A new frame isn't going to change anything about seizing up rear brakes, front derailleurs and bottom brackets.

Go ride outside, problem solved!

I may give you a run for your money. My sweating situation is the close to yours. I took my bike into the shop for a pre-race tune/checkup and the bike shop worker came out after his look over and proceeded to scold me (yell) for lack of maintenance -- pointing out all the salt in every crevice. I calmly took it and then proceeded to tell him that the bike had a FULL rebuild 3 weeks prior and he was looking at 3 weeks of riding (with external wipe downs after rides). I will lose 4+ pounds (64+ oz) in an hour of riding in 80+ degree tempo riding. Indoors at 65 degrees + fans I will lose 2-3 pounds per hour (32-48 ozs). I LAUGH at articles talking about hydrating (like 24-32 oz an hour recommendations).

Living in the north east - not possible in the winter.

Though thanks.

---

http://www.athlinks.com/athletes/208730390

 
If you do get a new bike, keep the old one as a trainer bike and destroy that bike.

Have you tried one of those sweat catcher deals that attaches to the bars and the seat and catches the sweat before it gets to the bike?

I sweat heavily too, I typically drape a towel over the bars and down the top tube to catch sweat. I try to keep it out of the headset and stem area, but I train on a roadie in the winter.

Do your components seize up like mine?
I swear I have spent more than the bike was worth in maintenance on this thing.
The kicker is that with it being Bont/Trek - Everything is proprietary and costs beaucoup $$$.

I searched the forum and saw some people will spray down their bike with a hose after long races and rides.
Is that really well advised?

---

http://www.athlinks.com/athletes/208730390

I agree that a new frame or anything won't help, but sometimes riding outside is worse for corrosion than riding inside if you live somewhere with a cold winter.


If it's trainer rides that are the issue, your best bet is probably to buy a junkier bike for just the trainer, and set it up in the same position as your speed concept. It wouldn't even need any breaks or front derailleur to get corroded. You could also try and monitor how sweat gets into your bottom bracket, and wrap whatever is near in some kind of absorbing cloth so sweat can't drip.

I do have the Allez Elite sitting around for winter trainer time...
Think you might be on to something there...

The bike goes for 2G - 2.2G in good condition on BlueBook so I don't think riding my TT into the ground is a good business decision.
If it was a roadie that I had second hand I would agree with you for sure.

As for catchers - I had a catcher from CycleOps - but what was happening - I would sweat so much - the towel section would saturate and then ride down the elastic section and go right into the down tube. This in turn leads to the sweat dripping into the rear brake housing and the crank/bb section.
So I opted for the 2 towels idea for now. Which is a little better. But my rear brake locked up doing Muskoka. Always happens on race day.

The down tube roll down was where my thought that maybe a different geometry from a different bike might be viable.

---

http://www.athlinks.com/athletes/208730390

You might be on to something -
Perhaps a bike that is easier to work with (taking brake components off on trainer rides.)
Dis assembling the trek is a PITA.
Im a technical guy but I also do this as a stress reliever - not a stressor.
The last thing I want to do is have to become a wizard at attaching and detatching parts to this thing.
Id rather drink the crossfit koolaid than suffer through that...

---

http://www.athlinks.com/athletes/208730390

 
Might be worth just switching to the Allez then for winter training. You can save the Trek for outdoor riding. As long as you have enough opportunity to ride the Trek outside before racing it, it shouldn't be too big a deal to train on a roadie in the winter.

I tend to use my cross bike on the trainer. I don't like clamping my fancy carbon bike into the trainer and then sweating all over it. My cross bike is aluminum and is meant to be abused so I use that then switch to the nice bike when I can go back outside.

Yeah I am on the same page.
My first coach was adamant that you "train on the bike you are going to race"
Which to my thought went "but I sweat like the best of them..."

I was saving the Allez to possibly get into crits but it hasnt happened yet.

Any transitioning issues from your Roadie to the Racer?
The geometry is very different but I am sure a good fit could remedy that.
Still a little reluctant.

The B-Side to all of this.
Still debating an upgrade. But maybe let it be a trophy to just ride outside.
Keep it safe from my face piss.

---

http://www.athlinks.com/athletes/208730390

You should be able to exactly match your TT position on your road bike, it will just be ugly and have bad handling, but that doesn't matter on the trainer. If you use an adjustable stem you should be able to get any position you might need. For the saddle position, I've flipped a setback seatpost around and it worked fine, although some seatposts may not work depending on the range of angles they support.

