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Transitioning from MTB (and podiuming with it!) to road bike - how “big” to go
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Greetings all,

After doing a 4 multi-sport races this year on my MTB (Trek X-Cal 8) with knobbies and making it on the podium for 2 of them, I’m finding myself hooked and wanting to see where multi-sport can take me (full disclosure - I say multi-sport because of the 4 “tri s”, two were aqua bike and one was a paddle/bike/run, but color me surprised when I learned I got first in my age group for that one!). The bike is definitely where I excel but also stall out because I just don’t have enough gear. I’ve entertained adding gear to my existing bike, because my chief complaint is that with a 1X, and a small one at that, I top out way too quickly. Unfortunately in talking with the bike shop, changing to a larger 1X that has the potential to diminish/mess up the gearing for what the bike was actually intended and I’m not sure I want to go down that route. Barring major gear changes, it seems that I can make tremendous inroads on my ride with even the most modest redirect to a road bike, so I’ve started looking into what that might look like.

I’m lucky to live in a part of the country (SoCal) where I have a lot of resources (almost too many, it’s overwhelming), e.g. I recently went to Moment Cycles to get a proper fitting on my current bike that I can apply to my future bike. The guy who did the fitting recommended I consider a Cervelo (Caledonia line), but I can’t help but wonder if a ~$5,000 bike is really the right direction. Doing a bit of searching though sent me down the rabbit hole of “oooooh, shiny…” (anyone checked out the Vitus Venon Evo RS?? Yes, same price point, but oh so pretty, even if not currently available in my size). Truth be told, it seems nearly anything will be lighter and faster, but it’s hard to deny the lure of better components. With that said, I know there are several other threads talking about bikes and how much of a difference will it really matter, and ultimately it comes down to personal priorities. I’m not eager to buy used, as I don’t feel I know enough to not get taken advantage of and I don’t have the time or interest to put into becoming so (at least I’m honest, although I did read the posting about it).

Priorities (ignoring $$ for now although $5,000 is my absolute top end)
- handling/ability to climb/good gear ratio for speed on the descent/good braking
- good/reliable components
- weight (< 20 lb)
- speed/overall gearing, ideally a 2X
- I DON’T want super skinny tires (I swear all roads have an abundance of potholes and schmutz - I want tires that I can change myself. This is a huge reason why I only used road slicks on my MTB for a hot second; even the guys at the bike shop struggled to get them off). Apparently newer bikes are coming with 28 - 30s, a width I am much more comfortable on.
- I’m less excited about the dropper bars (another reason I’ve stuck with the MTB), but I’m coming around to them, particularly if I can still comfortably reach the brakes from the higher hand position

At the end of the day, I know there is no panacea, and that there are a number of bikes that would fit the bill. Recognizing there is already a number of conversations on this subject, I’m going to ask anyway, am I crazy to consider spending so much for a bike? Would I get THAT much more out of it? I know a lot of folks have experience with Cervelo, does anyone have any experience with Vitus? (I am reasonably mechanically inclined/confident I can either build it or something comparable, and have a good shop nearby to turn to if I get stuck; I also love that the Venon was designed to not be just a road bike) Are there other brands that one should consider in the closer to $2000-3000 range or all the major brands pretty comparable at that price point? I guess to some degree I’m looking for someone to say “girl, you’re crazy, go buy a cheap bike and be done with it,” lol, while also hoping a little devil on the other shoulder says “the Vitus is amazing. Do it if you can get your hands on one.”

Anyway, that is probably enough for now. Thank you in advance for any thoughts/words of wisdom/links you have and apologies to those who feel like this question keeps coming up. Going from MTB to a road bike is a big transition for me, so I’m trying to do my due diligence, balancing a lot of reading with asking to see what the hive mind has to say. Lastly, if you’re wondering about timing, I’m aiming for a Jan/Feb purchase so I have time to train on it before the first race of the season pops up in May.

Holly
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Re: Transitioning from MTB (and podiuming with it!) to road bike - how “big” to go [Fish.girl1] [ In reply to ]
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My 2c:

  • Buy second hand - lots of peeps bought expensive carbon during Covid, which is now just collecting dust in the garage!
  • Get a carbon frame with disc brakes and electric shifting (probably post 2020 bike)
  • Make sure you get the right size (way more important than any of your other criteria). Consider a pre-purchase bike-fitting session.
From there you can upgrade in any direction you want. Saddle, gears ratios, pedals, tire size. Road bikes are trial & error, so learn as you go along and keep improving.

