Out of curiosity, when clipped in, how do you see a pedal's "bulk" as affecting aerodynamics?

Agreed.

However, I don't blame the average customer for thinking like this.
With companies like Speedplay marketing and offering aero versions of their pedals that claim gains over a standard version, a person would be forgiven for reasoning that there are potential losses in going with something bulkier.

Greater frontal area almost always equals greater drag unless you improve flow over the body (i.e., reduce Cd), which it doesn't appear that the powertap pedals do. So why wouldn't they increase drag over a lower profile pedal? The pedals definitely look taller to me, or is it just the photo angles I've seen?

Seriously interested in these. As much as I like Powertap hubs (I have 3), the small but noticeable difference in calibration between hubs drives me nuts. I'd really like to be able to use the same device on all bikes, and I have different BB's, so Quarq is out.

Let's hope for some good Black Friday sales or at least a price drop for Christmas.

Again, while riding the bike, what part of the pedal do you think sees any air? What part of your pedal/foot's frontal area is increased while you're actually riding?

If anything a "bulkier" pedal may actually improve aerodynamics due to some sort of trailing edge effect, but I doubt it.

Are there no conversion BBs for your bikes? If you converted them all to GXP or 24mm Shimano, swapping would be simple. But you do have the added cost of the BB for each bike.

I've had mine for about three weeks now and absolutely love them. My bike stable has grown and this is as easy as it gets when it comes to swapping between bikes.

Regarding aerodynamics, it is of a slight concern to me. I intend to go to the tunnel at some point this fall and that's one of the things I'd like to test (vs my Keo Blade 2 pedals).

Hmm, still not convinced in either way. Look at this image from
Dcrainmaker. Yes, toe pointing down should hide most of ithe airflow but I am still not sure. It is a hell of a big thing under that foot.

I can't comment on the aero perspective. I wish I had a set of Look pedals, then I take some side by side pics and measure front area for you. I have SPD's...same-ish style?
Usage so far - only one complaint: battery life. Eneloops (NiMH) have been my go to battery for years. Maybe my charger isn't topping them off, but I get terrible life out of them. Anywhere between 45 minutes (!) to 5-6 rides (~10-20 hours) has been my range so far. So far, my best run has been about a third of the quoted 60 hour life. I've chatted with tech support and they suggest lithium batteries. I haven't grabbed any of those yet, but the duracell alkalines I have in there now are going well, but with only 1 hour into them.

I have 2 friends who also have them. Neither use Eneloops (one uses energizer lithiums and I'm not sure about the other). They have had much better luck in that regard.

Last time I switched them between bikes, one was bolted onto a trainer and the other was in a fork stand. I timed it at under 3 minutes. I wasn't in a rush, wasn't going for a record...that is simply how long it takes to switch em. If you bump the crank, you'll get a little greasy, but that's rare.

I think you're reaching

That would be a waste of 2-4 runs (0 and 10 degrees for each pedal, maybe). Testing that would cost you about $100 and would be absolutely worthless.

I've been riding them a couple of weeks. They have been working as advertised. The only slight thing I see is sometimes my edge 1000 says missing right sensor but it doesn't seem to affect any data. (I'm pretty sure the right talks to the left)

I never even though about the aero profile and not worried about it. Too many other things affect my slowness :D

Have a look at any side shot of a time trialist with a foot at 90 deg. Toe is not pointed down, and pedal is fully-exposed. No doubt frontal area is increased over a low-profile pedal. How much it matters? Could be just as measurable as some of the other minutia we fuss over.

Not really my concern, but I wouldn't discount it vs. the wrinkles on a jersey or carrying one vs. two behind the seat bottles.

at my fitness level I am more concern to train consistently with a PM that i can swap between bikes easily and give me correct power values.

but if u are the top 1% then MAYBE it would be worth it to test them at the tunnel.

---

The entire event (IM) is like "death by 1000 cuts" and the best race is minimizing all those cuts and losing less blood than the other guy. - Dev

I have used them now for several weeks.

Great pedal, works as advertised. Set up is smooth and data is consistent (no spikes for me). The Garmin (910xt) reads missing right pedal, but it is not the case with the results or live data I get during the ride...not an issue.

As far as aero....not an issue or concern for me. Unless I was trying to set a new world record, or a paid athlete who could finish on the podium I can't see how this is an issue. If I sit up out of aero position on a Tri bike once during a race I eliminate any advantages you would have "potentially" gained with something else.

Great product.

Been using them only on stationary bike while using Wahoo Kickr and using 920XT to record data.

I run the Kickr in ergmode, i notice the P1 are always 10-15watts lower than Kickr steady readings.

At this point i am still attributing it to 920xt not having the crank length setting in yet and i run 170mm cranks, P1 assumes 172.5 due to 920xt default.

I also see about at least 1-2 drops from the P1 to 920XT about every 30-45min ride for about 1-2sec.

Not seeing any spikes.

---

2016:
IMFL #12
http://www.bestbikesplit.com

I've read the "right pedal missing" is actually a bug on Garmin's end. Patch coming soon. Power balance still displays correctly fwiw.

Not really a bug but with Garmin Vector the right pedal is the master en the left the slave. For the P1 is the other way therefore you get the message.

KICKR is always 15w higher than my other power meters.

Has anyone used the standard Look Keo cleats with the P1's? I have a favorite pair of race shoes where the cleat bolts are so rusted on I highly doubt I can remove them. I have heard a mixture of answers and just looking to see if there are any other data points out there.

I used the standard Look Keo cleats with the P1's when my P1's first arrived because like you, the bolts were so rusted that I couldn't remove them myself. Eventually I got around to stopping by my LBS and had them help me replace the cleats, but only after a few rides. Initially, I didn't notice any difference using the Look Keo with the P1's, other than mentally I worried that I was putting my own safety at risk. I probably could have continue to use my old cleats with no problem, but when I got the new cleats that the P1's came with on, the cleats snaps on and off the P1's easier, and I felt that there was less floating around when riding. Just my 2 cents...

There's very good reasons cyclists look down on triathletes, getting hung up on aero drag from your pedals and going into a tunnel to test them epitomises how far from reality triathletes have let marketing pull them.

I don't ride with triathletes anymore because for the vast majority they will look for the 1% before working on the 99% through training.

Are you riding a <4:20 180km bike split? No, then just ride harder and worry about tiny insignificant factors like your pedals drag when you are at the top 0.1% based on fitness alone.

Any decent roadie will drop a triathlete with ease and will do so without even considering the drag of an exposed cable or length of their bottle tube! Yes aero is important but FFS don't get so hung up on it that you lose sight of reality.

---

I learned a long time ago that the only pertinent information you offer is found within the last sentence.

Well then they're working harder than they have to. Idiots.