Is there space under the BB for those things? And why do you need hydraulic brakes?

Bob

Yea there is. The new 2014 shiv pro comes with them but wondering if someone has put them on themselves. Not a matter of need :)

My friend is putting maguras on his shiv comp.

You need 2 rear maguras and these parts from specialized:

S140500008
BLT MY14 SHIV MAGURA BOLTS FOR BRAKE ADAPTERS (SET OF 4)
S140700010
BRK MY14 SHIV MAGURA FRONT BRAKE ADAPTER (WITHOUT BOLTS)
S140700011
BRK MY14 SHIV MAGURA REAR BRAKE ADAPTERS (WITHOUT BOLTS)

Pretty sure the front/rear combo won't work. Check the Shiv thread. Someone commented that the bolt on the front Magura brake was too long to work with the Specialized adapter, or something like that.

I bought a used Shiv when the owner got a new one (that came with the Magura). Owner didn't want the hydraulics so they put them on the used Shiv for me in a parts swap out. Local bike shop did it. Not the exact answer you were looking for, but clearly it can be done.

I'm about to have them installed on my Shiv. Two reasons: first, the stock pair are not great at stopping power and feel and I ride a fair amount of hilly rides and courses, and second, the Maguras are 50% off at Comp Cyclist so for about $350 I will be getting a huge improvement on stopping power and modulation plus an immaterial but nice aero benefit plus a material aesthetic benefit.

Obviously the stock are "fine" but this seems like a good cost/benefit at this price.

So are you getting two rear calipers?

Yes. I ordered two rears from Comp Cyclist at about $185ea and had my shop order the fr and rear adapters plus bolts. Hoping it works as well as anticipated. Given that they come on the Cervelo P5 and the two higher end 2014 Shivs, I don't feel that I'm doing something radical here.

Yea I have heard great things. I'm sure you'll love them. Can't wait to get a pair but comp cyclist doesn't have the RT6? I have a black and blue shiv so if going to shell out the money I rather get the RT6 which aesthetically will look nicer on my bike.

You're right - I didn't see the RT6. Might be able to find elsewhere in line for a deal right now though. I have a 2012 red S-Works so the black/red RT8 is a no brainer. The other possibility is the Tririg Omega. I was about to do those but the sale price on the Magura was too good - I'll get close to the same aero benefit (which is nominal honestly) but reportedly terrific actual stopping power. Big comfort
in the hills where I ride.

That's great. The omegas look nice too. Good luck!

I have the Neon Blue and Black Shiv Comp as well and I'm putting on the RT8 cuz they were cheap. If you wait and watch chainlove.com, they will have them for $150/piece. Thats where I got mine. I bought a front and rear set but after having my shop install them and found out thru this forum that I needed 2 rears. So I'm in the process of returning the front for another rear. The RT8 has carbon brake levers vs the RT6 which are only metal and plastic.

Hi Philosoraptor,

You heard right. In fact the sole difference between front and rear calipers is the length of the mounting bolt. Magura even uses the "long" hose for both, so a "front" can even be installed on the rear (or on the front of bikes which mount a rear caliper on an adapter).

All your mechanic needs to do is cut the mounting bolt shorter (and switch the brake shoes left to right so they're facing forward again). Not everyone will be comfortable doing this, but for those who are, it is an easy option.

Cheers,

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Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Hey guys,
Wondering if the opposite can be done? I've bought a set of brakes that came off a Shiv and want to mount them to an Airfoil but as you've probably guessed the front bolt is too short. I thought I could get away with a longer nut but it's still too short. The actual bolt on the caliper looks like a separate piece so does anyone know if that can be swapped out to the longer bolt or am I just going to have to source a new caliper?

I just installed my RT8TT last week and they make a huge improvement over the original stock brakes on my Shiv. I agree would prefer all black since I have the black/blue combo too but it isnt too bad. I did use both rears as recommended from Comp Cyclist and no issues. On the brackets from Spec, the one that is marked 1is for the front as they are very slightly different.

