I was asked about the modification that I did to the top tube. I was going to do the same modification that Nick (TriRig) and Jack (Aeroweenie) did on their Cervelo's this time around but I decided to go with the way I originally did my SLC. It takes more work to do it the way I did but the hole size is about 30% smaller and drilling into the top tube I want the hole as small as possible.

I started with a standard flexible brake noodle that I sourced on Ebay. I then took the noodle apart and drilled out the end to allow the flexible part of the noodle to go in the other end. The nice part about the is that when I drop it down into the head tube area, I can bend the end of the flexible needle to angle toward the down tube. The other nice part about this is because I am running Mini I-Links, the inner housing can be run full length through the noodle.

You can see from the pictures the beginning and finished product. I give it a spray of plasti-dip to make the fit a little tighter. Also you can see in the first picture the difference in size from the standard ferrule most have used and the one that I have used.



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I did this to my P3, and you did a super good job with the drilling. Do you have a picture of it all cabled up?

Sweet sled. And I saw the tri rig write up.

Could you show in more detail the order of the parts you used and how you arranged them? It does not have to be in the bike, even just laid out in order on a table.

Thanks.

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I do not have it cabled yet as I am still waiting for some items to arrive but I did the exact same thing on my SLC. It will be interesting how this works now that I am using the TriRig Sigma stem.

I will see what I can do when I am at home later tonight. The process was a bit labour intensive but to be honest I like the smaller look but it only works if you are using the mini I-Links. Now if I was using the standard size I-Links there is a very cool way to use them as the ferrules they have for the set up can be introduced into the frame with smaller drilled holes as well.

Very nice build! I did the top tube modification on my P2 with the larger cable stops. Your method with the smaller holes and repurposed brake noodles is a great idea! You say it would only work with mini i-Link cables. Are you sure that standard 4mm shifter cable housing wouldn't fit in the end of the brake noodle? Was it tricky to take apart the brake noodle? Any details would be appreciated. I'm thinking about modifying a classic P3.

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CodyBeals.com | Instagram | TikTok
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Cody,

I just tried a SRAM shifter housing and it was very tight so you could open it up just enough to make it work. That being said, there could be issues. On my build with the TriRig Sigma stem, it is too low to bend the housing into the ferrule and under the stem cover. This is where the I-Link mini's shine. I tried the SRAM and it was not going to bend that much. I tried a spare section of the Mini housing and it has such a tighter bend radius that it will not be a problem at all. Also the Mini housing fit in the ferrule with room to spare.

As you can see from the picture above the modified noodle has about just over a inch of the white liner showing. That is how much of the noodle I lost when I pulled it apart. I made up a little jig to hold the end cap and the I took some needle nose pliers and started twisting. I tried to turn it out and twist the noodle out but nothing. I then just ripped it out. Was just frustrated at that point. Should have had a beer. It has to be a press fit but it is bloody tight. When you pull on it the coils separate. Looking back I probably should have used the dremel cutting wheel and cut it right off at the end cap and then drilled out the rest. I bought a few extras so I might try that.

I then had to drill out the other end of the end cap so that I could re-insert the noodle. I have a great set of drill bits so matching up the size was easy once I put a set of calipers on the noodle to get the exact size. The noodle was a tight fit so I just gave it a little love tap or 4 and it slid back in. I make sure that I only pushed it in half way because the needle inside is the housing stop.

Drilling out the end cap is a bugger because I did not want to put it in the vise and deform it and it is so tiny to hold. It was not easy to drill it out.

Drilling out the frame was the easy part. Since I was building the bike anyways, I did not have the fork on yet so I could reach in and make sure where I was drilling was going to be OK. I had already drilled out the SLC so I knew roughly where to drill. I think it is about 1" away from the headset and another 1/2" way for the second hole. That worked for my SLC and both frames are 54cm so I know those measurements work for me. that back hole when you drop the noodle down just hits the inside edge of the joint between TT and DT.