Riding in the drops is for sprinting and aggresive decents in the Alps.

Black Culotte & White Socks and you are 98% of the way :)
Last edited by: Mulen: Nov 29, 23 22:09
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Re: Transitioning from MTB (and podiuming with it!) to road bike - how “big” to go [Fish.girl1] [ In reply to ]
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just so that i understand, you're interested in a road bike. not a tri bike, or a gravel bike. right?

we have a front page to this forum, and i happen to be writing a series now on how i went about choosing the bikes i own (2 road bikes, a gravel bike, and a bikepacking bike based on a gravel platform). the 3 things i'd say to you, before you go down the road of making sure the bike fits you, are:

1. buy electronic shifting. many people here will disagree with me. but almost nobody who has experience with electronic will disagree with me. folks who do not have experience with - variously - tubeless, hydraulic disc brakes, electronic shifting, or anything else they don't have experience with, may well disagree on the utility of these technologies. take seriously dissenting views of those who have considerable experience with this tech. as for me, none of that tech will do anything but help you in your riding.

2. the very first thing i consider when looking at any bike for any use case, and you obviously are considering this as well, is whether that bike can accommodate my tire width for that use case. which for me is 28mm for tri and 32mm for road. for sure, i road ride on 28mm tires when it's a performance ride, but when it's an almost-gravel ride it's a 30mm or 32mm tire.

3. buy a bike that you can adjust to fit you, i.e., read my article on "stems." i would for sure consider cervelo. but i don't know why a caledonia necessarily. what about the soloist? most good road bikes these days will accommodate those 32mm tires and this is a kind of newer thing since the caledonia came out. the caledonia is a kind of performance allroad bike. but any bike can be an allroad bike if it gives you the tire width you want.

one thing about cervelo: it has an almost unique way of fitting smaller folks (if you're smaller, that is, shorter) while keeping you on 700c wheels. not that it's a bad idea to go with a 650b wheel, as you'd do with canyon on its smallest sizes. canyon and cervelo are good options for you, and you should spend between $2,500 and $4,500 for that bike and it will be 12sp disc brake electronic shift or don't buy it.

Dan Empfield
aka Slowman
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Re: Transitioning from MTB (and podiuming with it!) to road bike - how “big” to go [Mulen] [ In reply to ]
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Thanks Mulen!

The guys at REI said the same thing - so many bikes were bought during COVID, keep a lookout for a good deal for a used bike. Getting fit at least helps me know I am a 54(ish) but of course every brand is a smidge different. I would definitely ask for a test ride before I’d ever buy. I do find it interesting that both responses suggested electronic shifting. I didn’t even know that was a thing until a month or so ago when I was listening to an Olympian give a talk at my triclub. In the meantime, I’m all out of culottes, but I can definitely pull off the white socks, lol. Thank you for the chuckle and the candid response!

Holly
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Re: Transitioning from MTB (and podiuming with it!) to road bike - how “big” to go [Slowman] [ In reply to ]
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Thanks Dan/Slowman,

You are correct, I am looking at a road bike, not a tri bike. I looked at tri bikes for a hot second, but I think for where I’m at (and the fact I prefer slightly wider tires), a road bike is my best bet. I’ve actually been looking at gravel too (hence the Vitus), but either way, I think that something more road oriented with wider tires is probably really what I want.

Interesting that you too mention the electronic shifting. As I mentioned to Mulen, I only just learned that it is a thing, and now it’s something everyone seems to be recommending. At the very least I want to test ride a bike with e shifting. It’s been decades since I’ve been on a road-style bike, so you can imagine what I might have ridden (think 1980s era). It’s going to be an interesting change to say the least.

I didn’t really Cervelo was known for being good for being good for a smaller fit. Based on my fit last week I’m ~54 frame size, so pretty much middle of the road (at 5’9” and 33” inseam, nothing terribly “small” here…). As for Calendonia, the guy just seemed to think it was something I should do some research on *shrug*. I was also at Canyon a few weeks ago I where I spent some time ogling the Grail, so I should probably make the trek back out there for a test ride. So many bikes….