You will hear differing opinions on this, but the people who know what they are talking about IMO say you can train on a roadie in a roadie position and then move to the TT position before a race and be fine. I know of some damn fast triathletes who train year round on the roadie, then before a big race they will switch to the TT bike for a few long rides. It is really just about making sure your back and neck can handle the position, maybe slight changes in leg muscles used but not a huge difference.

I am pure cyclist now, haven't done a tri since my IM in 2014 so I ride roadie year round. But I kept my P2C for stage races with time trials, I put a few hundred miles on it this year for various events. I went straight from all year on my roadie to a 65 mile race on the TT bike, no issues. It was actually a team time trial with 4 pure cyclists on TT bikes, none of us had any issues having ridden roadie all year up to that point.

I'd ride the Allez on the trainer then once you have your race season planned swap to the Trek say 3-4 weeks before a big race, hopefully you will be outside by then, but even if it is inside it will be less wear and tear on the Trek.

Or as the other poster said, you can make a roadie mimic the TT position with a forward seatpost and some clip on's if you are really set on training in the TT position.

This poses a new problem.
Allez is 10-Spd.
Kickr has 11spd cog.

Never an easy fix is it...

Guess Ill take the front Derail off and leave it in the big gear.
See if I can swap the front crank for anything at the shop.

Any advice on crank length?
There is definitely a difference.
I cant remember the total but I THINK the SC is 170 and the Allez is significantly longer. Like 185.

---

http://www.athlinks.com/athletes/208730390

Just slap an 11 speed chain on the Allez. It will work fine with your front chainrings and shouldn't be an issue with your rear derailleur.

I sweat a lot too. Keeping extra towels and skull caps within arm's reach of the trainer so I can switch them without getting off. Also cooling fans. Big fast fans.

Then after the ride clean the bike with a dry towel and compressed air. Done.

Start by getting a bigger fan or more fans. A 20" floor fan is maybe 4000CFM at best. To replicate even a 10mph headwind along a 3'x5' area, you need 10,000CFM. I have a 20" floor fan and I'm adding 2 wall mount fans as well to get close. You do get some mas air movement in the room, so the actual air moved is more than the rated CFM, FWIM. Point being that a ot more fans will help. Your internal thermostat is not happy with the rate of evaporation/heat removal so you sweat harder.

You might also put a dehumidifier in that room or consider a small portable AC unit you can duct outside. Anything to remove more heat and cool off the space.

---

TrainingBible Coaching
http://www.trainingbible.com

I sweat like you do. Maybe worse.

On the trainer, I use a sweat net. And a towel over the bars, shifters and headset. Also go through 1 full sized tower per hour. 1 fan if it's under 60. 2 over 70. I try o to ride the trainer if the garage is over 70, but that's not always possible. I've rusted titanium hardware on Super Record brakes that have never been on the trainer. There's more, but you get the idea.

I disagree with prior posters who say that a new frame won't help. My frames with full length/internal housing don't have the sticking rear brake issue. Yes I still wreck the bottom bracket and front detailers last about 2 years (with 5 bikes, that's one every 6 months...), but the brakes still work!

For your road bike, consider titanium. Also for exposed cables for rear brakes, consider running liner between the cable stops. That and teflon coated cables double the rear brake cable life.

You're on the cusp of my phobia: heat training.
I fall apart on hot races. And I dont want to get the room too cool.
The simulation of race day heat. Though I wonder how far this goes to start offering diminishing returns.
Melt my bike and be race ready - seize my bike up with my sweat.

---

http://www.athlinks.com/athletes/208730390

Sure it is.

Build up a cheap single speed for the trainer. You don't need brakes and with erg mode on the KICKR, you don't need derailleurs. Not much left to go wrong.

Teflon you say?
I can cook eggs after T1... I like it.

But I feel your frustration. Sucks to have to go to the shop and them know just by the look on my face the sweat broke something else.

Anyone who knows the SC series intimately knows that the rear brake is notorious for this seizing issue.

So I have to ask - what are you riding these days F+S?

---

http://www.athlinks.com/athletes/208730390

I have a single speed that I use as my commuter and ride every day it isn't iced over. Or snow on the ground.
Magic of living in Philly.

This year I might grab a Fat Bike or a MTB with some studded wheels incase we get snowed in again.

---

http://www.athlinks.com/athletes/208730390

It's counterproductive to adaptation to increase your FTP and overall fitness. There are some benefits similar to altitude training, but to do them correctly, they are very risky and involve raising your core temp to a point that could cause fatal results.