I have the Maguras on my Shiv and for the first time I am trying to install my Zipp race wheels. Using the screw on the brake lever, I cannot seem to get the brakes wide enough to fit the Zipps in. What else can I do to get them to fit?

Hi there,

Installed a pair of TT8 on my 2013 Shiv Pro yesterday and I'm very pleased with the result and the fact that I now have some strong reliable brakes on my speed machine :-)

I Removed the old studs and used the to two brackets and bolts from big S to mount the brakes. I had one problem with the front brake though...

As the mounting bolt for the Magura brake itself sits on the backside of the bracket, this needs to be tightened down before mounting the bracket on the bike. When mounting the bracket on the fork, I had to slide the brake to the side and back (off center it) in order to reach the two bolts and tighten them. This caused the mounting bolt for the Magura to come loose. The result was a brake impossible to center, as the pressure from the brake hose would make the brake "slide" to the side. I managed to solve this with a lot of grease on the outside of the mounting bolt and bracket and a good doze of blue Locktite on the Magura stud for the mounting bolt.

But, I'm afraid that the brake mounting bolt will still easily come loose, e.g. when traveling and this would cause a bit of trouble having only basic tools on a trip.

Any thoughts or good ideas how to handle this issue?

I am in the same boat. The brake is tight, but once rotated to put in the fork bolts it loosens up. Good idea on the grease and loctite. I'll give that a whirl.

try having it assembled such that once bolted to fork, you rotate it in the direction that tightens it, not loosens it, in order to center

If you cut down your allen wrench, it can fit between the caliper and bracket so you dont have to turn it. Mine has been on a year and not loosened.

Sounds like a good idea, but makes it a bit difficult to use a torque tool... :-)

If I remember correctly you can mount the adapter to the brake and then just use a long allen or hex key with a round end. Put some electrical tape on the brake arm to keep from scratching it and then with the wheel out compress the brake slightly to give yourself some more room. It has been a year since I did this instal so I might be wrong. I would also suggest threading the brackets on without the brake attached first to make sure the threads insert smoothly. I did this as part of a Di2 Magura modified brake setup so have forgotten all the little details. Here is a link to the blog post I did about the Di2 mod.
http://www.gearsandgrinds.com/...4/5/5/magura-di2-mod

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Owner of Gears and Grinds - Bike/Tri Shop
http://www.gearsandgrinds.com

Hi, I was hoping for some advice, I'm about to attempt a stud removal, can you describe how you removed the magura stud? I assume there is thread lock in there, and I was considering using a soldiering iron to apply heat to the screw, but I want to be careful not to damage any of the internal seals. Did you have much trouble breaking the stud free?

The end result of this is going to be a p4 rear brake swap via Specialized style adaptor plate, using a bolt directly into the magura stud hole.

Im not sure what you mean by 'magura stud'. Is it the stud on the frame that the standard TRP brake is attached to? In that case I simply used a big wrench to loosen the stud and afterwards a spanner to screw it out. Worked like a charm :-)

Ahh, I think I misunderstood you, I thought you had removed the stud out from the reverse side of the magura.

I did the swap on my 2012 Sworks Shiv. I got a set of new RT6's front and rear and went to my LBS with the part #'s listed to buy the adapters. The mounting stud in the front caliper is to long and the shoulder needs to have threads cut in it as it is also to long. The stud was easy to remove with a hex key even though Magura said they are difficult to remove and non-serviceable. The stud has an o-ring on it to seal the back side so if you screw it up you will have to buy a whole new caliper to get a replacement as Magura will not sell the stud. After removing the stud I simply cut it down and ran a die over it to cut new threads. Pretty simple really.

Bleeding them and then loosing the tiny set screws and pins used to tighten them after I turned them all the way out was WAY more of a PIA than modifying the stud, lol.