Anyway, thank you for your thoughts! Now to find your article on stems:-) Happy riding!
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Re: Transitioning from MTB (and podiuming with it!) to road bike - how “big” to go [Fish.girl1] [ In reply to ]
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Fish.girl1 wrote:
Thanks Dan/Slowman,

You are correct, I am looking at a road bike, not a tri bike. I looked at tri bikes for a hot second, but I think for where I’m at (and the fact I prefer slightly wider tires), a road bike is my best bet. I’ve actually been looking at gravel too (hence the Vitus), but either way, I think that something more road oriented with wider tires is probably really what I want.

Interesting that you too mention the electronic shifting. As I mentioned to Mulen, I only just learned that it is a thing, and now it’s something everyone seems to be recommending. At the very least I want to test ride a bike with e shifting. It’s been decades since I’ve been on a road-style bike, so you can imagine what I might have ridden (think 1980s era). It’s going to be an interesting change to say the least.

I didn’t really Cervelo was known for being good for being good for a smaller fit. Based on my fit last week I’m ~54 frame size, so pretty much middle of the road (at 5’9” and 33” inseam, nothing terribly “small” here…). As for Calendonia, the guy just seemed to think it was something I should do some research on *shrug*. I was also at Canyon a few weeks ago I where I spent some time ogling the Grail, so I should probably make the trek back out there for a test ride. So many bikes….

Anyway, thank you for your thoughts! Now to find your article on stems:-) Happy riding!

first off, by going to moment cycle you went to one of the premier bike fitting retail stores in the country. so, good on you there. as to why they mentioned the caledonia, one reason is that they're a cervelo dealer (of course). the other is that, if you mentioned a road bike with wider tires, the caledonia is the one bike in the cycling world known for being the bridge between road and gravel. i spent quite a bit of time on a caledonia and here is my long term review.

as to why cervelo is particularly good at making a road bike for a shorter statured person that still has 700c wheels, it's because there are probably a half dozen bike brands the world over who really understand geometry, as opposed to just making bikes the way people have always made them. cervelo does 2 things in particular:

1. they grade their sizes correctly;
2. they pay attention to a metric called "trail." this is a measure that determines how the bike will handle. they keep the trail the same throughout the size run, and that requires a number of different forks. most bike brands won't make that investment in fork molds. i don't expect you to get all of this, but the upshot is this: they will make a bike, with a 700c wheel, for a person who's 5'4", and it'll handle well; you won't feel stretched out; and you won't have shoe overlap (where the back of the front wheel contacts your shoe as you pedal).

so, yeah, the caledonia is for all those reasons a good option for you. but... electronic shifting is such a game changer that this is something you need on your new bike. a lot of bikes have caught up to the caledonia on that tire clearance thing. i have a cervelo R5 and a quintana roo SR6 and i put 32mm tires (pretty fat tires) on both those road bikes. in my opinion what you need is: electronic shifting; a bike that allows you to change the stem to fit; and tubeless wheels/tires. then, from there, make your pick. and keep coming back here for advice when you're considering a bike.

on that caledonia thing, i went over the cervelo's website and that bike with sram rival etap axs is selling for 25% off, which brings the price down to $3,525 (from $4,700). i've got a lot of miles on that groupset, and it's gold. once you get into the rhythm of riding with a sram axs drivetrain, it's pretty cool. i just wrote about that drivetain a couple of days ago. so, that bike checks all the boxes: it's made with a standard stem; perfect as a road bike that can handle wider tires (probably up to 35mm or so); good geometry for you; electronic shifting. if JT and the folks at moment recommend a 48cm in that model, you might consider getting that while they still have that bike available in that size. (if it's available in that size.) just, make those guys work a little bit more and have them set you up as full tubeless.

here's the stem article.

Dan Empfield
aka Slowman
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Re: Transitioning from MTB (and podiuming with it!) to road bike - how “big” to go [Slowman] [ In reply to ]
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Slowman wrote:
12sp disc brake electronic shift or don't buy it
Slowman wrote:
electronic shifting is such a game changer that this is something you need on your new bike.

It might be helpful to give further explanation on this. You're a big proponent of electronic shifting (as are many people), we get it, but I feel like the OP isn't familiar enough with newer bike tech to understand why. Realistically you're looking at spending an extra $1,000 (this is me on Canyon's site comparing the Endurace CF7 in 105 mech vs AXS, in $CAD) and for many of us that amount of money needs to be justified.

