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Re: Felt DA rear brake issues [jeffp] [ In reply to ]
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Well then that doesn't really sound like that much of a problem. A bit of a tempest in a teapot, I hope.

I'm super excited for the bike.

Not that anyone will care, but I'll post pics!



"What do you mean your running shoes don't match your bike?"
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Re: Felt DA rear brake issues [OCD] [ In reply to ]
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It really isn't that big of a deal...once you figure it out.

Its an integrated rear brake so you can't just design a new one. Its essentially part of the frame. Is it harder to work on then a standard road brake caliper? Yes, of course. But its not impossible. Not in the slightest.

You'll enjoy the bike. I just finished building mine but am waiting on the wheels before I post any bike pjorn.

"One Line Robert"
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Re: Felt DA rear brake issues [AnthonyS] [ In reply to ]
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AnthonyS wrote:
OCD wrote:
I am so surprised that FELT has not chimed in on this yet- especially since their road guy does look around here from time-to-time


I'm not surprised. Felt probably knows that the rear brakes on their tri bikes are a PITA to mess with. Nothing short of some engineering work will fix this issue. There just isn't anything to say about it.

I love my two Felt bikes, but I hate the rear brake on my Tri bike. If I didn't need a rear brake, I'd take it off and see how far I can throw it. It's that awful of a design really. Of course, I've designed parts for the auto industry too. I was actually the engineer that re-engineered things based on customer complaints too. It's an awful task to say the least.

The brake is actually quite simple, the function mirrors that of a Shimano V-brake now commonplace on entry level MTB and BMX bikes; even at the department store level.

Set up takes an understanding of what makes the brake function and how the spring tension adjustment is made. You'll also need to select the right spacer width on the brake pads for the rim width you are using.

If you or OCD have any specific questions feel free to email or call me and I can try to walk you through the set up as it relates to your wheel choice.

Best regards,
-SD

https://www.kickstarter.com/...bike-for-the-new-era
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Re: Felt DA rear brake issues [wsrobert] [ In reply to ]
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Well I'd be interested to see the build once you are done.

It's worth noting that the frame color I chose matches my running shoes.



"What do you mean your running shoes don't match your bike?"
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Re: Felt DA rear brake issues [OCD] [ In reply to ]
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Haha. Of course.

Mine has been meticulously pieced together. All black DA frameset, carbon devox bars, tririg omega front, sram red black and quarq with black tt rings. Oh and a Flo disc and 90 front.

"One Line Robert"
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Re: Felt DA rear brake issues [wsrobert] [ In reply to ]
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Well done



"What do you mean your running shoes don't match your bike?"
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Re: Felt DA rear brake issues [OCD] [ In reply to ]
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To the guys who know
i have a new b2pro that i purchased as a frameset. The rear brake is not really working with the calipers that i currently have. Im running a borrowed duraace bake at the moment, and looking for the best option for a new one. I can get a 7900 rear but that goes against the grain, and has very limited crank clearence. Will a campagnolo lateral pull rear work?
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Re: Felt DA rear brake issues [slowdave999] [ In reply to ]
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slowdave999 wrote:
To the guys who know
i have a new b2pro that i purchased as a frameset. The rear brake is not really working with the calipers that i currently have. Im running a borrowed duraace bake at the moment, and looking for the best option for a new one. I can get a 7900 rear but that goes against the grain, and has very limited crank clearence. Will a campagnolo lateral pull rear work?


Dura-Ace 7800 will work, Dura-Ace 7900 does not fit.

TRP also makes calipers that work well:
TRP R950 and T925-1B are excellent options.

Campagnolo's lateral pull will fit but the housing will need to be anchored out of the way with a zip tie or suitable retainer. The link on the -1B TRP caliper is a better option.
-SD

https://www.kickstarter.com/...bike-for-the-new-era
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Re: Felt DA rear brake issues [Squarry] [ In reply to ]
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Squarry wrote:
I could fix the brake-issue now! It was quite a hard work... I don't know if it was the fastest way, but finally it works. It doesn't scratch and brakes like hell. So I explain every step we(!) did (sorry, for my English, my business English is quite ok, but my mechanic-engineer-English isn't *g*). I don't know if it's the "right" way, but for me it helped.


