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Winter Upgrade Advice
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Hey everyone. I'm a long time lurker, first time poster here.

I need some advice. I did my first 70.3 this weekend. I loved it.

I have a 13' Cervelo (old body) P3 with a mix of DA (BB, chain, shifter) and Ultegra 6700 (everything else) components. It's a big bike, I'm pretty tall. It's also a very heavy bike because of that.

Problems:
  • Despite my best efforts, I loose the chain about twice every ride. It's been adjusted by two bike shops. It even has a chain catcher, which just serves to make it harder to put the chain back on. This was really frustrating to deal with in the race.
  • I always feel like I'm searching for the right gear, and either too high or too low. Very occasionally I find that perfect gear and just jam. I hit a lot of false flats on my rides.
  • My rear D has taken the impact of a couple good falls. Not sure how much life is left in it.
  • The brake levers are a huge weakness. The TRP carbon levers feel really flimsy in my hand.

So my thought is that perhaps I should treat myself to a new group, something with another gear. Something lighter and smoother. I'm leaning towards spending 2K on Red22 which seems to have a pretty nice front D setup. I think I want to stay mechanical. Di2 seems really expensive to me. I'm not sold on it, even having tried it. I have never tried Red though. I have never tried DA 9K. My wheels are already 11spd compatible.

The other thought is perhaps stick with what I have, but use a different cassette. I have an 11-25 right now. I could go to a 12-25. I do hit a lot of hills and like that 25 tooth granny gear being available. I'm not sure 12-25 would make all the difference. It certainly doesn't address my front D ejecting my chain. This would let me spend more $ on shoes, and perhaps a nice Dash saddle.

Weight difference between Red 22 and my current setup is pretty big. I assume a friction difference is likely to be there as well. I keep going back and forth between spending big bucks or dealing with my front D.

Someone talk some sense into me. Please.
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Re: Winter Upgrade Advice [yesitsme] [ In reply to ]
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yesitsme wrote:
I assume a friction difference is likely to be there as well.

About 0.5 watts better from the derailleur pulley, chain will be a bit worse though.

The main thing would be to get something that doesn't drop your chain!



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Re: Winter Upgrade Advice [yesitsme] [ In reply to ]
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I'm sure you have heard this before...but that setup should not drop the chain, it's not like you are talking about tiagra level components here. Having said that there are two things that effect shift quality beyond the components, technique and setup. In regards to technique are you easing up on the pedals when you shift and smoothly engaging the shifter? As far as setup...a lot can be gleamed from a side view and top view pic of your front derailleur. What size gears are you running on the front?

On a personal level the only ride I have dropped a chain in the past couple years is when I switched out my normal crank (53-39) to a compact crank (50-34) without lowering the front derailleur. I needed ever bit of the extra gearing...but I could have done with out the chain dropping on me 3-4 times that ride.
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Re: Winter Upgrade Advice [yesitsme] [ In reply to ]
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Deal with the front derailleur. That's a big deal Everything else is mice nuts.
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Re: Winter Upgrade Advice [yesitsme] [ In reply to ]
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1. If you are loosing your chain 2 times a ride it is a setup issue. You need to dial in the the derailleur placement, cable tension and limit screws. Take it completely apart and re-install following Shimano directions exactly. I often find this easier and faster then trying to hunt down an existing problem.

Above advise is assuming you don't do cross chain down shifts ex. big ring little cassette to little ring. Do to the chain line it can cause problems with the chain engaging on the little ring teeth and cause drops (worse on a compact crank). If you are doing that, stop.

2. Rear derailleurs take hits, it happens. It does not shorten their life unless something breaks on it, like the cage. Go to a cross race some time, lots of slips and falls that bend hangers and scratch derailleurs. As long as it still shifts they just get up and keep racing.

3. Less weight is always nice but areo wins for speed. Getting a lighter group will not make you any faster(sorry). Why not go force 22 and save some coin if you want a new group. Will most likely save some weight and get you the 11spd, still wont make you any faster.

4. Get a new shop.
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Re: Winter Upgrade Advice [ In reply to ]
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Thanks for the replies so far!!
  • Yeah I'm usually pretty careful when I shift to pedal gently while the shift takes place.
  • Yes I have a compact crank set
  • Already have tried 2 shops (3 really) for tune ups.

I will try to take some pics of the front D tonight.

Would this sort of problem be as likely with a better group?

Is Red22 worth it over what I have?
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Re: Winter Upgrade Advice [yesitsme] [ In reply to ]
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Shimano is known for the quality of the front shifting. If you are having problems with Shimano another group will not be any better.

About 6 years ago I was racing on a complete mix group. 105 front derailleur, Ultegra rear derailleur, fsa gossmer cranks, DA bar end shifters. Can't remember ever dropping a chain. Your current rig sounds way better then that so no the dropped chains are not due to the quality of the group set you have.

If you are looking too us to justify buying Red 22, here it is.
Red will totally be like 100% better.
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Re: Winter Upgrade Advice [yesitsme] [ In reply to ]
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Chances are the group itself has nothing to do with why it is shifting poorly. Spending more money at a shop that can't make a DA/Ultegra setup shift flawlessly is pretty foolish. If it were me I would try and track down the problem first, then decide what needs to be addressed, then spend money if I have to.

In regards to your cadence issue...how big of a window are you happy pedaling in? i.e. are you happy if you are pedaling somewhere between 90-100 rpm or is the window smaller, i.e. you are only happy if you are pedaling between 90-92 rpm for instance? If your window is smaller than 10 rpm, really it should be more like 25-30rpm, then you should try to address your comfort with training to work on that specifically. A 11-25 rear cassette is pretty tight with small gaps, yes if you went to 11 speeds and got an 11-25 you would have the 16 tooth, but really it shouldn't effect you much. Maybe when this cassette wears out you can experiment with a different ratio cassette.

I guess overall this doesn't sound like a problem that needs money thrown at it. If you want to get the latest and greatest go for it, but go into knowing that you are just as likely to have these problems crop up with that as well if you don't set it up properly and you don't address the root cause of some of these problems.
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