Caveat: I'm a bit of a luddite and am currently building up a new bike with 11sp mechanical. For me, 12s electronic doesn't solve any problems I have and introduces a few I don't currently have.
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Re: Transitioning from MTB (and podiuming with it!) to road bike - how “big” to go [ClayDavis] [ In reply to ]
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ClayDavis wrote:
Slowman wrote:
12sp disc brake electronic shift or don't buy it

Slowman wrote:
electronic shifting is such a game changer that this is something you need on your new bike.


It might be helpful to give further explanation on this. You're a big proponent of electronic shifting (as are many people), we get it, but I feel like the OP isn't familiar enough with newer bike tech to understand why. Realistically you're looking at spending an extra $1,000 (this is me on Canyon's site comparing the Endurace CF7 in 105 mech vs AXS, in $CAD) and for many of us that amount of money needs to be justified.

Caveat: I'm a bit of a luddite and am currently building up a new bike with 11sp mechanical. For me, 12s electronic doesn't solve any problems I have and introduces a few I don't currently have.

Dan posted a write-up on the front page earlier this week that may provide some insights.
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Re: Transitioning from MTB (and podiuming with it!) to road bike - how “big” to go [ClayDavis] [ In reply to ]
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She already stated her budget, so plenty of room for electronic and well worth it. Especially if she starts podiuming in roadbike too and wants to upgrade (and sell the first bike)

T


ClayDavis wrote:
Slowman wrote:
12sp disc brake electronic shift or don't buy it

Slowman wrote:
electronic shifting is such a game changer that this is something you need on your new bike.


It might be helpful to give further explanation on this. You're a big proponent of electronic shifting (as are many people), we get it, but I feel like the OP isn't familiar enough with newer bike tech to understand why. Realistically you're looking at spending an extra $1,000 (this is me on Canyon's site comparing the Endurace CF7 in 105 mech vs AXS, in $CAD) and for many of us that amount of money needs to be justified.

Caveat: I'm a bit of a luddite and am currently building up a new bike with 11sp mechanical. For me, 12s electronic doesn't solve any problems I have and introduces a few I don't currently have.
Quote Reply
Re: Transitioning from MTB (and podiuming with it!) to road bike - how “big” to go [ClayDavis] [ In reply to ]
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ClayDavis wrote:
Slowman wrote:
12sp disc brake electronic shift or don't buy it

Slowman wrote:
electronic shifting is such a game changer that this is something you need on your new bike.


It might be helpful to give further explanation on this. You're a big proponent of electronic shifting (as are many people), we get it, but I feel like the OP isn't familiar enough with newer bike tech to understand why. Realistically you're looking at spending an extra $1,000 (this is me on Canyon's site comparing the Endurace CF7 in 105 mech vs AXS, in $CAD) and for many of us that amount of money needs to be justified.

Caveat: I'm a bit of a luddite and am currently building up a new bike with 11sp mechanical. For me, 12s electronic doesn't solve any problems I have and introduces a few I don't currently have.

no problem. happy to explain and (i hope) succinctly.

1. the biggest is this: no front derailleur chain drops. FD shifting is always precise with electronic.
2. on tri bikes in particular, no long cable runs.
3. on today's bikes, where the cables are almost always internal, mechanical shifting is worse, harder to fix, and the bikes are harder to assemble.
4. the capacity to place shifters in multiple locations, which is a biggie on a tri bike.
5. on today's newer aerobars (again, a tri bike thing) mechanical cables are just often not a good match for those aerobar systems. for example, you try to cut anything down to length you have to pull the entire cable run out. not so with electronic. (esp SRAM.)

there are little things, depending on the bike, that come up. on one very popular tri bike the cables run inside the BB, under the BB spindle, through a small vinyl tube. that vinyl tube cracks with time, and by "time" i mean maybe 2yr. if you take the shift cable out, good luck trying to fish the new one through. then there are other little issues, like it's easier to build down a bike to put in a bike case for air travel without farting around with cabled RDs. you don't realize how good electronic is until you you've had it for a while, and you REALLIY understand how good it is when you then have to back to cabled for some reason.