  • remove the rear wheel and the crankset
  • turn the bike upside-down for an easy access
  • release the brake cable
  • remove the brake-arms and the metallic cable housing (the one with the bending)
  • clean everything perfectly, the frame, the arms, the housing
  • remove the inside of the metallic housing (it's transparent plastic) and clean it
  • we used a jagwire cable with a special surface for better gliding
  • fill(!) the transparent plastic housing with grease (to avoid dirt going inside). we used the green transparent motorex grease.
  • fill the hole of the brake-arms (where the screws goes through) with grease und put the spring back
  • we tested the usage of all three small holes on the frame (for the tension spring). we decided to use the middle ones.
  • put the brake arms back on and test that they are really moving freely, probably turn the spring upside-down (it's not the same on both sides). there should be no feeling of scratching.
  • put the cable in. There are two possibilites for fixing the cable (which way around the screw). We tested both and decided to use the way that is closer to the front of the bike. I know that the way closer to the brake-pads would be more logical in respect of more power with a shorter way, but the other way is better because the cable, housing and whole system looks better. It's more parallel then. Sorry, don't know how to explain properly. But one of the main problems is, that the arms don't move symmetric. And in this way it's a bit better.
  • play with the small screws of the brake-arms (tension of the spring) until you think that both arms are moving symmetric (more or less).
  • put the wheel back in
  • try to have the brake pads absolutely parallel to the wheel. I know that a lot of people do it with a small angle. But then you'll probably have the "soft-brake"-issue. We used a bit of carton (thick paper) to avoid the angle, because the pad always got an angle... so I put the carton under the side of the pad which was too close, he then pulled the brake and I fixed the screw. So we could do it really parallel. We had to do it several times and play with the thickness of the carton until we figured it out. So don't worry!
  • then we had to play with the cable itself in the meaning of how tight to fix it. Now the pads are about 1-2 Millimeters away from the wheel (Zipp 808 Firecrest, no washers!).
  • we also had to play again a bit with the small screws of the braking-arms.
  • put the crankset on
  • One word to the wheels: check the hub of the rear wheel and make sure that there is no tolerance. If your wheel is moving from left to right, you'll have scratching for sure.
It's a lot of work and you have to test and try a lot. Take your time and make small steps when turning the screws.

Comments would be very appreciated!

Great walkthrough, my problem is this: which way up should the spring be? Long arm in the frame or in the lever? It seems to fit both ways for me but there must be a reason for it to be different. Any help appreciated as the springs pinged out when I dismantled it and I missed the orientation.

Thanks
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Re: Felt DA rear brake issues [OchAye] [ In reply to ]
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Sorry, can't remember... I think both ways work.
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Re: Felt DA rear brake issues [Squarry] [ In reply to ]
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My apologies for reviving this thread...I've narrowed down my bike search to two contenders: 2014 Argon 18 e-118 and 2013 Felt DA c.

After having read about all these issues with the rear brake, I'm a little concerned. Is this issue still present on the 2013s with the Bayonet 3 fork or are the issues limited to previous generations of DA?

I'm going to see if there's an owner's forum for DA's on slowtwitch and will post this message there as well.

thanks,
eric
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Re: Felt DA rear brake issues [ericv2013] [ In reply to ]
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I can lock the rear wheel on my 2012 DA which is the same as the 2013.

It does take more work to keep up though.

jaretj
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Re: Felt DA rear brake issues [trikicks] [ In reply to ]
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Just to chime in. I had this issue worth a wide rear. Since have been running either an older zipp 404 powertap, pre fc and a zipp 900 tubular rear. No rubbing and quite happy with 900 performance so am sticking with this set up. Not the most modern wheels, but haven't seen and performance differences. 2012 DA.

NCCP certified Comp coach
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