An option is do what I'm doing. Brought a P5 last month with mechanical DA as the Di2 was £1000 more. When money allows it'll cost me maybe about half that to buy the FD, RD and shifters. Then I'll have Di2 DA cheaper than buying it off the shelf with the bike. The few rides I have done on the P5 the mechanical DA has been flawless, so it's not like your buying crap.

I would never waste money on fancy shifting cause 105 shifts perfectly

I have dura ace and my buddy on his 12,000 venge has di2. In the past 2 months he has had 3 failures mid ride and is stuck in that gear for remainder of the ride. Mine has been fine. These rides have been in salt snow and rain. I don't think I would risk it on my race bike.

It doesn't really work that way...

You'll need RD, FD, junction box, aerobar shifters, brake lever shifter, internal battery, battery mount, 5 e-tube cables, internal charger.

That's more than 1000 easy. It's almost never cheaper to buy component groups aftermarket.

That's also not including installation if you're not doing it yourself. I want to say that my upgrade from Ultegra to Ultegra Di2 was around $1600ish or so.

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-Alex

I bought a 7.5 and have Ultegra Di2 on it and cant imagine ever going back to a mech setup on a TT bike. The ease of shifting on the base bar is huge especially if you train/race in hillier environments. I did Savageman this past season and the Ui2 was flawless and worked great for the constant shifting that the course required.

Since you mentioned statistics, got any data to support that? I'm not aware that any such statistics are publicly available. In terms of anecdotal data, I read more instances online of Di2 failures than mechanical failures. A majority of mechanical failures can be traced to inadequate maintenance, whereas Di2 just seems random.

My experience with mechanical shifting is that as long as I replace the cables every year or two, and housing every two or three years, then I have 100% reliability. Just needs a tweak of the adjustment barrel every now and then, that's not a failure, that's just minor maintenance.

The OP compared Ultegra Di2 with D/A mechanical, but Ultegra mechanical works just as well as D/A and is tons cheaper.

For a TT bike, DI2. It's more aero and, not that this will ever affect you, but it's easier to make it UCI legal.

I run DA Di2 shifters on base and aero bars (single button on the extensions which I love). And then 6870 FD and RD. Only time I really had an issue was when I was running it with a Quarq, it just doesn't settle in quite right. I've since gone to a 6870 crank with Stages and works great. I think shimano groups really like to have all shimano drive trains. I love the Di2 on my TT bike.

Recently switched from Campy to DA 9000 mechanical on my road bike. Shifts great. I'd say that the transition from small to big ring is better then the Di2. In fact the first ride on it I kept checking to make sure it actually happened. I'm not a fan of the shimano hoods, but that's coming from campy so a let down is to be expected.

My wife has 105 on her bike. She thought it wasn't shifting right recently so I jumped on it to troubleshoot. I can honestly say that it's shifting is fantastic. So much so that if I wasn't so bling focused I'd have no problem going with it.

I've never felt DA is that much better than Ultegra. When you add Di2 in to the mix it's a no-brainer: go with the Di2 Ultegra.

Just my own personal anecdotes.

Once I got everything tightened up so my cables were secure, my Di2 road bike was set it and forget it. Haven't done anything but charge the battery for almost 3 years now. Perfect shifts every time.

My SRAM Rival bike on the other hand needs constant adjustment, and a new rear dérailleur cable every year. Oh, and my rear shifter died... apparently you have to lubricate the mechanism in SRAM shifters or they eventually fail. Thankfully I was still under warranty.
To be fair, this is my CX bike and the shifter has been dumped in the sand and ridden in the rain more than once.
I would be interested to know how Di2 shifters hold up after being dumped in sand. Anyone want to try and report back?

My TT bike has SRAM force. It seems less finicky, but still requires the odd adjustment.

Bingo.

Works great until this. Can be a deal killer.

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OK, as long as we're now clear that when you say "statistically" Di2 is more reliable you mean your own personal "statistics".