Very sweet Tom! Looks like the P2 equivalent of the P5.

Don't know if this has been asked prior but how long does it take you to switch out the cabling and bars?
Btw. Sweet as hell set up! Looks fast.

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"Sometimes it's just easier to do it the hard way."

Have not seen Scott 100k bars (if I got it correct) in many years, Very cool indeed.

looks pretty good for a "first cut". what upgrades do you have in mind for future iterations?

It took me longer getting it set up this time since I was trimming cable housings, figuring out how I wanted to do things, and such...but, for reference, it literally took me less than 5 minutes to loosen the brake and derailleur cable bolts and then steerer clamp bolts on the stem and pull the road bars off (housings and cable inners go with the bars). Now that the TT bars are set up and cabled, I can do the same with those. As long as the cable inner ends are clean (I'll put a drop of superglue on them to keep them from unraveling), it should be easy to recable (I used new ones this time). I can't imagine it taking any longer than it used to when I did this with my old aluminum Soloist, or about 30 minutes if I'm taking it leisurely.

The cool thing about the seat positions is that I apparently don't need to raise the saddle at all to get it in the right spot. I just remove the seat from the rear hole (very easy) and put it into the front hole slammed all the way forward and with the rails level. This is probably due to the fact that with the tilted seat post, the forward hole is also slightly higher :-)

I took it out for a spin before I put the cover on the rear wheel and even with the light gusts of wind we where having I found it to be VERY easy to ride and stable :-) The test will be tomorrow on the TT course...there's some pretty hefty winds forecast !

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Well...I spent a lot of time trying to "repurpose" that open hole behind the stem and the 2 derailleur cable holes as the rear brake cable entry. It's actually intended for the Di2 cable harness entry point, but one of the things that bugs me about the S5 is the rear brake cable entry into the top tube. With it on the bottom portion of the tube, the cable is invariably routed out and forward and looped around (with lots of housing "hanging in the breeze"). Even with it going up through the middle of the Look Ergostem like I have it there, it still "pops out" to the side more than I'd like. I had made a couple of "cable guides" that plug into that hole and then turn the cable rearward towards the rear brake cable exit, but the material I made them out of wasn't up for the task :-/ So...I still intend on making that modification at some point.

Also, I think I will eventually replace the Ergostem with a -45d, 120mm stem. That's what I had calculated I needed, and it turns out it's exactly correct, but for the first cut I wanted to just use the Ergostem to get the bar into the right pad stack and reach spot and then measure what the stem needed to be to confirm.

Oh...and I'll probably figure out something different for the Garmin 500 mount.

Other than that...oh, maybe I'll try some alternate wheels ;-)

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having never seen one in person i'm not super familiar with the cable routing. looks pretty clean as is.

any thoughts on a center pull style brake?

i'm assuming you would mount the garmin on the stem once you swap that out.

Wow that is fast! Does the frame have internal plumbing to guide housings to the exit points? I'm not familiar with Cervelo frames.

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"Sometimes it's just easier to do it the hard way."

Oh yeah! I forgot about the front brake! Yes...I'm looking forward to seeing how an Omega brake mates up :-)

The 500 would be too far back for my preference if it was on the stem (plus angled downward). I actually kind of like the position it is in right now since I can cover it with my forearm if I need to "ignore" the PM for a while ;-)

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please post pics with the omega, should look pretty nice.

no helping how far back the garmin would be mounted with it on the stem, but i ride with a -40 on my tt bike and the downward angle doesn't really inhibit my ability to read it.

Tom. That looks scary but I'm guessing you can handle it.

Is aero-or-die UCI legal?

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You should see how fast I can swap a crank ;-)

The front and rear derailleur housings stop at the holes behind the stem. There are small internal guides for the inner wires, but they only make sure it goes down the downtube. The hardest part of the whole thing is "feeding" the cables past the press fit bottom bracket and out the hole in the underside of the BB, but the hole is pretty big and there's a removable BB cable guide that pops right out...sometimes they come out the first time, and at others you have to "fish" a little. But, nothing too bad. Both the chainstay and the rear brake stops have removable cable stops that makes things pretty easy as well.

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It's actually not as bad as you might think. If anything, it encourages me to stay on the arm pads...that's the more stable position anyway.

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For the races I do, I don't really care ;-) Besides, show me where those bars are NOT legal...

Oh, and those aren't completely "aero or die" (as in no basebar, or "pursuit" position). It's more like what Jackmott like to call "aero or fixie" :-)

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Thanks Tom. Someday I may try something similar to your set up.
Can't wait to see it evolve. Best of luck with it!

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"Sometimes it's just easier to do it the hard way."

I like that you swap saddles to keep it coordinated. =]

But why swap cranks? And what crank is on the TT version? What TT are you doing tomorrow? Fiesta?

2 thumbs up on the builds.

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ishi no ue ni san nen | Perseverance will win in the end. | Blog | @nebmot | Strava | Instagram |

Major pain in the ass to go back and forth like that (I did it for quite awhile before finally buying a tri bike). I'd rather keep the two "lower grade" cervelos you had than get an S5 and make it pull double duty.

Good luck, Tom! Looking forward to a race report.

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AndyF
bike geek

Well...the bars already had the tape on them, and I had the matching saddle anyway (I had used both on my old Transition) and had to move the saddle to the front hole (which means taking it completely off) anyway...so, why not? :-)



I didn't swap the cranks as part of this TT buildup. Those had been changed a few weeks ago. I can't tell you much about the crank, but if you look closely you might be able to decipher what it might be ;-)



Nope. Piru...as long as this nasal drip/head cold I'm fighting off doesn't get worse overnight, that is :-(



Thanks!

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Pretty neat! Good luck at the turnaround =)!

But, I still have the aluminum Soloist ;-)

That will be built up as a "TT position simulator" so that I can do workouts in the TT position and also I'll use it for "informal" TTs. The plan always has been to only convert the S5 to TT duty for my "A" races. I did it this time just because I wanted to set it up and "prove it out" ahead of time. Otherwise, the plan is for the S5 to stay mainly set up as a road bike. I only plan on doing this swap at most 2-3 times per year...at least until I can figure out how to have a dedicated TT rig (that is as fast, or faster, of course) again.

So...doing this, I get to have the most aerodynamic road bike for road races and crits, AND for my "A" TT races I'm on a setup every bit as fast as the same equipment and position on a P4. I did the tradeoff analysis...and it was well WORTH IT for me. YMMV ;-)

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They are never an issue. Neither is the start, or climbing, etc....

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Not a personal attack, but that bike is simply fugly.

Love the TT bars though. Haven't seen those in use in years.

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"There are two novels that can change a bookish fourteen-year old's life: The Lord of the Rings and Atlas Shrugged. One is a childish fantasy that often engenders a lifelong obsession with its unbelievable heroes, leading to an emotionally stunted, socially crippled adulthood, unable to deal with the real world. The other, of course, involves orcs." John Rogers