You only need heat adaptation maybe 2-3 week before a race at most. Leg fatigue or metabolic capacity should be your limiting factor, not ability to cool yourself or feeling overheated.

---

TrainingBible Coaching
http://www.trainingbible.com

Refrain from name calling -
I was dumb enough to do some of my 1hr workouts in a thick hoodie.
Lost 10lbs in an hour.
Wont do that again...

Though you did pique my interest.
Had a buddy use that training mask - how detrimental is that stuff?

---

http://www.athlinks.com/athletes/208730390

would a pre-workout drink higher in sodium cause one's body to noticeably retain more water during the workout or race?

I was curious of this too.

Tested with my INFINIT high salt long distance bike ride juice that I maturely named "Who farted?"
and I most definitely sweat right on cue as usual.
Every person is a little different so I dont say not to test this theory yourself.
Just telling you my outcome.

---

http://www.athlinks.com/athletes/208730390

Maybe I missed it, but has anyone suggested cleaning and lubing the bike and components more often?

jake

---

Get outside!

No - but we did cover that I am not comfortable dismantling the rear brake assembly.
Im technical but I dont want to do that for the SC7.5
The rear brake is not the simplest to work with.

That would have been my first thing if it was an easier bike to assemble and disassemble.

---

http://www.athlinks.com/athletes/208730390

Are you able to clean the bike during the winter? I understand that may be harder than it sounds with the cold weather. Not just as easy as taking it outside and hosing it off.

I really like the WD40 bike wash and their bike specific lube as well.

You don't necessarily need to take the brakes apart to clean and lube them. Just wiping them down with a cleaner and rag can help. Follow up with a drop or two of lube on the hinge joints and springs. That may help.

Just a thought. Not trying to talk you out of a new bike.

jake

---

Get outside!

This is kinda an extreme suggestion, but your problem sounds extreme.

Get an older aluminum tri bike that you can replicate your position on and has a screw in bottom bracket. Something like a cervelo P1 if it fits. Put a rear wheel, rear derailleur, single chain ring on a square taper crank and sealed bottom bracket. Put tons of anti-seize on it when you assemble it. Don't put any components on it that you don't need on the trainer. Schedule a hose down once a week and see how long that lasts you.

Buy a nice bike for outside and races.

Oh no its cool -
You brought up a totally viable solution. I dig.

I just know there will be times where I am squeezing the life out of a workout and need to rush to work from time to time.
And I KNOW I will slack off a few times and get back into this again with this bike.

Hosing it down outside is possible in the summer -
Winter not so much.

Maybe I need to talk with my bike shop about being a better bike owner.
I actually didnt think hosing down my bike would be a good idea. But since it doesnt have many electronic components. It might not be as outlandish as I initially thought.

Though they have talked me out of a Di2 upgrade on my current ride.
But could be due to them wanting to sell a new bike to me in the fall.

---

http://www.athlinks.com/athletes/208730390

This is where my head was at as of 15 minutes ago to be honest.
Though I was thinking of shopping around for toasted tri bikes with just a frame.
Shimano slammed their prices this year some getting a gearset would be cheap.

Could be a 1000$ fix.
Im all over that TriAnd Sell it FB page.
Replicating my fit might be the 2nd most expensive.

Though is it really worth it when I can just rip all the components off the Allez and just train on that?
Is it really worth that 1000$ or 45$ max for a 11spd chain on the Allez + Chain tool when I need to swap it if ever.

---

http://www.athlinks.com/athletes/208730390

Can you get your position on the allez? You are free to use silly components since handling isn't an issue (pointed out earlier). The big questions are can you get the seat far enough forward and the arm pads low enough? You can fix the seatpost issue flipping the seatpost around or getting a more offset seatpost. The head tube height might be a limiter....but adjustable stems are a possible solution. It would probably be the least expensive way to get something to work. And I'm not kidding, take the front derailleur off completely, strip the thing to the essentials. It can't rust if it isn't there!

For what its worth, you can probably get away with a few workouts before cleaning the bike.

Here is an example of how you can clean your bike with a hose or even just with a cleaner and a rag. Just remember to lubricate everything.

Clean

jake

---

Get outside!

Yeah 100% on the same page.
You dont need to shift gears or stop on the bike that goes nowhere.

Getting the fit close might be tricky but also might be doable.

Wonder how important the arm pads really would be.