Dan Empfield
aka Slowman
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Re: Transitioning from MTB (and podiuming with it!) to road bike - how “big” to go [Mulen] [ In reply to ]
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Mulen wrote:
She already stated her budget, so plenty of room for electronic and well worth it. Especially if she starts podiuming in roadbike too and wants to upgrade (and sell the first bike)

Sure, but just because she *has* the budget, doesn't mean she has to use it. And what she saves on the groupset she can put towards some faster wheels, which WILL make her faster, unlike an electronic groupset.
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Re: Transitioning from MTB (and podiuming with it!) to road bike - how “big” to go [Slowman] [ In reply to ]
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Slowman wrote:
1. the biggest is this: no front derailleur chain drops. FD shifting is always precise with electronic.
2. on tri bikes in particular, no long cable runs.
3. on today's bikes, where the cables are almost always internal, mechanical shifting is worse, harder to fix, and the bikes are harder to assemble.
4. the capacity to place shifters in multiple locations, which is a biggie on a tri bike.
5. on today's newer aerobars (again, a tri bike thing) mechanical cables are just often not a good match for those aerobar systems. for example, you try to cut anything down to length you have to pull the entire cable run out. not so with electronic. (esp SRAM.)

there are little things, depending on the bike, that come up. on one very popular tri bike the cables run inside the BB, under the BB spindle, through a small vinyl tube. that vinyl tube cracks with time, and by "time" i mean maybe 2yr. if you take the shift cable out, good luck trying to fish the new one through. then there are other little issues, like it's easier to build down a bike to put in a bike case for air travel without farting around with cabled RDs. you don't realize how good electronic is until you you've had it for a while, and you REALLIY understand how good it is when you then have to back to cabled for some reason.

Thanks Dan. Though I'll note that most of what you've said above applies specifically to tri bikes, which we've already established the OP is not looking for. I definitely see the value of electronic for a tri bike, I was commenting more on this specific use case of a road bike.

I guess I've just been really lucky that dropped chains and missed shifts aren't something I experience on my mechanical bikes (though one of them is 1x). Yes, setting up internal cabling is a PITA, though having also built up a bike with a Di2 group, there are some different hassles like routing in the battery. Either way I assume with the OP buying a complete bike that this is less of a consideration.
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Re: Transitioning from MTB (and podiuming with it!) to road bike - how “big” to go [Fish.girl1] [ In reply to ]
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I’d get a used or mid level road bike with aluminum or carbon frame, round tubes and seat post, 28 size tires at least, double chainring w compact front like 36-50. Disc or rim brake is fine. You can get a real top shelf used rim brake race bike for less than 3k used, if the fit works that’s what I’d do. Electric shifting is fine but it adds a lot to the price.
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Re: Transitioning from MTB (and podiuming with it!) to road bike - how “big” to go [Mulen] [ In reply to ]
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Mulen wrote:
She already stated her budget, so plenty of room for electronic and well worth it. Especially if she starts podiuming in roadbike too and wants to upgrade (and sell the first bike)

T


ClayDavis wrote:
Slowman wrote:
12sp disc brake electronic shift or don't buy it

Slowman wrote:
electronic shifting is such a game changer that this is something you need on your new bike.


It might be helpful to give further explanation on this. You're a big proponent of electronic shifting (as are many people), we get it, but I feel like the OP isn't familiar enough with newer bike tech to understand why. Realistically you're looking at spending an extra $1,000 (this is me on Canyon's site comparing the Endurace CF7 in 105 mech vs AXS, in $CAD) and for many of us that amount of money needs to be justified.

Caveat: I'm a bit of a luddite and am currently building up a new bike with 11sp mechanical. For me, 12s electronic doesn't solve any problems I have and introduces a few I don't currently have.

I don’t race any more and find I’m happy with downtube shifting on bikes that still have bosses. My cross bike is 9 speed bar end friction and it works fine and the chains and clusters are nearly free. It’s not what holds me back…
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Re: Transitioning from MTB (and podiuming with it!) to road bike - how “big” to go [jroden] [ In reply to ]
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jroden wrote:
I’d get a used or mid level road bike with aluminum or carbon frame, round tubes and seat post, 28 size tires at least, double chainring w compact front like 36-50. Disc or rim brake is fine. You can get a real top shelf used rim brake race bike for less than 3k used, if the fit works that’s what I’d do. Electric shifting is fine but it adds a lot to the price.

she could go back to 9sp and side pull brakes too. it all works. she could drive a car with crank windows and an AM/FM radio. it all works. her budget is $5,000 (tops) and that cervelo caledonia seems like her perfect bike and it's $3,500 or so, all in, with sirius radio, sunroof, and leather seats and heated steering wheel. why not just get a bike that's perfect for you, be happy with, be proud of, know that you have the state of the art (or close to it), that you can ride for the next 5 or 10 years without feeling the need to upgrade?

