Did you check out the articles in the Indoor Training section that have been posted over the past several weeks? They may or may not have the information you're looking for but they're a good start point.

Wait. There are articles on this site? (pink) No, I haven't but I'll check them out - thanks!

if only there were a place where you could learn Zwift, from the rank beginnings, assuming no knowledge, step by step! i'll see if i can hunt that down for you! ;-)

installment 4 goes up this morning.

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Dan Empfield
aka Slowman

First, check to see if your dumb trainer is compatible.
Then you need ant+ speed and cadence sensors if you don't have them already. Maybe $50.
Make sure you get/have an ant+ dongle. You might even want to get a 6 ft USB to USB cable so the dongle can lie close to the sensors so you don't have power drops.
Laptop to run zwift on
Get zwift
That's about it

Ha! Yes, just finished reading - thanks! I still have questions about how the speed can be measured fairly/accurately. If it's just based on the rotation of the rear wheel - everyone may have their trainer's resistance "set" a bit tighter/slower than others. I know on my POS mag trainer it has a resistance gauge that I can adjust. How does it factor that in? Someone may be using the same trainer but set on no resistance, while someone else may have it set on high resistance... or, perhaps this is all sorted out in the set up...

It's Swift.. as in Taylor Swift, you are twelve right :)

Hi Frank -

I have been on Zwift for about a year. My dad loved the idea so much that he wanted set up from scratch too.

Here are some basic costs:


Smart Trainer - $350
You will want a smart trainer. Trust me. Having zwift adjust your trainer in real time is key to making it an enjoyable experience. When your avatar is riding up a hill, your bike gets harder to pedal. When your avatar goes down a hill, it gets easier. You do not manually adjust your trainer at all. You shift your gears on your bicycle just like you would riding outdoors.

My dad got the same trainer as me because it is one of the cheapest smart trainers on the market. Tacx Vortex. It was roughly $350 USD purchased form Europe. Both my dad and I purchased months apart from two different companies in Europe. The shipping was only $40 and is included in the $350 I listed.

If you want a higher end smart trainer, that will require your own additional research, but I can confidently say that the Tacx Vortex is cheap and effective for someone on a budget like me.

Also note, because you will be using a smart trainer, the power meter is not needed. It is part of the trainer.

Computer - $300


Zwift does not work on android devices yet, and my dad doesn't even have a cell phone. I think people can zwift using their ipad or iphone, but who really wants to be looking at a tiny screen? If you want to get the full effect of being on a virtual ride, I recommend a screen the size of a computer monitor, or even an old larged TV plugged into a computer. I purchased a computer from ebay for my dad for $300. There are a lot of sellers who build low wen PCS new and sell in bulk on ebay. Zwift system requirements are pretty low, but $300 will get you a desktop that can handle double. This gives you some room to grow if zwift graphics ever get better. The $300 computers on Ebay include a graphic card. Make sure you get a graphic card, it will make Zwift run smoother.

Note: If you already have an Ipad or Iphone, I THINK you can zwift on them without a PC, just make sure your smart trainer sends bluetooth as well as ANT+. Your devices can only read bluetooth.

ANT+ adapter ($25) and USB extender ($6)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH11PEY
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CM381SQ


The ANT+ adapter is a small card that plugs into the USB port on your PC. This allows the PC and trainer to talk to each other using ANT+ signal. The USB externder cable is optional but I recommend it. It allows you to run a cable from your USB port on your PC, all the way to your trainer, then plug the adapter into the other end of the cable. This makes the ANT+ adapter sit right next to your trainer for faster wireless transmissions with no interference.


Zwift membership ($15 per month)


Internet connection






Well, there you have it. You need a smart trainer, computer (or ios device), ANT+ adapater, Zwift membership, and an internet connection. You should be able to get all of this for $700 like my dad and I did. We absolutely love it, especially in the winter.


Oh, and don't forget you need a bike!

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"If it costs you 30 minutes at Maryland so what" -dwreal

I just picked up a Tacx Vortex on eBay for about $100 less then *new* - it was a bike shop selling a customer return. All packaging was in place and it works great. Just a suggestion for the budget conscious.

Also, Zwift forgot to update their email graphics advertising $9.99/month. So if you were on their email list as of ~10 days ago, you should be able to get 12 months for the grandfathered price.

You don't need Strava.

You can't use just your TV. You need either an iPhone or iPad or computer/laptop. If you have a computer then you need to have either ANT+ or your iPhone to link the machine to your computer.

I went cheap when I started - dumb trainer, old laptop, existing iPhone as link between. It was just fine - great, in fact. I got stronger and faster.

After a year, I upgraded to a smart trainer. Still using the laptop/iPhone set up. The smart trainer will challenge your legs more than the dumb trainer. The smart trainer's max resistance is substantially greater than riding your hardest gear on the dumb trainer. Harder = more power needed = stronger legs.