One note I seemed to miss. The adapters are front and rear. I mounted mine backwards the first time. I did this build over the winter along with a new HED wheels, Rotor crank, and Specialized carbon aero bar that I am now waiting on the recall. I am in Ohio so other than the trainer I have not had a chance to get it outside for a test ride. I love the adjust-ability on the brakes and the quick release handles. I am sure they are going to work MUCH better than the TRP's that came on the bike and were down right scary at times.
[URL=http://s216.photobucket.com/...zpshivq9smu.jpg.html][/url]

Has anyone had an issue with the chain rubbing on the rear magura calliper in the small chainring?

I'm busy with an s-works module build, so all parts supplied by Specialized, including the Maguras. In the small ring, the chain is rubbing on the pad holder bolt. I'm using Ridea cranks with their powerglide asymmetric rings, which can be a pain in the arse to get right with the front derailleur, but it looks like the chai rub would be an issue with standard cranks and chainrings too.

I'm not sure how to get around this...

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Ironman Certified Coach
Legendary Camel-Spotter

Yes!

I also had big problems with chain rubbing on the brake bolt when I installed a pair of Maguras. I'm using 53-39 Rotor Q-rings on a Specialized crankset and a 11-25 cassette. I tried with a regular 42t ring but that did not really solve the problem. My solution has been to shorten the chain by two links. This put more tension on rear derailleur arm and moves the chain away from the brake bolt. This solution works great!

I usually make my chain as long as possible, so this is a huge compromise. The chain is still long enough for 53-25, but I never ride the "big ring - big cog" gear anyway and usually not need more than a 25 cog in the rear for the mountains.

Thanks MrS! I'll try that.

I've got an 11-28, and the power rings are 52-36, which makes them 54-38 on the power stroke, so I may have slightly less leeway to shorten, but I was cautious and erred on the long side to start off.

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Ironman Certified Coach
Legendary Camel-Spotter

I had the same issue with the 36 chain ring and did the same thing and shortened the chain to fix it. If you are running a 11-28 you may not be able to shorten the chain enough which was the case for me with a 11-25. The problem for me was only on the 36x11 gear, IMO I wouldn't worry about it unless you plan to ride that gear for some reason. I have since gone back to a 53x39 and have no issues with the 39 clearing the brake.

I'm having the same issue because I am running a compact crank (50/34 - 11-26). I'm not a very big guy, about 145 at 5'8, and my cadence is very high, so I've always run a compact. I am not sure how to get around this problem. I tried removing the washers and using a shorter head screw, but that doesn't solve it. Any ideas short of changing to a standard crankset? I've run out.

It may be worth talking to your local specialized dealer (but mine weren't much help :( ).

I tried shortening the chain as suggested previously, which helped a bit but didn't solve it. Whenever my inner oval ring hit the 36 tooth part, the chain rubbed. I've moved to a standard s-works 39 inner ring and it's fine.

If you look at the specs of the dealer-supplied shivs that come with Maguras (pro and s-works here in Aus), the pro race comes with a compact crankset (52/36), so it must be do-able. The pro has RT6TT so I don't know if they're slightly different from the RT8TT's on an s-works (which comes with a 53/39).

Maybe they use a spacer to move the crank out slightly. Would be useful if someone with a pro took a look for us.

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Ironman Certified Coach
Legendary Camel-Spotter

Will it maybe help to sand down the brake pad. Know it means shorter life of the brakepad though...

Maybe its just the angle of the photo, but in the second picture it looks like the brake is way open and pads are way too far from the braking surface? It looks like you could close the brakes a lot, which would probably solve the chain rub.

Which rear cog are you on when it rubs?

I would shorten the chain as much as possible on the 50/26 then see where it rubs on 34. If it only rubs on the 11 or 12 I personally wouldn't worry to much about it. There is really no reason to ride those gears and you will likely never use them. Mine only rubbed on the 11 but I had a 36 inner.

The only difference I am aware of on the RT8 vs RT6 brakes are the levers. The 8 are CF the 6 are alum.

old thread i know... but anyone looking for a short/rear brake stud to turn a stock "front" into a rear to fit onto a shiv?

I have a "rear" i want to turn into a front for my new TT frame - looking to play swapsies with the stud - and as noted above Magura don't sell this easily replaceable part as a spare