Yeah for some wheels you need a tool that is basically hollow. Its absurd, but just where the industry is.


example

Unfortunately, the lock ring is internally splined like a cassette lock ring. I’m wondering if I can swap lock rings out. Hmm….

Huh, the centerlock Lockring on my Zipp’s uses a bsa bb tool for instal and removal. It’s engaging the outside of the Lockring.

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"When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro."
Hunter S. Thompson

Ahaa!!! Was trying to use the lock ring that came with rotor! Didn’t realize Zipp shipped the appropriate one with the wheel. Thanks for everyone’s help! Love this place!

Yeah. I just ran across the same thing mounting up a rotor on a new Super 9. All centerlock Zipps come with external notch lockrings. But I’ve converted all to use the internal splines so I can use a lightweight Silca cassette lockring tool when removing/mounting for travel. The Super 9 has a thickend axle up to the edge of the mount end for the unsupported length past the hub bearings. There is no gap for an internal splined cassette lockring tool. I’ve had to add a Wolftooth pak tool to my travel tool kit.

Great info! Is there a benefit to internally splined over external?

Not that I know about. Both style lockrings do the same thing. I just went with internal because the tool was light and also works for cassettes. I’ve had a couple of trips screwed up with bent rotors so I always take them off now.

I only have 12mm thru axles now. But I think 15mm+ need the external lockrings. Probably not an issue with road/tri/gravel wheels.

Some bikes have a extremely close fit between the locking and the fork and a external locking won't fit.

That’s why they come with that ‘other’ lock ring that has the tooth on the outside :-).

Regards,

Jeroen

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Owner at TRIPRO, The Netherlands