After a couple of years I'm still a lower cost than a gym membership.

Oh! And, you might check around on smart trainers. There are a lot of programs out there that will finance the smart trainer if current cash is tight. Don't pay too much in interest though!! Zero interest is awesome.

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Hillary Trout
San Luis Obispo, CA

Your trip is short. Make the most of it.
https://www.slogoing.net/

"Virtual power" does work off the speed of the rear wheel. Zwift uses a formula that calculates a speed on the "road" based on what trainer you are using, how fast the rear wheel is moving and what the slope of the virtual road is. That is how you interact with the environment and the other riders. The tricky part is that every trainer model has a different power curve so X mph does not equal the same power on every make and model of trainer. A "supported" trainer is one Zwift has data on so it can use the right formula for X mph = Y watts.

One of the reasons people get so excited about smart trainers on Zwift is that they have their own power meters (or a method of calculating power) which eliminates the errors in "virtual power' AND they can use data they get from the Zwift program on the slope of the virtual road to change the resistance so it actually feels like you are going up or down a hill, or drafting off someone, etc. But you can ride Zwift just fine and still enjoy Zwift without a smart trainer or a power meter if your trainer is supported.

You will need some sort of computing device to run Zwift since it is essentially an interactive video game.

Zwift just released an app for Apple TV so a new model Apple TV for about $175 is the cheapest way to get your "gaming computer" if you don't have a decent one laying around already. The only downside to the Apple TV route is it only hooks up to bluetooth devices (not Ant+ without some extra add on stuff).

This is great! Thank you!!

[/url]to 12 y old I would say this:

Son if you want to play video games go and play real video games, if you want to ride the bike go and ride the bike. Zwift sucks at both. Some people are saying zwift has great social aspects... "you are spinning alone in your basement" looking at some virtual avatars and having impression you have social life... Out of everything: zwift is not social at all. Social is when you spin in the group on the road, or in the spin studio where you can talk with real people, I will even go further: going on the ride alone outside, is more social that riding zwift.

As to how the speed/power works, it does not, it is approximation at best, you can enter any weight you want making your w/k same as Peter Sagan, or calibrate or not your "smart/dumb" trainer gaining 30w or more, or not tightening that resistance screw at all and again gaining extra watts.

It sells great, it have extremely good marketing system, plus it sells a lot of expensive gadgets with it, so everyone loves it, all the “influences” and “ambassadors” (WTF is that new cheap version of marketing teams?) are jerking about, because they all see profit (free hats and goodie bags) , at this rate nobody will ride bikes outside in 10-15-years.

You are not training in dark ages, it is Millennial ADD that makes you believe you are behind, and have to buy a lot of $hit to stay ahead. Outside is free, plus good old rollers inside cannot be beaten...

You can already see headlines "epic ride on zwift..." joke...

Fair enough sebo... and I hear what you're saying. Still doesn't change the fact that, for various reasons, I will be training inside like I have done for years. Just trying to improve the experience.

It sells great, it have extremely good marketing system, plus it sells a lot of expensive gadgets with it, so everyone loves it, all the “influences” and “ambassadors” (WTF is that new cheap version of marketing teams?) are jerking about, because they all see profit (free hats and goodie bags) , at this rate nobody will ride bikes outside in 10-15-years.

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Just add that it's more than just marketing....it's reality with more publicity on car/cycling interactions. I absolutely agree with you that in 15 years, we'll all be inside riding, I just don't think it's some "gimick" marketing that is going to lead to it. It's more and more awareness of distracted drivers and how you as a cyclist can do everything "right" and you still are fucked up by some idiot checking an text message or IG post.

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Brooks Doughtie, M.S.
Exercise Physiology
-USAT Level II

I wrote this for a co-worker in response to him asking "what the cheapest to get started on Zwift?".

What you need for Zwift (good):
1. Zwift account $10 per month
2. Dumb trainer – Cylceops Fluid2 or Kirt Kinetic Road Machine – either around $250 on sale
3. Bluetooth speed/cadence sensor – Wahoo BlueSC speed and cadence sensor $70
4. Computer – iPhone 5s or better (assume you currently have)

What you need for Zwift (better):
1. Zwift account $10 per month
2. Dumb trainer – Cylceops Fluid2 or Kirt Kinetic Road Machine – either around $250 on sale
3. Bluetooth speed/cadence sensor – Wahoo BlueSC speed and cadence sensor $70
4. Powermeter – Stages Powermeter – roughly $300 on sale but dependent upon crankset (assumes Shimano crankset) – see powermeter info below for other options
5. Computer – iPhone 5s or better (assume you currently have)

