Carl,
Thanks.
The original front brake sleeve worked!
One final question:
The frame protector plate by the chain rings came off due to a chain drop.
Any suggestions on replacement and future prevention?
Thanks again!

Carl,
It worked.
Thanks!

I'm sure this has been asked but I can't seem to find it. I'm into replacing my ski bend bars with the zip Vuka s-bends. Looks like there are the Vuka (22.0 mm) and Vuka race (22.2 mm). What is the size of the stock ski bends that came on my 2012 9.x sc? Which Vuka bars will work for me? Are they too long and will need cutting?

Thanks

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You'll need the 22.2...I'm not familiar enough with those to know about the length, sorry.

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Carl Matson

I just got them added (replaced the stock levers when my D3 wheels came in, as my daily riding wheels are older Zipp 404 clinchers with a narrower brake track).

Just rode them today for the first time. 46 miles in the wind with varying speeds (up to 38 mph on a downhill) and they felt great the whole time (and I felt confident). Great product all the way around (only gripe is it should be stock on a P1 9 series).

hi
ive been trying t install the Di2 wires though the bars 2 nine series bikes
ive tryed everything, im no numpty to building up bikes
i can get brake cables and string through the bars then attatched the plug end of the wires too (with tape) i just cant get em through
they just get stuck around the area where the bolts go through to hold down the extensions
the ones for the bars ends will be fine its the wires for the brake shifters im having trouble with

ive been at this for 2 days and im completly stuck
ive had a quick search through this thread and google but not much luck and too many pages
any tips would be very handy
cheers
IP

The brake cable trick is how I do it...the key is to make sure you're not running it in front or behind the extension bolt bosses. If you go between, you're golden. I find the easiest way to ensure I'm between them is to run that brake cable from the back of the bar out to the bullhorn.

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Carl Matson

thanks for your response carl
i was trying to go through the top , after i asked for help i bent my brake cable a bit 100mm from the end so it would go through the middle of the extensions and bang
straight through
thanks for your help
IP

I believe replacement PN for the chainstrike plate is still PN w302284.

as for prevention, the first most likely culprit is a misaligned/maladjusted front derailleur. after that, I find the usual suspects tend to be user-oriented...don't get crosschained, don't make chainring shifts in either direction under max load (like dropping from big ring to small while you're standing in the middle of a hill), keep your drivetrain clean, etc.

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Carl Matson

Carl,
Thanks for the help and info!

I have been working my way through from the beginning of this thread with only 40 or so pages to go :) It has been great reading and the support/advice from other SC owners has pretty much help make up my mind to go with the SC7 instead of the Felt DA/B12 or Cervelo P2 :)

I will be getting a Retul Tri fit in a few weeks so will know whether I need a XS or S. I'm hoping to achieve a good fit with a small as I really don't want to start a collection of 650c wheels but if the XS is the right fit I will go with that. Not sure if my current road bikes are a good starting point for initially sizing a SC? I'm 5 foot 4 and ride a Cannondale CAAD10 and SuperSix both 48cm (with 70mm stem, handlebar stack 559mm and handlebar reach 420mm) so I'm thinking XS.

Also, I currently run Rotor 3D Plus cranks on the Cannondales. I'm hoping to get a power2max for these cranks and was hoping that I might be able to use the same cranks+powermeter with the SC7 as well. My 700c powertap wheel will not be of use if I need 650c wheels. In past replies in this thread I see that the Rotor 3D cranks work ok (shimano compatible) but not the Rotor 3D Plus. I noticed that Rotor have recently made available a BB converter bearings (Press fit 4130mm BB86 converter Steel bearings) allowing use of the Rotor 3D Plus crankset with a bike with BB86. Does anyone know if this combination will work with the SC7? Thanks.

http://www.rotoruk.co.uk/PressFit.html
http://www.velotechservices.co.uk/...1&cat=7410001938

So I am almost ready to pull the trigger on the Aura 5's as upgrade for my SC7.0 - still comparing to some Zipp 303's as I have decided I want to keep the alum brake track. My only concern with the Aura's is the carbon faring is rather flexible vs the rigid Zipp product or the Aeolus series. Anyone have any experience or feedback on the durability of the Aura's and also are they noisier than all get out? (empty wagons make most noise).

Appreciate any insight if anyone's riding the Aura's - Thanks.

I used Aura 5's for aprox 650 miles this season, both as training and racing wheels. I actually quite like them, very solid wheelset. I went through quite a nasty pothole in one race, but the wheels stayed true. Regading noise, no complaints. Zipp's and Aeolus D3 wheels likely produce more noise, they are hollow too you know and being very rigid makes them noisier.

Has anybody painted their draft box? If so, what type of paint did you use and does the extra 1mm or 2mm affect clearance/installation.
I'd like to paint mine to match the white/red/grey on my bike....I've seen a few painted ones at IM races and it looks incredible relative to the stock black (or white decal).
Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Eric

Hi Carl,

I need to replace the bearings of the steering box on my SC 9, where can I find them in Brazil?

Thanks.

I'd use the dealer locator on our Brazilian website to find your nearest source.

The lower headset bearing is PN 428420 and the upper is PN W276442.

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Carl Matson

Thanks Carl.

Wat's the PN for ceramic BB of SC9?

I think we've been here before?

Unless you're on Shimano now, in which case the #s are here.

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Carl Matson

Carl,

Went to make some adjustments with my aero bars last night and I couldn't seem to get one of my arm pad holder clamps (or whatever they are called) loose. I'm talking about where the holder is clamped to the aero bar. It might have been over tightened previously and in the process of trying to loosen the hex screw, I seem to have rounded off the screw.... so now my allen wrench just slips everytime I try to loosen the screw. Any suggestions to get this screw out? Is there a part number for the screw or a new clamp holder?

Thanks

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an ST search on stripped bolt heads will turn up solutions pretty quickly...most of which involve some variant of a screw-out style tool.

the part which attaches to the pad holder and the aero extension is known as a P-clamp (owing to its shape) in house, the PN is 420492, and it comes with a bolt.

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Carl Matson

Does anyone know where I can purchase a bontrager RXL carbon aerobar for my SC 7.0 Any deals around? Should I be looking at any other bars? Kinda like the look of the rxl. Thanks!

Totally clueless question.. would the
SRAM S900 BB30 Double 10sp Chainset
work with the 2011 speed concept?
It came with Apex so is that an ok swap over visa vie size and BB etc.. ?

Thanks

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Fail to Prepare, Prepare to Fail

No, for drop-in compatibility you'd need a GXP version of whatever crank you're interested in...not BB30.

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Carl Matson

Ok great, thanks, so a GXP version of any crankset will do it, thanks a lot!

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Fail to Prepare, Prepare to Fail

Sanderv - thanks for the feedback on the Aura 5's, have them ordered up. Looking forward to the aero gain and weight savings this summer.