You have the integrated shift boss on the end? I think the cable still exist the rear same place as you currently have with just the R2C on regular extensions.

Hmm not sure. There is a hole in the end of the bar for the cable to enter the extension and a housing/ferrule stop on the other side. But I haven't test fitted it so I don't know exactly what its going to look like. Perhaps it's possible to run the housing externally if there is space. Another issue I think is going to be a stop of some kind to hold the ferrule even if the cable exits with enough space to route externally.

Okay, you are really confusing me here. There are 2 versions of the Vuka extensions. One is just a basic extension that you plug your shifters into the end of. The other is intended only for Vuka R2C shifters and eliminates the need for the mounting part of the shifter since it's built in the the extension. Either way you should be able to run a complete cable and housing from the shifter, external to the extension itself. You can run the housing through the extension and out the back end if that application works but it doesn't for us because we want the housing to pass through the base bar and to the internal frame routing.

Do you have these? http://www.trisports.com/...xtension-bosses.html

Yep, that's the beast you linked to. I should have posted some pics. If they'll take external cables I'm golden, thanks. Was hoping to hear if it would work before I scuffed them and ruined their returnability.

I'm assuming they will take external cables. If not you can exchange them for the regualr Vuka extensions, save yourself $100, and have virtually the same set up. I know for a fact they use external cables - that's what I have.

I think that those only route internally. If you want to use them then the cleanest way is to bust out the dremel. Otherwise return them and get a different extension that will allow you to route the cable externally.

you mean dremelimg a hole in em? Have you done this?

Unless there is some reason you are dead set on the zipp's, I would go with the Profile Cobra T2. They already have the holes pre-drilled where you need them in order to route the cables through the aero bar.

Carl,
What is the official part no. for the speed concept seat post clamp that needs to be used for over sized seat rails like those on afizik arione?
Thanks

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Yes. I mean dremeling a hole in them. I haven't done it with the Vukas but I have with other extensions. I can't comment on the safety of it.

406923 for 7x9 rails

421564 for 7x10

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Carl Matson

There is no reason to drill holes in them just to route 6 inches of housing internally and pop back out to go through the base bar. Just exchange them for the regular Vuka extensions.

Hey Carl,

Are there any Stainless Steel bolt kits for the Speed Concept. The stock screws rust very easily.

stem cover bolts (and bar to stem bolts) come in a kit w308017

rear brake cover bolts are W311088 for the pair of flanged-head bolts and W311089 for the longer button head bolt...only the former should need attention, as the latter was spec'd stainless from day one.

the bolt kit for the bars is 420693

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Carl Matson

Carl, I ordered a project one/speed concept. I was curious once my LBS receives the bike....how long does it usually take to build it up? Is it just a frame in a box with all the parts. Whats the scoop?

The one P1 build that I was personally involved with started as a bare frameset and a few boxes of parts. How long it takes to get from that to a rolling bike really depends on how experienced the builder is and how busy the shop is. The wrench who has umpteen SC9s behind him/her and nothing else on deck is in a different world from the midwinter one-man-show with a backlog of Christmas gift tuneups facing the first SC P1 in the shop's history.

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Carl Matson

Hi Carl,

Are the replacement stainless bolts black or silver in colour? I'm referring to the stem cover bolts and the bolt kit for the bars. I asked my LBS to change mine over but the bolts are all still black? Is that correct or did my LBS forget to change all my bolts to stainless?

Thanks

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"I swim because that's how I get to ride my bike."

Everything currently in inventory should've been changed over from the original materials and coatings. This would include some black stainless and some other black corrosion resistant coatings.

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Carl Matson

2012 SC 7.8

Just for info - I tried fitting Continental GP triathlon tyres to my SC but found the front brake clearance was inadequate and was causing some tyre rubbing on the caliper. You could just about dial it out by slackening the brake cable and opening out the caliper a bit which creates a bit more clearance at the top but it was too marginal for comfort. I've put the Bonti R3's back on for now.

http://www.bikeradar.com/...iathlon-tyres-23136/

I've used these on my '05 Madone and they seem a good compromise between puncture resistance and performance.


A couple of quick questions:

Anybody found a good tough tyre that performs well and fits the SC? How tough are the R3's? For me, puncture resistance is more important than performance.

If I want to change the aero bar extensions, can I get the cable out of the Sram 500 shifters without disconnecting them at the derailleur ends?

How well does the SRAM Force chainset/cassette perform with Di2? I'm hoping to try ultegra Di2 if they ever make TT shifters for it.

Thanks - and great thread, but wish it was indexed!!

I just got fit for my 2011 SC 7.5 because of some shoulder pain I was having my fitter suggested that my arm pads be a bit wider. We kicked them out as far as they can go with the stock handle bars but it's still a little close. Is there another bracket that I might be able to use for a slightly wider fit? I've included my fit measurements in my profile (hopefully I put them in correctly). Current fit is a very conservative comfortable fit for longer distance races.

Thanks!
Adam

Hello

I recently picked up my first Trek SC 7.0. While it was the best I could afford, I am very happy with the bike thus far. Looks amazing and rides fast. Sure it only has APEX group, but from what I understand, APEX is very good and is somewhere between Tiagra and 105.

Got some new wheels too. I am ready to have an even better 2012. Just wanted to chime in

J

I've got a 7.0 with the new (7.2) bolt fire the seatpost. I've got a decent about of carbon paste on the post but am still experiencing slipping. Any suggestions on what to do/ how to stop this? FWIW I weigh in at 190 and am working on dropping to 170.

Are you running narrow rims and 25mm tires? I'm not home to check right now but I can't see how the tire would be wide enough to interfere aside from initially getting it past the brake pads.


Are your cable housings run internal to the current extensions? If so you'll need to pull the cable completely out of the housing to get the housing out of the extension and then use a new set of cables. You probably have to pull the rear brake caliper to thread the new cables to the derailleurs. If the housings are not run through the extensions you can just pull the shifters off the extensions and swap in new extensions - assuming you are keeping roughly the same length.

Hard to imagine the new clamp at max torque spec still allowing slipping. If that's the current situation I'd have the shop work with our customer service dept to get a replacement post (and have the current one returned here so we can see it).

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Carl Matson

Then I guess its off to the shop I go! Thanks