I drilled the pilot holes first with a small bit then increased the sizing 4 more times until the desired diameter. Since it was just a bit loose I gave the end cap a little shot of plasti-dip to make it just snug. Also hid any marks I created while doing the modifications.

Thanks for all the info. Sounds like it wasn't a straightforward project, but I still think your method is an improvement over TriRig et al. I would go your route if I modify another bike.

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CodyBeals.com | Instagram | TikTok
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Cody, you need to get a bike sponsor and just not have to worry about modifications.

Thanks, but bike sponsors aren't easy to come by these days. It doesn't help that I'm quite choosy when it comes to my equipment. I could get a "pro deal" on something, but frankly, I can do a lot better than ~30% off MSRP by buying used. I've pretty much concluded that it will take at least another year of progress and profile building before I'd have a hope of cutting a deal with a bike company I respect. In the meantime, I'd rather ride exactly what I want, even if I have to shell out for it. For around $3k, I bet I can get within a few watts of P5... and I don't have to jump through hoops to keep a sponsor happy :)

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CodyBeals.com | Instagram | TikTok
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I think with all of the information these days especially on this site, you can build up a very aero bike for a good price. I think the new P2 with disc cover and a Flo front wheel gets close and then you can add in a few more tweeks like an updated aerobar, aero brakes (TriRig or Magura) and BTA bottle. You are very close to a lot of other more expensive bikes out there.

My problem is that anything with wheels in our house gets modified one way or another. Cars, kids bikes, scooters and RC's

I am thinking about running the Zipp extensions with the built in Sram shifter mounts. Anyone have any feedback on them.

I'm running Zipp VukaShift s-bend extensions with SRAM R2C shifters. I really like them and will definitely use them on my new build. They position the shift levers right in your hand, avoiding that awkward transition from extension to shifter body. I also like the textured grip area (no tape needed), which is fatter than most extensions. Another benefit is that there's no expansion plug to come loose. Plus, they drop some grams, if you're into that ;)

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CodyBeals.com | Instagram | TikTok
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Can you shot me over a few picks of your set up especially in regards to the extensions. I have a line on a pair for a great price.

And YES if I can save some weight by upgrading a part, I am all over that. AERO AND LIGHT IS RIGHT!

Are you going to paint it black and fill in the holes on the downtube?

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ishi no ue ni san nen | Perseverance will win in the end. | Blog | @nebmot | Strava | Instagram |

Here you go. It's taken me a long time and a lot of trial and error to get the front end dialed. I'm as low and narrow as I can get with the Ventus, but it's not quite enough, so it's time for a new bike! Also, that Bontrager XXX cage is junk. Two ejected bottles during 70.3s have taught me that cages are not the place to be a weight weenie.









And the obligatory action shot:

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CodyBeals.com | Instagram | TikTok
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Actually if I had my way yes, I would have stripped it down to bare carbon and filled in the holes or at least made plugs. My son asked for me to keep it that color as he likes it and said I already have enough black bikes.

That is awesome and your hand position looks great using those extensions. I might have to go that route. The nice thing about the Alpha bars is that I can get them very low or very high depending on where I settle with the basebar position. I just have to sort out first.

Outstanding work as always, BMANX, thanks for posting.

Obviously the bike should be black or bare carbon, but one can´t have everything.

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´Get the most aero and light bike you can get. With the aero advantage you can be saving minutes and with the weight advantage you can be saving seconds. In a race against the clock both matter.´

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Can't go against my son's wish to keep it this color BUT he will change his mind at some point then it goes nude.

Or... you tell him that you changed his mind for him...

When I buy him is first road bike it will be black and then he will want my bike to be black.

I support that.

OK I was just able to pick up a pair of the Zipp Vuka Extensions w. Integrated Bosses Sram Shifters. This will be a nice addition and will lower the weight a bit as well. Yes if I can upgrade and save weight, I am all over that. Also I have begun tuning the stem, bars and seat post clamp. Just have to go through the boxes in the garage to find the bolts I need.

I should be able to get my Speedplay X2's down to NANO weight for about a 1/4 of the price of a pair of NANO's. Actually looking at the weights they will be lighter.