The official Cervelo P5 thread (Page 106): Triathlon Forum: Slowtwitch Forums

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The official Cervelo P5 thread

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borncrazy

May 25, 13 6:39

Post #2626 of 2633 (247 views)

Re: The official Cervelo P5 thread [damon_rinard] [In reply to]	Quote \| Reply

Hi Damon/everyone else

What length bolt are people using for the BTA bottle cage mount as as a "normal" bolt hits the stem cover in the low aduro setup?

Would an 8mm long bolt work?

Cheers

My Races: Mandurah 70.3 2013 | IMWA 2014

-BrandonMarshTX

May 25, 13 7:35

Post #2627 of 2633 (228 views)

Re: The official Cervelo P5 thread [campled] [In reply to]	Quote \| Reply

I use chain lube to clean the matte white. It works really well. Yeah, just tri-flow or whatever 'normal' chain lube I have sitting around the house. I use a clean rag and it gets the white nice and clean.

For the BTA bottle (as someone asked) I don't know what size screw I'm using. Just get one that's shorter! :)

David Byer

May 25, 13 7:49

Post #2628 of 2633 (216 views)

Re: The official Cervelo P5 thread [hobie1] [In reply to]	Quote \| Reply

Hobie,

You can reach out to our Tech Specialist and Service guys here: cervelo.com/en/contact.html

You can also find a basic walk through on the bar assembly on the P5 Manual here: P5 Manual It is still a good idea to get in touch with the service guys if you have a specific torque question. But, this should get you started on putting it all together.

David Byer
Cerv�lo

jar70

May 25, 13 8:44

Post #2629 of 2633 (199 views)

Re: The official Cervelo P5 thread [-BrandonMarshTX] [In reply to]	Quote \| Reply

Hey Brandon..for the BTA bottle - do you need to place a washer on the bar to level out the bottle - or do you ride with it at an angle?

Cheers!

JR

PS - Still trying to figure out that Garmin/Torhan's solution.... ;-)
_____________________________________________
"It's a line you have to cross to understand."

damon_rinard

May 25, 13 11:09

Post #2630 of 2633 (156 views)

Re: The official Cervelo P5 thread [hobie1] [In reply to]	Quote \| Reply

Hi hobie1,

Thanks for your patience. I see David Byer just posted how to get in touch with CS; they should be able to supply the 3T diagram for the High-V when they're back in the office next week.

In the meantime, I can remember a few:

Among all the M5 flat head bolts, the most critical bolts are the four that attach the High-V to the stem. Use the 20 mm bolts in the back and 25 mm bolts in the front. Grease the threads and torque them all to 5 N*m.

The other M5 flat head bolts attach the arm pad supports. They're 12mm long. Grease and torque these to just 3 N*m.

Have fun,
===========
Damon Rinard, Senior Advanced R&D Engineer
Vroomen.White.Design
http://www.cervelo.com
http://www.bbright.net

laraza

May 25, 13 12:18

Post #2631 of 2633 (135 views)

Re: The official Cervelo P5 thread [campled] [In reply to]	Quote \| Reply

I use ArmorAll Cleaning Wipes to keep my P5-6 clean: http://www.armorall.com/...uct.php?product_id=1

Bought it at my local Wal-Mart.

Works pretty good.

-BrandonMarshTX

May 25, 13 12:20

Post #2632 of 2633 (132 views)

Re: The official Cervelo P5 thread [jar70] [In reply to]	Quote \| Reply

Ours seems pretty level as is. At least not too noticeable that it isn't.

tripirate

May 25, 13 13:46

Post #2633 of 2633 (99 views)

Re: The official Cervelo P5 thread [damon_rinard] [In reply to]	Quote \| Reply

Hi Damon and everyone else,

I finally received my P5 the other day, and I REALLY like it!

However, today I was going to change from competition wheels to training wheels, and thus change brake pads (carbon to alu rim). This was not easy on the rear brake. Maybe I am doing it wrong?

Since the small bolt that holds the pad in place is placed in the back of the brake shoe and thus blocked by the frame, I had to remove the holder to switch pads. It's definitely easier than on the P4, but I would like to skip this step totally if possible. I tried to remove the brake to get a better angle of the hex key on the drive side but ended up bleeding the brake (oups - should have read the manual!).

Are there some better way to do this? Are there any brake shoes that have the small fastening bolt on the front side, or is it safe do go without them (I guess it is if you never spin the wheel backwards with engaged brakes)?

I also wonder how I will do this after I have put my 53 tooth Quarq on next week, since the wider diameter of the chainring will probably not allow the hex key to reach the brake shoe bolt. Maybe removing the brake is the way to go after all?

Also ended up with a hole between the brake covers on the front brake, but I think this has been discussed a couple of times in the thread - washers between the brake shoe and brake arm, right? (Which means I will have to remove the brake shoe anyway when switching wheels - so I think I will just live with it.)

Now out for a ride...

(This post was edited by tripirate on May 25, 13 14:03)

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