have eaten more gels on the bike.
25th place open.
http://triatlon.org/...70.3-BCN-Overall.pdf

Sweet setup!

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Candice Turner
CEO
XLAB - Aerodynamic Triathlon Accessories
Dawn to Dusk - Off-road Specific Storage Accessories
http://www.XLAB-USA.com http://www.dawntodusk.bike

7th best bike split.

Wow.

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´Get the most aero and light bike you can get. With the aero advantage you can be saving minutes and with the weight advantage you can be saving seconds. In a race against the clock both matter.´

BMANX

Actually it was 6th. First had 1.41 - new 1h ride WR :)

Michal, as a p5 user; i don't think you will benefit too much with p5 - esepcially once wireless sram comes out



p5 is a nice bike but so is yours and travelling with p5 is a major pita; definitely not worth the spend


powodzenia

Candice, I've got a question to you.
For full IM I'm planning to place Xlab Aero TT bottle on the frame and fill it with gels.
But life would be to simple, if I could just mount it and go riding.
My Cervelo is 51 and it looks like bosses are to close to curved seat tube to accommodate Xlab bottle.



I could drill the mount a little bit to shift it up, but I'm afraid it will weaken the structure and snap at probably most inconvenient moment.

There is also a little problem with Multi-Strike Holder - generally it works but lower holder is too close to bottle cage, so it's very hard to screw 16g CO2 cartridge.

Ran into the same issue with mine. I drilled it like you are thinking and have had no issues with mine. ~6,000 miles so far with it.

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Formerly TriBrad02

Don't drill the frame. Buy this and move the bottle cage up http://xlab-usa.com/...-cage-optimizer.html

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Make Inside Out Sports your next online tri shop! http://www.insideoutsports.com/

Not the frame but the cage - I would make the holes "long" so I could shift it up and down, just like it is in gorrilla cage.
Cage optimize is nice options but I would need to buy it. As I already mention, life cannot be to simple so polish xlab distributor doesn't have this part :) and I would have to order it from i.e. Germany and pay 15euro for shipping.

Edit: Just read the whole thread properly, sounds like you don't want to reduce pad stack, so ignore what I wrote (but enjoy the pretty pictures..)!!


I'll reiterate that you are bloody fast, but as a thought if you still wanted to go lower at the front those bars have pretty high pad stack. I don't know if you can reconfigure them at all, but you could consider something like the Felt Devox, or Vision Trimax. I have the P3C too and needed the least stack possible (and a frame size that gave me the reach I wanted) so I went with the older Devox, the carbon Bayonet model, combined with -17 Sigma XF stem, slammed, and swapped in a low profile headset cap.

I believe the Pro Missile Evo can be configured with the extensions under the bars and the pads slammed.

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ZONE3 - We Last Longer