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Cheap and Easy Way to Save a few Watts
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Not sure if this has been mentioned on here before, but there is a cheap and easy way to save a bit of aero power by filling the area between your tyre and your rim.

As has been shown by several different studies, bulbous tyres (i.e that exceed the width of the rim) are generally to be avoided as they make the oncoming air detach and become turbulent over the rim.

Anything that can smooth the transition from tyre to rim is of benefit, and this is why Mavic created the CX01 blades, specifically to fill this gap.

But if you'd rather not shell out thousands on a new, full Mavic wheelset, you can do it on the cheap!

The video below shows how to use silicone to fill the gap and create a smoother interface.

This may not get you on the next podium, but it may save you a watt or two!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3eIZdhSu1ts
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Re: Cheap and Easy Way to Save a few Watts [bernithebiker] [ In reply to ]
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That's actually rather brilliant. I'd like to see how it goes out on the road, where the tyre is deforming and doing all kinds of dynamic things.

And how do you clean it, when you need to change your tyres out? I'm not familiar with silicone gels.

'It never gets easier, you just get crazier.'
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Re: Cheap and Easy Way to Save a few Watts [bernithebiker] [ In reply to ]
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I field-tested this approach once, but could not detect any benefit. I also found the old Bontrager Aerowing TT tires to be aerodynamically indistinguishable from equally-narrow tires that lacked the little lip designed to fill the tire-rim junction. Thus, if there is any benefit it must be quite small.
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Re: Cheap and Easy Way to Save a few Watts [georged] [ In reply to ]
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georged wrote:
That's actually rather brilliant. I'd like to see how it goes out on the road, where the tyre is deforming and doing all kinds of dynamic things.

And how do you clean it, when you need to change your tyres out? I'm not familiar with silicone gels.

Silicone is flexible and can deform quite happily as the tyre contacts the road.

I've been running my wheels like this for several months now and the silicone is still in excellent condition.

I use tubs, so when the tub is worn out, I just rip it off and if the silicone needs redoing, scrape it off. It comes off pretty easily, certainly a lot easier than tub glue!

Also, silicone is non-corrosive or aggressive (again, certainly much less than tub glue!) so no problems as far as carbon goes.
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Re: Cheap and Easy Way to Save a few Watts [Andrew Coggan] [ In reply to ]
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Andrew Coggan wrote:
I field-tested this approach once, but could not detect any benefit. I also found the old Bontrager Aerowing TT tires to be aerodynamically indistinguishable from equally-narrow tires that lacked the little lip designed to fill the tire-rim junction. Thus, if there is any benefit it must be quite small.

Given that the aero gain will be fairly small (a handful of watts at best), this will be indetectable out on the road. Just one decent gust of wind will ruin any back to back to testing over 20 or 40km say.

I think it's generally accepted that gains of less than about 5 watts are going to be almost impossible to 'detect' on the road. However, that doesn't mean that they aren't there!
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Re: Cheap and Easy Way to Save a few Watts [bernithebiker] [ In reply to ]
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Time trialists have been doing this for years. It's a few watts, not sure about what happens when you need to change the tire fast....
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Re: Cheap and Easy Way to Save a few Watts [EnderWiggan] [ In reply to ]
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It will flex with every rotation so there will also be rolling losses.
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Re: Cheap and Easy Way to Save a few Watts [bernithebiker] [ In reply to ]
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bernithebiker wrote:
Andrew Coggan wrote:
I field-tested this approach once, but could not detect any benefit. I also found the old Bontrager Aerowing TT tires to be aerodynamically indistinguishable from equally-narrow tires that lacked the little lip designed to fill the tire-rim junction. Thus, if there is any benefit it must be quite small.

Given that the aero gain will be fairly small (a handful of watts at best), this will be indetectable out on the road. Just one decent gust of wind will ruin any back to back to testing over 20 or 40km say.

I think it's generally accepted that gains of less than about 5 watts are going to be almost impossible to 'detect' on the road. However, that doesn't mean that they aren't there!

More like <1.5 W:

http://www.trainingandracingwithapowermeter.com/...dynamicists.html?m=1

You're right, though, there could - in fact, based on Kyle's wind tunnel testing ~20 ago, should - be a small benefit. Emphasis on "small", however. (I also found that the silicone didn't stick very well, but that was on rubberized sidewalls of clinchers, not the fabric sidewalls of tubulars.)
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