What you need for Zwift (best - most realistic experience – like riding outdoors):
1. Zwift account $10 per month
2. smart trainer – used Computrainer on ebay $300; Wahoo Kickr snap $600; Kirt Kinetic Road Machine Smart Control $500; Wahoo Kickr $1100 ; Cycleops Hammer $1100 – see smart trainer info below for other options
a. Both the Wahoo Kickr and Cycleops Hammer are direct drive (no wheel slippage – maximum wattage); the rest are wheel-on (just fine for most people)
3. Bluetooth speed/cadence sensor (not needed for speed if you are using a smart trainer; but it is needed for cadence) – Wahoo BlueSC speed and cadence sensor $70
a. Zwift will also capture HR using a Garmin HR strap via Ant+/Bluetooth
4. Powermeter – not needed if you are using a Smart trainer (but good to have anyway)
5. Computer – iPhone 5s or better (assume you currently have)
a. If you go the Computrainer route, you need a Window’s PC with a graphics card (e.g. gaming computer). Those start at $400 for an entry level.

My setup:
1. Zwift account $10 per month
2. used Computrainer on ebay $500 I purchased in 2008; had to upgrade to latest chipset for $50
3. Bluetooth speed/cadence sensor– Wahoo BlueSC speed and cadence sensor $70
a. I also use a Garmin HR strap which is recorded in Zwift via Ant+/Bluetooth
4. Powermeter – I have one but it is not used in this setup
5. Computer – Alienware Alpha i3 I paid $400 as I have an older laptop at home that couldn’t handle the graphics


Good youtube videos to watch:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eg0IDDmSStw

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nvdfMketrCI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=caLplKx1gek

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QBFPjirURDs

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q8fArWR-CsE



Smart trainers info:
https://www.dcrainmaker.com/...recommendations.html


Power meters info:
https://www.dcrainmaker.com/...ide2016-edition.html

There is always that one guy...

I don't know a 12 year old kid that doesn't know a few cheat codes so Zwift is perfect for you.

Get a dumb trainer and speed sensor. Then incorrectly calibrate it and you'll be a god on Zwift doing 30 miles per hour up a mountain. Whatever you do, don't get on the Zwift Riders FB page and sing lalalala whenever you hear the words Zwift Dopers.

You said talk to you like a 12 year old.

If that 12 year old had his heart set at ripping it up at some junior races next summer and he lived somewhere with a real winter that made training outside basically impossible, I'd give him a big hats off for wanting to keep himself busy and training over the winter ;-)

Some people really are not in a position to ride outside on any sort of consistent basis for 3 or 4 months out of the year.

If you were 12 you'd have Zwift figured out already. :)

Is there a cycling studio near you that uses smart trainers? If so, you could pay for a session or two and try it out. I don't know if any studios use Zwift, but you should be able to do a route which will give you a little experience with smart trainers, power, etc. That might give you a better idea of what you want in a setup and if you enjoy it enough to spend the money.

Glad you brought the computrainer info up. Quick question, how does it handle hills with the computrainer as far as resistance and perceived effort?

Generally on my computrainer I use the last software version and make the courses pretty flat since if you go over a couple percent grade it feels like you’re climbing up Pikes Peak.

If it feels pretty normal I may try it out for awhile. I just don’t want the crazy adjustment for hills that the computrainer software normally throws at you.

Definitely need a new computer anyways, mine nearly crashes just running the computrainer software.

  

Original Zwift/Trainer Road setup:
-Travel Trac Comp Mag+ Trainer: $99 on Amazon
-Garmin Speed & Cadence Sensor: ~$54 on Amazon
-Ant+ Dongle: $18 on Amazon
-Computer: Laptop I already had

Upgraded Zwift/Trainer Road setup
-Travel Trac Comp Mag+ Trainer: $99 on Amazon
-Powertap P1 Pedals: ~$900 from classified section on this site
-Ant+ Dongle: $18 on Amazon
-Computer: Laptop I already had

Current Zwift/Trainer Road setup
-Tacx Vortex: $380 on german website with shipping
-Powertap P1 Pedals: ~$900 from classified section on this site
-Ant+ Dongle: $18 on Amazon
-Computer: Laptop I already had
-Flat Screen Computer Monitor- ~$100 (Built stand from scrap wood around the garage)

I've made two videos a while back which might help.

Zwift on a Budget: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eg0IDDmSStw

Zwift IOS on a Budget: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mHVnxxWJA9s

Both over a year old now, a few things have changed.

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Shane Miller - GPLama
YouTube | Web | Twitter | Instagram | Facebook | Strava

For me, I do a calibration almost every ride. I make sure it's in the 3.00 to 4.00 range, trainer difficulty set to 50% and make sure you are using a tire with decent rolling resistance (my trainer tire is a Gatorskin) and you should be fine even on tower climb.

Shouldn't this really be moved to the Roy Moore subforum?