I bought a 2013 Speed Concept 7.5 model in January. Riding over small bumps would cause the chain to clip the edge of the chainstay protector plate and on three occasions, ripping it off and dragging it into the chain rings. Trek in Australia and the dealer told me it was rider error but they replaced the plate anyway. I ended up in hospital when the same thing happened when swerving to miss colliding with a car, requiring me to have a plate inserted to fix my broken clavicle and also suffering three fractured ribs. I had to pull out of Ironman Australia in May and can't ride, run or swim for a few months.

I'm disappointed with the Australian office of Trek and the dealer, Turramurra Cyclery in Sydney, for their attitude mainly, but I'm also out of pocket for the crash damaged caused to the bike as a result of this design flaw (IMHO) or at best, manufacturing defect. I believe the plate is more trouble than it's worth.

Looking for some advice on Speed Concept with Di2.

First time buyer of a triathlon bike. I have looked at several bikes (Cervelo, Specialized, Orbea, SC), and I like the feel and fit of the Speed Concept. However, I want electronic shifting. (I have it on my road bike).

Looking at what Trek offers for Di2... I have the choice of getting a SC7.5 and having my LBS install the Ultegra Di2. Or going to the SC9.9 (Project One) with 10 speed Di2. The cost difference is approx. $2200.

I am trying to understand any advantage(s) is spending the extra money on the 9.9. I understand some aero improvement, but that is hard to quantify. Are there any other advantages to going SC9.9 versus SC 7.5?

I appreciate the feedback ...

The only advantage I an think of is that (stem dependant) you can hide all the di2 cabling and gubbins. I think there's a pic on my profile.

Oh, and the integrated front brake is cool!

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Developing aero, fit and other fun stuff at Red is Faster

Aero advantages can be quantified.

There is probably 10 grams of drag difference between the standard 7.x and 9.x front ends (bars, integrated brakes, integrated cables).

That's worth 3 minutes over 180km.

Whether that is worth the additional cost is up to you.

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Team Kiwami
Instagram

Skippy kitten,

Thank you for the feedback. I looked at the pictures on your profile. Is the Garmin integrated cover something that is available in the aftermarket?

21544-large_IMG_0167.JPG

You could make up most of the aero difference with a different bar setup like a Ventus / felt devox / zipp vuka and still save most of the cost differential.

I am very happy with my 7 series - I see little value in moving to a 9 series

That's a DIY job. About an hour's work with a drill, glue and abrasive papers. The two little holes behind the mount are for the Di2 LED and button. The 7970 control box just fits inside the 10/100 stem.

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Developing aero, fit and other fun stuff at Red is Faster

I don't disagree with closing the aero gap with the bar upgrade (I believe the bar is what makes the biggest difference) - that's why I mentioned "standard front end".

I was able to get into both of my 9.x's at very good pricepoints, so that's what pushed me into the 9.x.

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Team Kiwami
Instagram

Agreed.
I got a 7.0 at close out pricing, upgraded the front end to Zipp Vuka bars and front break to the Omega unit.
As far as i am concerned the inferior drivetrain components don't really make an aero difference and have proven to be reliable so far.



Having said all that, I may upgrade to a 9 series in the future since I can't lower the cockpit anymore.

Carl, i'm sure this has been discussed before, but why is it that trek changed the transition area between the fork and downtube on later models?

Did you try either? If so, which and any cable rub?

Thank you.

here you go

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Carl Matson

Hi,
I have a 2011 trek speedconcept 7,fully up graded spec,I went for the dura-ace 7900 Di2 as My wheels were 10speed and I did not want to upgrade my wheels to 11speed for the new dura-ace,I have the new bontrager RXL carbon aero bar's on and the tririg omega front brake on it,I will stick up some pics of the bars with di2 and the bike so you can see how it looks,if I was to buy again I I would buy a SC9,not for aero advantage as I think the SC7 with RXL bars and aero break is almost as aero it would be just to have a top spec SC9,I'll get up pics later for you,

i think you got your number wrong or your math are wrong....

10 gram dosnt equal 3min over 180km..... 100gram does....

and that would be the difference between the 7 and the 9....about 100gram. and yep, a good bar and brake on the sc7 would close that gap some....
.

.

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Jonathan Caron / Professional Coach / ironman champions / age group world champions
Jonnyo Coaching
Instargram

yep...forgot a zero....meant to say 100g.

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Team Kiwami
Instagram

I just picked up a Cobb Gen 2 demo saddle for a SC7 and having a heck of a time getting the saddle level. I loosen the bolt that holds the rails in place, get the saddle level and as I tighten the bolt back down, the nose keeps rising a few degrees. Any thoughts on this, I must be doing something wrong.

make sure the pieces inside the seatpost head are moving when you move the saddle ...I bet they aren't

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Carl Matson

You are correct, they are not moving. So how do you loosen them up so they move?

I got the 480D - sits pretty close to the cable hood.

try taking the saddle clamp bolt all the way out, then pry gently at each cone with the short end of that allen wrench.

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Carl Matson

Any ideas on how I could do this?

http://www.tririg.com/...ing_Deeper&num=2

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'The best pace is suicide pace and today is a good day to die.'

Each athletes' setup is different so our race shop does custom bits for each one. If you search the forums for between the arms bottle I'm sure you'll get lots of inspiration.

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Carl Matson

Thanks

I wish I was following along better. I took out the clamp bolt but not sure what you mean by the cone. Are you referring to the inner ring that holds the bottom part of the saddle rail. I just can't seem to move this part.

Your seatpost should be more or less like this.

http://images.google.com/...%7C5u2XEAHUlWHkSM%3A

You want to make sure the compression wedge is actually rotating, lots of times it gets "locked" into place so you loosen the assembly, think you adjust saddle angle, and then when you tighten it goes back t the old angle.

This is the piece that I cant get to unlock. Not sure how to break it free without breaking it.