Dan Empfield
aka Slowman
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Re: Transitioning from MTB (and podiuming with it!) to road bike - how “big” to go [Slowman] [ In reply to ]
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Tech writer/support on this here site. FIST school instructor and certified bike fitter. Formerly at Diamondback Bikes, LeMond Fitness, FSA, TiCycles, etc.
Coaching and bike fit - http://source-e.net/ Cyclocross blog - https://crosssports.net/ BJJ instruction - https://ballardbjj.com/
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Re: Transitioning from MTB (and podiuming with it!) to road bike - how “big” to go [Slowman] [ In reply to ]
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It’s just a bike. Get something that fits and ride it a lot. All those freaking gadgets just make it more difficult to work on. Electric shift is nice though. Routing cables through the stem, integrated bars and stem, seat masts, internal anything routing, blech.
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Re: Transitioning from MTB (and podiuming with it!) to road bike - how “big” to go [Slowman] [ In reply to ]
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Disc brakes are awesome, but I really disagree on the necessity of electronic, esp at that price point. Lower end electronic groups are heavy, so a $5k electronic shifting disc bike is probably going to be fairly frustratingly heavy, because that added groupset cost also means it probably has wheels close to 2kg. The latest 11 speed mechanical groups are fantastic for road bikes, front shifting is perfect and you can shift the front derailleur with your pinky finger. A $5k bike with mechanical ultegra and hydraulic disc brakes and a set of nice, wide rims will be so much more fun to ride IMO.

I'd agree with you on a TT bike, but it really seems like most of the issues you mentioned aren't really an issue on road bikes.
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Re: Transitioning from MTB (and podiuming with it!) to road bike - how “big” to go [jroden] [ In reply to ]
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jroden wrote:
It’s just a bike.

blasphemer!

Dan Empfield
aka Slowman
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Re: Transitioning from MTB (and podiuming with it!) to road bike - how “big” to go [Slowman] [ In reply to ]
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Slowman wrote:
jroden wrote:
It’s just a bike.

blasphemer!

Just like sled dogs, they get soft if they sleep in the house or get washed too often.
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Re: Transitioning from MTB (and podiuming with it!) to road bike - how “big” to go [imswimmer328] [ In reply to ]
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Quote:

A $5k bike with mechanical ultegra and hydraulic disc brakes and a set of nice, wide rims



...is something that one literally cannot purchase new.

Quote:

The latest 11 speed mechanical groups


...were designed close to a decade ago, and released in 2016/2017.

I do get it. I spend most of my riding time on a bike with 10 speed DA. No brakes at all on that one, because it lives on the trainer. I actually have an 11 speed Ultegra mechanical shift/hydro disc group on my road bike. It's great. But the bike frame was designed in the same time frame as the groupset, as one might expect. This means I can maybe fit a set of 28 section tires in there, if they aren't too tall. And that's with a frame that was pretty generously spaced for the late teens, when it was produced.
So, no; you can't actually suggest that the OP look for a bike with "the latest" 11 speed Ultegra. You need to append...

- She needs to look for a groupset that isn't offered on *any* new bikes, so forget getting any help from the IBD, or finding something off the shelf.
.
- Frames that *were* offered for sale with those 11 speed groupsets originally almost certainly won't accept the tire sizes she's hoping to run, so she needs to look for a frame that's probably a couple of years younger than the groupset.

- Those "nice, wide rims" are, realistically, a generation younger than the frame, so will definitely want to keep an eye out there as well.

All this being the case, my only issue with Slowman's suggesting electronic shifting is that it's essentially a fait accompli on contemporary road bikes. There ain't no more mechanical Ultegra, and likely won't be again. If someone wants a bike that does all the things a contemporary road bike does, they should probably just buy a contemporary road bike. Or a bike that was built closer to the start of the *previous* century, but that's another topic entirely.

