I've got a set of 808s I use for almost everything, they seem to work well for most of my road race and track needs. I also have a pair of 303s with some 24mm tubulars that I'll run if a course is exceedingly technical (180degree turns or 8 corners in 1km) or if it is wet or slippery. I understand I am considerably spoiled and would agree with many who will post that you should get something more affordable. I'd encourage you to look at a set of Vittoria Pave or Diamante Pro Light 25mm tires if you run clinchers.

-SD

I run some cheap Shimanos that have a light rim weight (Depending on type I either bring RS80's or Ultegras). I would never want to bring my nice carbon section wheels to a crit. Many of the crits in my area have really awkward winds, and I would never want to have anything that could possibly help push me around.


I know many racers who bring 404's to them. I personally try to avoid bringing anything I would worry about breaking to a crit.

better light than heavy but aero still trumps.

so says the math anyway, 90% of roadies would say different

but then they don't win races by being good at math

but unless you are super rich it doesn't make sense to bring a fancy wheel.

money no object I would go with a jet90 rear/jet60 front, and a jet90 front if there was no wind =)

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Kat Hunter reports on the San Dimas Stage Race from inside the GC winning team
Aeroweenie.com -Compendium of Aero Data and Knowledge
Freelance sports & outdoors writer Kathryn Hunter

Mavic Ultimate is THE BEST crit. wheel...period.

Almost always Zipp 404's unless some really bad mojo feeling/unknown area or the powertap is in the shop, then some Dura Ace carbon 1380s (WH something)

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Fatigue is biochemical, not biomechanical.
- Andrew Coggan, PhD

Maybe this is more of a question for Rappstar, but how durable are Zipps (or full carbon wheels in general)? i.e., how bad of a crash can they take and not be destroyed (that's probably a terrible question - too many variables). I'm a very good bike handler, but with the unavoidable 'act of God' crashes that can happen in Cat 5 (where I'll be starting), would it be better to get something aluminum (like a 101) until I get out of the bottom of the barrel, just so they'll survive if I do get sucked up in a crash? I'd hate to get a pair of wheels and lose them 5 minutes into a race, but that might be unavoidable.

FWIW, I did my first crit on the Shimano R500s that came with my P2, since they had bladed spokes and a lower spoke count than my Cane Creek trainers, and I thought I'd look like a tool if I rode my Jet 9s in a Cat 5 crit on a 14 year old aluminum road bike. So, I'm looking to upgrade from those.

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-Brian
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"The fastest hour run I've ever seen was done in 58:27."

Never my best wheels. Rarely with my PT unless I am testing fitness of looking to go off the front. I ride Easton circuits in most crits. Lightweight (ish) and cheap. If I had to replace them - it would be with the like or Neuvations. I'd rather be out $2-300 from a bent wheel than $1500-2000. OTOH, road race always gets the pimp wheels...

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Well I believe in God, and the only thing that scares me is Keyser Soze

Lightweight trumps aero in a pack....accelerating out of turns, going with jumps, etc. Unless you are strong enough to leave everyone else behind, weight should be your primary consideration. Aero really doesn't play into it.

That said, I use my 404's....best of both worlds. Lightweight (1250g +/-) and aero.

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Chicago Cubs - 2016 WORLD SERIES Champions!!!!

"If ever the time should come, when vain and aspiring men shall possess the highest seats in government, our country will stand in need of its experienced patriots to prevent its ruin." - Samuel Adams

I really don't think it matters much. Crits aren't usually won or lost by saving a few watts via aero wheels. Race something cheap unless you can afford something for the sake of bling. I race on Ksryium SLs, they're durable, stiff and reasonably light. I have a set of 404, but it would be awfully easy to trash a $1000 wheel. Maybe I would feel different if I had a chance to win, but most races come down to a field sprint and I just don't have that top end.

Thom

I'd never ride anything I couldn't afford to replace in a crit. Especially a cat 5 crit. but what i can afford to replace and what you can afford to replace is probably different (I own 0 zipps).

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Nothing to see here

Carbon wheels can take a pretty good beating, but it all depends on the angle and speed of the crash. Ive seen a friends 303's survive a 45km skid into a cerment wall and be perfectly fine, but a set of 404's get taco'd when a guy went up onto a curb at 30km. In cat 4 and 5, I would never suggest bringing any wheelset that did not have a very good crash replacement (hello Reynolds!) or something that you would not worry too much about. I typically use my Shimano RS80's for road races simply because they are a very good wheelset that can be fixed up very cheaply, and a brand new set will only cost me about $400. I would not suggest busting out the 101's for cat 4/5 as they are just as likely to get toasted as your carbon wheels. Wait until cat 3.

In road race situations I typically would not want to go deeper than 60mm. Stick with the R500's unless you can get a slightly better aluminum rim. In crits light weight usually trumps aero due to the constant harsh accelerations. Not to mention with the typical crit course being equal to or less than 1km, you will have to fight silly wind pushing against you for a good part of the race. In a crit I would gladly sacrifice some speed for better control.

Go big, or go home, I always say... ;-)

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http://bikeblather.blogspot.com/

Sigh...the myth of wheel weight/inertia mattering is a tough one to kill...

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http://bikeblather.blogspot.com/

Sigh...and again...

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http://bikeblather.blogspot.com/

Yeah, for some reason people think riding in the pack/peloton occurs in a vacuum or something. Funny how all the Cat 1/2 guys are in skin suits and deep carbon wheels for crits ...

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Fatigue is biochemical, not biomechanical.
- Andrew Coggan, PhD

Why is this a "myth"?