---

http://www.athlinks.com/athletes/208730390

Ah its a whole bike brand...
I always just knew it as WD40 for car components etc.
Learning things I should have known...

---

http://www.athlinks.com/athletes/208730390

I'm in the train what you race boat.....but a replicated position on a trainer is the same thing as a race bike. Higher pads might not put the strain on your neck that lower pads might. You might notice different muscles being used as well and end up training ones you don't use on race day and not the ones you would use. Hard to say, but I would try to reproduce the position as accurately as possible for the best results.

WD40 Bike- These guys.

jake

---

Get outside!

Id hate to be my own guinea pig.
Though none of the ideas are bad.
Cleaning more regularly wouldn't be the worst idea in the world.

Just need to dabble in this beater TT or the roadie approach.
Maybe I can find a bike that was crashed in Triand Sell it. :-)

---

http://www.athlinks.com/athletes/208730390

I am trying to wash my bike once a week, just hose it down, wipe it dry, and lube the chain. Bike spends most of it's life on the trainer, usually a couple rides a week outdoors.

Did you just always do that - or did you start having the same problems I did and then started washing it up?

---

http://www.athlinks.com/athletes/208730390

I started doing that about a year ago after I had to replace a headset with a hammer and chisel on my old bike due to the salt and corrosion that was built up. When I got a new bike earlier this year it gave me a lot more motivation to keep it up.

LOL@ hammer and chizzle
I know the feeling.

My mechanics hate me when I come in and say "I did it again " with a sad face.

Maybe its time to get that WD and look at some wrecked TTs.
Still dont want to ignore buying something Di2.
I would LOVE to stop paying for tune ups...

---

http://www.athlinks.com/athletes/208730390

If you want a new bike, buy a new bike ... ;-)

Other than that, replace boots with Ti or stainless.

Tape towels around tubes that can allow sweat to run down them. These are only an emergency defence if you don't swap your primary towels quick enough.

Think of sweat like battery acid - very searching at first and then gets more aggressive as evaporation kicks in. Would you just wipe battery acid off your skin (have you tried it ?) or do you rinse it away to dilute it ? Apply the same mentality to your bike ... :-)

WD :-)

Yes I replace most of the parts you mention every year. My bike shop still doesnt believe how much I sweat. They are in disbelief.

I do hose down my bike occasionally but like you I often dont have time to do this after every ride. Or the time/experience/confidence to dissemble my components regularly and clean them. And dont have the money to have my LBS do this every month. It's cheaper to just replace the components once a year. (but stil not cheap)

Another tactic I use is I have a fan blow full strength at my from the side and a towel on the floor on the other side. It literally pushes my sweat off to the side. You do this to the opposite side from where your derailer/chain is. I also will put a small rag on bottom bracket to soak sweat there before it gets into the bracket.

Have you considered using Boeshield on your calipers and bottom brackets? It's a rust and oxidization inhibitor developed by Boeing a few decades ago for the aerospace industry. Coupled with a good rinse off of the bike every few days, it might help to solve your problem. It comes in an aerosol can that you could use to spray the need areas. I'd suggest removing the wheels and covering the brake pads prior to spraying the calipers.

I recommend a dedicated bike for the trainer. That is easily maintainable. Ive got an sc7.5 too and it sits like a trophy on my wall until race day. I use a specialized transition pro permanently fixed to my trainer , I think 2012. Its fitted to the exact same measurments as my sc and it feels fine. The most important thing other than a good cleaning using break or contact cleaner during your recovery week is to drench your components with "corrosion block" . Dont know if you live near the coast but your local marine center should carry it. If not try "West Marine" online. This stuff formes a barrier unlike any other. If you cant find any , another product Ive used in a pinch which also works extreamly well but smells bad is PJ-1 chain wax for motocross bikes. Ive used both of these products religiously to protect critical hydraulic components exposed to relentless salt spray and heat on a commercial vessle. Much more than you could ever produce sweating.

I have seen this before from some athletes and it's hard to keep up with the maintenance.

I know it's a pain in the ass but it will help, after a trainer ride and the bike is all sweaty I would recommend rinsing the bike off with water, soap suds, rinse, dry and then applying some oil. This should help slow the corrosion of these parts and help them last longer. Salt is the worst thing for eating away at all these expensive bike parts.

Maybe look at some lanolin spray or marine grade corrosion protection spray to apply after the wash. Just be sure to not use to much on your chain or get it on your braking surfaces.

A clean bike is a fast bike and will last longer. It will take 5-10 minutes rinsing the bike off.

