and note, it only seems ridiculous until you've worn custom shoes or ridden with a custom saddle. There's no going back and as for buyer's-remorse, my interest in the tri shoes should show that there's no remorse, I'm sold and sticking to custom shoes. I anticipate my road shoes lasting 10 years, and if I get a second set for triathlon, these two set of shoes will last the rest of the cycling life. I'm also having the saddle made with a pretty robust carbon layup with some high quality, thick leather leather stretched over it, so I also anticipate the saddle, along with the shoes, sticking with me for a very long time.

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There are some major differences between this prototype and any single Dash or ISM saddle. See below image comparisons.


Here's a video of the process: https://www.youtube.com/...amp;feature=youtu.be

So, the Simmons custom saddle has the length of the Dash Tri.7 (see bottom pic comparing shorter Tri.7 to the Tri.9 - the same length as all of the Dash saddle outlines shown below). The Simmons has the 'wings' of the Strike, but starting further back to prevent thigh rub, and not as wide; it has the opening of the ISM Road for getting/leaning really far forward, like when attacking off the front. The rear of the Simmons saddle is signifcantly more narrow than the ISM Road and only about 12mm wider than the rear of the Tri.7, though I wonder if the final iteration will have a more gradual sweep back for the wings to ensure thigh clearance - I'm basing this off of a youtube video; will know a lot more once it's mounted in a couple of days. I anticipate the opening on the front of the Simmons to remain the same, but the outer edges on the front 2cm of the saddle to come in about 2mm each, narrowing the 'noses' of the saddle while not narrowing the opening between the 'noses'. The added channel on this Simmons saddle shell would work really well with Dash's combo seatpost, just drill some holes to bolt onto the seatpost.... though, I probably need the cushion of the rails, riding a 1st gen Scott Foil and all.


<--- two more views of the Simmons saddle prototype

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I am making shoes. They are not going to be as pretty as Simmons, but they should be fully functional. It will take a while to finish them, but here is what I have so far.

I first made a bunch of plaster cloth molds of my feet in various configurations (negative). I decided to make the shoes around a mold of my feet where I am wearing toe spacers, to make sure my toes have enough room. Once the negative dried, I put it in a bucket of sand, and filled it with liquid plaster of paris. Once this set, I peeled the negative off the positive. I used wall repair joint compound to make some adjustments to the positive, sanded it to the shape I liked. Then I laid the carbon fiber around the plaster of paris positive. In retrospect, I should have painted the positive with a non-stick layer to make it easier to remove the dried plaster from the shoe at the end. Vacuum bagging was tricky because not until the last (8th?) bag did I manage to make one that did not leak. Practice makes perfect! I plan to use oxalic acid and baking soda to remove the last of the plaster from the shoe, then sand/finish, put a polyurethane coating around it, glue some fabric/fleece around the edges (I don't plan to line the inside, no need IMO), and glue on a single velcro strap on the top.

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I laid 2 layers of CF before attaching the cleat holder. I used epoxy dough to attach it.
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I laid 2 more layers on top of the cleat holders.
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Awesome! Keep us up to date :)

I am in the same process, but not as far along as I am piecing everything together bit by bit. Where did you find the baseplate for the cleats? I have only found one or two and they only have one mounting option. I noticed Simmons uses an aluminum plate where it gives you multiple position options, I was trying to find something similar to that but I guess they probably make those in house.

I am also planning on adding othe mounting locations to add pieces to the bottom to make it easier to walk in. I will also be lining the whole inside of the shoe and possibly adding drainage/air vents to them as well.

Are you planning on going sockless or are you wearing socks? If your wearing them, did you account for them in the molding process? Also did you mold your foot using STS casting socks? Weighted or unweighted on the foot.

I found a good site that has a good price on the casting socks and I did my first mold with weight placed on the foot after standing on a foam mat. I am now at the point of finishing the mold off (adding some to it to account for socks and felt liner), and also waiting on CF to arrive and my new vacuum pump and bagging supplies

I molded my feet barefoot with regular plaster cast wrap (its like $8 for an 8" wide roll that is enough for both of my feet). Problem is because toes are so easily compressed, no matter how I tried to keep it loose around the toes, the positive ended up with toes too crowded. So I put my toe spacers on, and then wrapped around that. I did what Simmons and other companies recommend: sitting in a stool, with my foot on a semi-soft surface (folded towel), partially weighing the foot down, making sure kneecap was over 2nd toe and leg as much straight up/down as I could eyeball. From what I can tell from trying the shoes on, it feels pretty good in the toe box. I plan to wear them sockless. I will probably drill some vent holes in the bottoms.

