No, the Shimano direct mount uses its own standard. The pivots of the brake bolt into threaded recesses in the frame, not onto studs. In addition the offset to the axle, the diameter of the pivot and threads and the width of the pivots are all different.

Lastly, the Shimano direct mount rear brake is too wide at the cable attachment point to use the Stages Powermeter.

For Shimano Direct Mount bikes (Felt, Orbea, Merida, Koga) that want to use Stages crank arms, you'll need the TRP T750. No rear brake will allow stages to fit a Trek.
For B16, use the T925.1B Rear brake
The latest B2 (B12/B14) frames use T822 or TRP 922 (same as Specialized, Parlee, old QR, etc)
The S32 needs T822-2R with the cable attachment on the opposite side as the B-series bikes
The DA needs the brake designed specifically for that frame and it will fit.

So simple, no?

-SD

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https://www.kickstarter.com/...bike-for-the-new-era

Although this is an old thread, I thought I would update to let people who are considering this know that I had success putting the Stages PM on my 2012 Felt B16. I swapped the FSA crank for Ultegra, (changed BB too), put on the rear TRP 925.1 brake and voila! Very easy to switch the Stages from my Felt to my road bike now.

Do you have a link to the rear brake you purchased?

Were there any other options you looked at for rear brake upgrade on the B16? Or anyone else on this thread for that matter? I can't find the TRP anywhere in my price range. I'm wondering if a Campy lateral pull brake will work, as I have seen the center pull regularly used with non-Campy brake levers.

Not worried about clearance in my case, as I don't have a Stages (perhaps down the line). I don't like the feel of the stock brake after a year of use, and it just won't stay centered for more than an hour or so anymore, so I am looking at upgrade options.

I was having clearance issues on my Scott Plasma 3 (with a DA 9000 Stages crank) which uses the same brake standard/placement as the Felts, I used a Campagnolo lateral pull brake, about $40-50 cheaper than the TRP T925.1 and easier for me to get hold of. I did have any issue with the non-drive side arm and the cable exit point touching the frame, but I used ~4-5mm of spacers behind the drive side brake pad to enable greater cable pull and modulation. I hope this helps in someway. If you would like pictures please PM me.

Hi Jaymz

I'm having the same issue that you did with my TT bike.

Also a 2013 b16. Did your age to get it working with the new rear brake? Thanks heaps

I haven't put a Stages on my bike, but I swapped my 2009 B16 rear brake for a Campy Lateral Pull (mentioned by Traffic above) with the possible intent to get a Stages (or 4iiii if it proved ok). I would take some pictures, but the lighting in my trainer room is awful. Maybe next time I take the bike outside I'll remember.

The cable noodle requires a little tighter of a bend than I liked, but it seems like it will work fine. The whole brake itself sits essentially inside or even with the frame, so it *should* give you enough clearance for a PM there. Still I think the TRP with the special noodle/cable routing is your cleanest and optimal solution.

I may end up going after some other PM anyway, so perhaps I wasted my time (P2M, Riken AL, PowerTap C2, other cheaper "dual sided" device). :)

Note, I would have gone straight for the TRP, but it was both hard to tell who stocked it (especially confirming the correct model number) and anywhere that *appeared* to have it listed the price at 2-3x the Campy option.

Yep, worked perfectly. Make sure you get the right brake, there are two very similar. You want the 925.1R not the 925R

http://www.trpbrakes.com/...tid=182&subcat=0

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https://www.pbandjcoaching.com
https://www.thisbigroadtrip.com

Great

Thanks nord0296 and Jaymz for the advice!

Nord, have you been able to take a picture of your brake routing yet? I am trying to decide whether to buy the TRP 925R (a.k.a. Tektro R725R & Campy TT Rear Lateral Pull Brake) for about $50 on Amazon or spend the extra $50 for the TRP 925.1R which I can not find anywhere for under $100. I just bought a Stages PM so I need the crank arm clearance.

Sorry, I hadn't really bothered yet... I just ran downstairs and snapped a few quick shots after receiving this message -- my excuse for if the shots are poor :)

The lighting in my basement is rough to work with without setting up some lamps, but perhaps these get the message across. Let me know if you can't see this album:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/nord0296/sets/72157656036599786

Oh, in case it matters that's a Rival OCT GXP crankset.

Those are perfect! Thank you. Now I need to take the pictures down to my bike and compare with the stages PM crank installed to see if there will be enough room. I'll let this thread know how I turn out.

After seeing the pictures from nord0296, I decided to go with the TRP 925.1R just to make sure I had enough clearance. I ordered directly from TRP.

Here are two pictures with the Dura Ace 7800 brake calipars that I had on there previously. You can see the interference with the Stages power meter.




Here are two pictures with the TRP brake installed.

Old thread revival, sorry.

Does anybody know if the TRP 922.1 brake will work similar to the 925.1R? I'm having the same clearance issues on a B16 and Stages.

I'll answer my own question: NO, it won't work. TRP T922.1 is "Direct Mount", and the B16 frame is "Center Mount". So it is either the 925.1R or the Campagnolo TT / TRI Lateral Pull Rear Brake.

Old thread revival part 2.
Did anyone try the Tektro R725 Rear Brake? It looks fairly similar to the TRP but cheaper so I would assume it would work but want to see if anyone else had experience with it.
Thanks.

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If people can see you from the front you're not aero enough.

Reviving an old thread for a query:

My LBS mechanic is having problems fitting the TRP925.1 brake to my Felt B16. He's done the best he can so far, but thinks we need to use one of the flexible cable noodle things as shown in ksujeff99's photo. My question is, is it essential to use a flexible noodle, and if so, is there any specific one we should use?

I hope someone picks up on this thread after all this time!

Thanks

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http://www.howesgreg.com

Another bump for this. My LBS still hasn't got my TRP brake working very well, and I really want to give him a few pointers about how to make it work as well as possible. The way it's set up at the moment, only one side of the brake caliper really moves and engages the wheel, and the top of the caliper hits the wheel arch when I pull the brake lever.

Any advice about flexible noodles and how to get it working would be very helpful.

Cheers!

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http://www.howesgreg.com

When I installed my brake, I used the flexible noodle. It was the only way to stop the arm from hitting the frame, which would stop the movement. It actually took me about a year to get it correct. I pulled out as much cable housing as I could so the crank would not hit it and placed an adjustable barrel stop at the end of the housing and had the noodle going into it. This made a nice arc that the noodle would have plenty of movement before it hit the frame. I was able to finally get it to the point that I had pretty decent braking. A wider rear wheel will help, I was running old Flashpoints that are pretty narrow and similar in width to the stock wheels. A wide wheel like Flo's or similar will help the situation.

I would take a picture, but I sold the bike earlier this year.