Why not just get a new freehub body and use the 11-speed cassette?
http://www.reynoldscycling.com/...ssory&p_item=728

Not so easy. If you get a new freehub body you have to change the dishing of the wheel to keep the wheel in the center of the frame....if not it will be a few mm off to the left of the frame (looking from the back) and you will have to pry the frame apart to get the axle in. All bad.

Do what Dark Speedworks said. Get rid of one cog. So you have 10 spacers, 10 Cogs and adjust the Rear Derailleur set screw to remove your click to the 11th cog (because it is not there and if you don't remove that click, you will shift your chain into the spokes.

Thanks for the info. I looked at the freehub body but wasn't sure so I'm glad I asked. This sounds like a good solution.

I would expect that Reynolds thought of those issues when they designed the conversion kit. I'm sure the spacing is correct and prying the frame apart would not be required. Dishing the wheel will only take a decent mechanic about 20 minutes if it's required. Not a big deal. I'd ask Reynolds.

Correct. It works perfectly -- no dishing required. I did it on a set of Assaults. easy-peasy.

OK fair enough....if you get a mechanic to re dish the wheel, then if should be fine. It's just not something that most of us an pull off.

This is the picture you care about with all the measurements for the re dishing exercise. You need to dish in by 1.8mm. On your non drive side there is also an axle adjustment you can see to get the total "stack" to 131 mm vs 130mm



If you end up with your wheel not centered between the chain stays, the bike will technically pull one way and you will have excessive tire wear because your sit bones won't be evenly placed above the rear wheel center line. You'll be a mm or so off. That does not sound like a lot, but I think it is.

Quick question. Is the Reynolds free hub 36.75mm or 34.95mm? If it is just 34.95mm with a longer groove for the cogs, then yes it will work. It will just have less metal in between the last cog and spokes on the free hub. I know some people have machined Shimano 34.95 10 speed free hubs to make room for an 11th cog, but I am told this is not leaving enough metal remaining and you can have a catastrophic failure (probably unlikely given the direction of forces). If it is 36.75, then you need to re dish to properly have your wheel sit square inside the frame and not be offset to one side.

It should work fine.

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No idea. all I know is that I bought the freehub that they (Reynolds) say is for the Assaults. They give you new end caps to use, and it is such that no dishing is required.

This -- I assume -- would be the same for the wheels that the OP is asking about (they are listed on the Reynolds site for that part)

This is the picture you care about with all the measurements for the re dishing exercise. You need to dish in by 1.8mm. On your non drive side there is also an axle adjustment you can see to get the total "stack" to 131 mm vs 130mm

The 11spd cassette is 2.85mm wider.

If Reynolds supplies endcaps that increase spacing to 131mm, plus moves the cassette stack 1.35mm closer to the spokes and 1mm closer to the DS dropout, then it will still be centered. That's only possible with hubs that were poorly optimized for 10spd. I don't know if this is what they actually do, but some manufacturers can get away with it.

There are a lot of "ifs" in this which, in essence was what I was trying to point to. I bet you a lot of folks are riding around without their wheels not properly centered between the chain stays.

it is off by like 0.5 mm. Not enough to notice ... for me anyway. I swap wheels and notice no difference in shifting or braking.

There should be zero affect on shifting and almost none on braking. tire wear should be affected though. You may also not notice that you are compensating with your body for a slight offset. What happens when you ride no hands. You may notice a small difference then? Maybe not?

We have a machinist in town who is milling out.....IIRC 1.8 mm on the cassette, we have had zero problems so far but you need the cassette with the last three rivited.

Not to say you won't have problems....he is also a cyclist and is charging 50$ per cassette. I don't have 11 speed, so far it is working for those that do.

Maurice

had the same problem with a new 11speed Shimano Drivetrain last week and older 404's.
I am just using my Campi 11speed setup and it works almost flawless. (see Lennard Zinn)
So just get a Campi Freehub body and a Chorus C.
In my case I did not have to spend any money so it was a no brainer

What???? You've got to be kidding. Are you theorizing this or do you have actual experience with a bike pulling to one side because of being off dish by that much. Because I can assure you there is no way you would actually be able to tell the difference. In any case, I converted my zipps and did the redish myself. It took exactly 10 minutes. A half turn on each spoke both ds and nds and the dish was back to center.

We have a machinist in town who is milling out.....IIRC 1.8 mm on the cassette, we have had zero problems so far but you need the cassette with the last three rivited.
Not to say you won't have problems....he is also a cyclist and is charging 50$ per cassette. I don't have 11 speed, so far it is working for those that do.

I'm not surprised that it works most of the time, but it definitely won't work on every hub and derailleur.

This is a not a bad idea, and it was one I considered. But it has some downsides.

First, you can't ever use that cassette again on another wheel that is 11 speed, or at least not without having to get some kind of spacer(s) to add back the material that was just removed. The easy hybrid cassette method we outlined still allows an instant way to go back to an 11 speed cassette (just add in the removed cog). Second, when you mill that last cog carrier down, the backside of that cassette now becomes essentially concave. For some wheels, that is not a problem regarding cog vs spoke clearance, or RD/chain vs spoke clearance. But there is another problem: for many wheels (some zipps that I measured, for example), the cog carrier's alloy or composite "arms" will rub or hit (or have extremely tight clearance with) the hub body itself. And that is not good.

So my advice would be to first mount the largest cog carrier of your proposed 11-speed cassette on your proposed 10-speed wheel and check to see if you can spare 1.8mm of movement toward the driveside before you try to mill material off your 11-speed cassette. Check spoke clearance, chain clearance, and check hub body clearance.

Greg @ dsw

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Good timing. Did it today with an Ultegra 11-28. Spacer behind and dropped the 14.

Followed the DSW instructions and it's perfect with an 11 speed system on a 10 speed hub.

But I want to use an 11-32 and don't want to jump from 13 to 16 or 16 to 20.

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I have machined 1.8mm from the back of Ultegra cassettes several times. As long as you have spoke/derailleur clearance in first you will be fine. It is easily done in a lathe and is literally only 5 minutes work. $50 sounds pretty steep for doing it.

Maybe, it works best with flat discs and goes down from there. If you have a race wheel which is now more or less useless then 50$ is very much worth a flyer. As others have said it won't work on all wheels, i don't think it will work on my stinger disc for example but perhaps on others like tri-spoke rear or other narrow 38 or 90 rear should be ok.

Personally i think 50$ is very reasonable if it works.

Maurice

I used the DSW hack on an 11-32 for my 10 Flo disc and it worked perfectly. I removed the 13 cog, as by the time I'm shifting through that end of the cassette, it's usually on a downhill and I don't notice the bigger jumps.

I have machined 1.8mm from the back of Ultegra cassettes several times. As long as you have spoke/derailleur clearance in first you will be fine. It is easily done in a lathe and is literally only 5 minutes work. $50 sounds pretty steep for doing it.

I'm really surprised no one has gone into business. Make a web page, get the word out... easy.

Get Ultegra cassettes from Ribble for $50. Sell machined ones for $99. Maybe even provide a money back guarantee if it doesn't fit.

Anybody got a good lathe for sale?

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