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Chicago Cubs - 2016 WORLD SERIES Champions!!!!

"If ever the time should come, when vain and aspiring men shall possess the highest seats in government, our country will stand in need of its experienced patriots to prevent its ruin." - Samuel Adams

You'll get two answers on this. Lower categories will say light because of all the accelerations out of turns (which is nonsense anyway). Upper cat riders often go aero since they know how to ride crits and minimize yo-yoing. IMO something like a 404 is ideal.

There's some merit to the point of not bringing good wheels to a low cat crit but even then, staying near the front should help avoid the carnage that sometimes occurs.

Here's a couple of things to think about:

• How fast are you going when you start your accelerations?
• What's the actual typical rate of acceleration?
• How does any reasonable difference in wheel weight and inertia compare to the overall inertia of the total mass of the bike and rider?

Mr. Willett did this exercise quite a while ago:

http://biketechreview.com/...63-wheel-performance


A couple of quotes of interest:

Quote:

It means that when evaluating wheel performance, wheel aerodynamics are the most important, distantly followed by wheel mass. Wheel inertia effects in all cases are so small that they are arguably insignificant.

and,

Quote:

How can it be that wheel inertial forces are nearly insignificant, when the advertisements say that inertia is so important? Quite simply, inertial forces are a function of acceleration. In bike racing this peak acceleration is about .1 to .2 g’s and is generally only seen when beginning from an initial velocity of 0 (see criterium race data in Appendix D ). Furthermore, the 0.3kg/0.66lb difference in wheels, even if this mass is out at the rim, is so small compared to your body mass that the differences in wheel inertia will be unperceivable. Any difference in acceleration due to bicycle wheels that is claimed by your riding buddies is primarily due to cognitive dissonance, or the placebo effect (they paid a lot of money for the wheels so there must be some perceivable gain).

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http://bikeblather.blogspot.com/

I think someone smarter than I can show you that unless you're riding lead rims, aero should trump (marginal) weight differences. I crit on Edge 65s laced with Sapims to CK road hubs - amazing wheel set. Have also used 808s (liked) and Campy Eurus and Shamal TIs. For some reason, I never like my 404s....they just felt 'soft' in corners...always same tires as other wheels sets (Mich Pro Race).

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"Oh man, it's going to take days to kill all these people!" - Jens Voigt

As per my post below, you're the 'smarter than I' guy I referenced!

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"Oh man, it's going to take days to kill all these people!" - Jens Voigt

Interesting read....like I said, I'll just take the best of both worlds and stick with my 404's.

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Chicago Cubs - 2016 WORLD SERIES Champions!!!!

"If ever the time should come, when vain and aspiring men shall possess the highest seats in government, our country will stand in need of its experienced patriots to prevent its ruin." - Samuel Adams

Awhile ago I did some rough back of the envelope calculations as to the difference in overall kinetic energy required to accelerate 'heavy' vs 'light' wheels from 0 to 30 mph. Wheels selected for comparison were American Classic 58's (tubular vs. clincher). I think it came out that having a ~400g lighter wheelset required about 0.5% less kinetic energy in the context of a 90 kg bike+ rider system (rotational inertia effects included).

Yo-yo's in crits are what kill you, but that is a function of rider skill to avoid.

Whatever wheels you bring should be:

1.) Cheap/easy to replace (if you're not a confident handler or if you're not confident in the handling of those around you).
2.) Excellent handlers - being able to take corners tight at full tilt is absolutely key to success in crits. Those who can handle better get to move up for free in the corners.

If you think aero doesn't matter in a 25+mph race, step out of the pack for a few seconds, then re-evaluate your statement :-)

I'd recommend 404's, I've personally ridden 404's, hed 6's, and 808's (all tubular). 404's was by far the best performing, easiest to spin up, stiff enough (I'm a sprinter) and.. DIMPLES! The hed 6's were much stiffer than the zipps but paid for it being 150g heavier, not so fun accelerating. 808's although much heavier, I didn't feel that they were that much of a detriment to me, maybe I was feeling the aeroness =) my only gripe with the 808's is that the front wheel, even MAX (higher spoke count) rubbed my break track everytime out of the saddle, even standing up out of corners not applying to much power. Now while I may be a sprinter, I'm still not that hefty at 165lbs so I would think that the 808s shouldn't do that.


Other wheels that come to mind:
Easton 56mm carbons: although I hear they are flexy as a noodle but they win the best looking award.
Edge (Enve) composites: Gosh do I want to try a pair, have heard nothing but excellent reviews for these wheels! MUCH lighter than Zipps of even smaller depth can reach and hear they are stiff to boot.
Reynolds: The older mold (cheaper) wheels are an excellent value, just a tad heavier. I've heard their wheels act very much like Edge (stiff, durable) but their weight leaves something to be desires. Reynolds I assume are the cheapest still as you can get a new set of the older mold wheels for 1,000$ off ebay.
Fulcrum racing speeds: If you have the money, BUY THEM! They have won the world championships at least 3 times (rebadged as campy boras a lot)


Outside the world of carbon, I'd recommend Kinlin rims, any depth. They offer many different spoke counts and go down to 20 I think, which a lot of manufacturers won't, offers you a nice light wheel. Sapim CX ray spokes, strongest, lightest, best value. Chris King hubs for some bling =) or Ultegra to save some cash, whole wheelset 5-600 I think.

Kysriums, durable, relatively light, stiff. Not gonna ride my carbon wheels and wreck them in a crash. Unlike most triathletes I have no hope of breaking away and soloing it; I'm a terrible tter.