Hope this helps.

---

JImmy Seear
Co-Founder Ventum
http://www.ventumracing.com

Currently I have a Giant TCR Advanced for the trainer, crit and road racingracing. A Lynsey Helix and an older Litespeed Ultimate. A Collage C59 because I always wanted a Collage, so I got it when I retired. A Shiv Tri for TT's. 10p Ultegra di2 on the Giant. Chorus on the Ultimate, Super Record on the Helix and C59, 10p Red on the Shiv. More wheels than I can count... Never had a brake stick on the Giant or the C59 (internal full length housing).

Never had the brakes stick...
I wish I knew what that felt like :-)

I might need to harass my bike shop...

---

http://www.athlinks.com/athletes/208730390

We are brothers from another mother - I sweat like the Alien bleeds, it eats thru everything.

PRO tips:
Use the crappiest bike possible for the dedicated BTN (Bike To Nowhere) trainer bike.
Mine is my wife's '93 Rockhopper with a big fat slick on the R, hooked up to a KK trainer, with a sweat net and a MONSTER ventilator (not "fan") in front of it.
In spite of that, is caked with rust around the headtube and BB, looks like it was dredged up from the Titanic.
Pedaling is pedaling. Work is work.

All that said, I rarely ever use it anymore, because...

I ride a mtb in the winter. (and in the summer and most other times too these days)
Riding in the woods means no windchill, no salt damage, no cars.
You'd be shocked and amazed at how little extra clothing you'll end up wearing once you're 10-15 mins into a ride and warmed up.

When I do ride on the road in winter, I use one of my old beater bikes - my '93 Rockhopper (set up as a "CX" bike), or my '99 Klein roadie if the weather is decent.

If you don't have a beater bike, then buy a used one, or get a CX bike from bikesdirect.com, they have many for <$600, and some pretty nice ones for a bit more, if that floats yer boat.

Good luck!

---

float , hammer , and jog

So between this and my other thread. Here is my plan for the rest of this season and starting next.

Beat up my allez elite and have it set up to mimic the fit of the trek.
Get an 11spd chain and take off anything that can rust.
Upgrade the treks derailleurs instead of my big bike the up.
Keep the trek until I don't want to race anymore.
Profit.

And you are my sweat brother. It sucks being such a salty bastard. But it's good to know were not alone and there is a fix.

---

http://www.athlinks.com/athletes/208730390

Sorry if I missed it, but did anyone ask what kind of fan you are using? Some can blow air a lot harder than others. Given that you live in the northeast like me, a combo of a couple of high power fans and open windows should resolve a lot of issues. Buy better fans!
Other than that, put plastic bags over your brakes, keep a sweat guard towel over the bike but also keep wiping yourself down with separate towels, and there is no reason your garmin should be in the way of your sweat, take it off the bike (or your wrist) and set it a bit further away.

Cheers

This may be worthy of separate thread but how do you hydrate in hot races? I have done eagleman last 4 years and I always have mild heat exhaustion after with 2 years ago getting severe cramping. My sweat rate is higher than my absorption rate. I take in 48oz an hour (2
Bottle) on the bike and pretty much the max I can on the run into I feel sloshing/bloated. My sweat rate has topped 5 pounds an hour in extreme heat + humidity. I laugh at most tri nutrition / hydration articles.

Also when I think ventilator - I think being intubated.
What is this device you speak of?

---

http://www.athlinks.com/athletes/208730390

Fellow heavy sweater and its one reason I really dislike indoor workouts... soaked towels, soaked rollers and soaked bike... then there's me. Cleaning up my mess while I'm raining sweat all over is zero fun... I digress.

A roadie friend of mine suggested I get a stationary bike, which is similar to the solution you're going with. It's still going to get rained on with your sweat though. I've managed to keep my stuff in decent shape, wiping down the right parts, replacing bar tape, replacing steering "area" bolts maybe once a year... could go titanium I suppose. For what its worth, I ride my road bike most of the time over the last two years and haven't noted any major declines in my cycling. It is easier to wipe down as well than my Speed Concept... i.e. the rear brake. Seized that up one time and they had to get me a whole new assembly. :)

Not sure I have much to add... just a fellow sweater checking in.

Like onea these bad boys

http://www.globalindustrial.com/...u6xs4CFYpbhgodCQoC6Q

You don't want some namby pamby fan, you want a turbo powered jet prop powerful enough to blow away all your doubts and fears.

---

float , hammer , and jog