The baseplate is the plastic adapter plate that came with my Speedplay pedals. I figured it is better to try to epoxy plastic to the CF, and not worry about any metal- resin-CF interface.

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I love those cleat mounts! Awesome!

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Update.

The pics don't do these justice! It is hard to take pictures of slightly lumpy and very shiny things. I can put them on by pinching each side and spreading a little and force my feet in, takes about 3 seconds per shoe. They are quite secure and need a bit of pushing at the heel to get off. I am not sure it will need any straps attached, they are quite secure as it is. I am waiting for new cleats, and will try it without straps. I like how simple they are. 224grams/pair without cleats.

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This is really cool, Are you using Correct Toes toe spacers in these?

Very cool. I'm tempted to try my own hand at building something similar.

I used toe spacers when casting my feet. Then I filed down the last to a smooth shape, removing the outlines of the toe spacers, and also removing the pinky toe (so in the shoe, my pinky toe is around where the last toe spacer would be). This way the shoes fit nice but not too tight without squishing my toes (but not with toe spacers on).

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Looking at them a lot closer, your foot doesnt pull out of them on the up stroke or do you mostly mash?

With mine, I am thinking about having them come up about an inch or so above where the toes begin, still have some overlap on the top part of the foot and have a strap across the top. My hope is to vary the thickness of the layers to get some flexibility out of the top portion but still be stiff enough to hold my foot solidly in place.

I guess my big thing is I have been working a lot on using my upstroke and I would worry my feet would pull from the shoe with that little over the top part, maybe I am wrong though.

They do look good though, and im sure with some practice you could make them look a lot closer to the professionally made shoes, I just hope mine turn out just as good.

I have tried them a couple times the last two days. Can't ride too much coz my shoulder is hurt.

I do not "pull" on the upstroke, but only push. The mid part of the foot would pull up out of the shoe if I did, but just pushing it stays in very solid. You can do the "mud sweep" at the bottom of the stroke and the heel stays in solid. I found that I needed to cut the front (and sides) down this far to be able to shimmy my feet in without too much pain/effort. The sides and front are 2 CF layers thick, and are likely too rigid. The sole is 2 layers on both sides of the cleat mount plate (4 layers total), and it feels very rigid and good power transfer.


My foot was sliding too much forward while riding and my 3-4th toes jammed up against the front (my other 3 toes were very happy!) So today I stuck some skateboard tape on the inside and this helps a lot from preventing foot sliding forward. It is slightly more difficult to put them on because now that part of the sole is "sticky", but the ride quality is much improved. No strap for now (haven't thought of a clever way of attaching one yet).

Mods I would do if I made another pair: keep the sole 4 layers thick, probably use 3 layers in the sole between the foot and cleat holder, and 1 layer over the cleat holder, use only 1 layer around the sides/heel/toe box and then could maybe make it come up higher in the front and still get into it, and mount the cleat holder farther out lateral (to allow for a narrower Q factor).

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what kind of CF did you use? (weight, strand count, etc)

I do not have the slightest clue.

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Where did you get it from?

Some from Amazon, some from LeapTech/iLLStreet on the interwebs.

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They should have told you the fabric weight and strand count

Weight: 5.7osy
Weave: 2x2 Twill Carbon Fiber
Tow Size: 3K
Thickness: .010"

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Pretty much what I was planning on using, maybe I was planning was a bit overkill

I think it's cool what you are doing.

Did you consider cutting the opening a bit so you can get your foot in easier, and making a molded carbon piece that goes over the top of your foot? You could hing it on one side with flexible material and use velcro or a ratchet to cinch it.

I can get it on in 2 sec (but need two hands).
I haven't yet thought of a clever way to attach a top strap.
For now, I have put a couple of strips of skateboard tape into the sole, and they do a fair job of not letting my feet slide too far forward.
There is a little pressure on the tips of the 4th toes as I ride, but this is a good trade off of the 1. squished together toes (especially the big toe) 2. turf toe (pain base of the big toe from the upwards toe position due to the toe spring) and 3. foot numbness that I have always gotten in regular bike shoes. I have not noticed any big gain or loss of power by switching to them (I have done 3 rides around 45 mins each so far in them on the trainer).

They are sweaty on the soles, and I need to drill some vent holes in them.

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Looks like you did a pretty good job, and something I might have to attempt

Any suggestions you would make or things you would do differently? I have worked with fiberglass before but never carbon fiber or a vacuum pump, looks like it would just take some practice on smaller projects to start.

I haven't yet thought of a clever way to attach a top strap.

I envision the "strap" as a molded carbon piece, not too thick or rigid. A flexible "hinge" would connect this to the sole.