Tech writer/support on this here site. FIST school instructor and certified bike fitter. Formerly at Diamondback Bikes, LeMond Fitness, FSA, TiCycles, etc.
Coaching and bike fit - http://source-e.net/ Cyclocross blog - https://crosssports.net/ BJJ instruction - https://ballardbjj.com/
Last edited by: fredly: Dec 3, 23 18:07
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Re: Transitioning from MTB (and podiuming with it!) to road bike - how “big” to go [Fish.girl1] [ In reply to ]
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I feel like this has turned a bit into of a debate about the virtues of electronic shifting and hydraulic brakes. In part that is because it is almost impossible to get a high end or even mid tier bike these days that doesn't have these features. My take - they absolutely perform better, but the result isn't that significant in terms of performance or fun had. Regardless, to me, it is completely inappropriate to buy a $5k bike when you are just starting. I was fortunate to receive very good advice when I was just getting started: "You are buying your first road bike, not your last road bike." I didn't need to get the bike that checked all of my boxes because I didn't have enough experience to even know what boxes I wanted to have checked!

Primarily, I am concerned with you locking into a frame based on a preliminary evaluation of your geometry with minimal road experience. When I first started, I had a professional fit done and it was correct for me at the time. My saddle height is essentially the same, but that is almost all that didn't change as I became more experienced and adapted a more aggressive position. Handlebars got narrower, reach went much further, stack height decreased considerably. If you have a similar progression, the Caledonia with its high stack simply may not work. I hate to even suggest it because I am sure I will be called a Luddite, but... The same shop you visited has a Giant Contend 3 for less than $900. Aluminum frame, rim brake, Shimano Claris 8 speed, aluminum fork. Profoundly not sexy characteristics. But, it has room for 700x30c tires officially, it has a threaded bottom bracket (thank god), and it will allow you to change from a 90mm stem to a 130mm stem, 44cm handlebar to 36cm handlebar without doing anything more than undoing the bar wrap. If you want to spend more, go to Eurobikeparts and get 7000 series 105 for $400, and get a power meter. In 12 months (or 6 months since you live in an endless summer) you will have a much better grasp on your fit, what type of riding you want to do, and what features are important to you. Then you can blow the rest of your budget on a new bike (and keep the Contend on hand for trainer duty).

For me order of importance:
1. Fit (and adaptability of fit)
2. Power meter
3. Tire capacity and type
[..50 feet of crap..]
4. Frame material, electronic shifting, brake type

Good luck!
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Re: Transitioning from MTB (and podiuming with it!) to road bike - how “big” to go [l'arbitrageur] [ In reply to ]
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L’arbitrageur,

I appreciate your candid pragmatism. I do tend to have the mindset of buying quality so it will last, as well as something that I can grow into. As someone who’s no longer a 20 something but instead approaching something that starts with a 5, it’s quite likely that whatever I decide on will probably be the last “race” bike I buy, so finding that sweet spot of modern with some bells n whistles without being over the top is what I am aiming for. Space is also a consideration, so getting something with the intent to keep it as a backup if/when I upgrade is highly unlikely. All that said, I’ll definitely check the Giant out the next time I’m over there. I’m also thinking about renting a road bike for a couple of days just to see how things feel in general. I recognize they’re all a bit different (hence why I’m even asking the question!), but I think that will give me a better idea of what components I like/don’t like.

That being said, many thanks to all who have piped in. You’ve given me a lot to think about, as well as a fe chuckles on the back n forth banter. Think happy thoughts and be safe out there! As we say in the motorcycle community, shiny side up:-)

Holly
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Re: Transitioning from MTB (and podiuming with it!) to road bike - how “big” to go [Slowman] [ In reply to ]
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I wish Cervelo would discount their tribikes the way they are discounting their road bikes
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Re: Transitioning from MTB (and podiuming with it!) to road bike - how “big” to go [Fish.girl1] [ In reply to ]
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Fish.girl1 wrote:
[..] it’s quite likely that whatever I decide on will probably be the last “race” bike I buy [..]

This exact phrase has been uttered to many slowtwitch spouses, and rarely is it true. ;) I am on bike/frameset purchase #3 this year. Each one was going to be my last of the year. To be fair, they were each for different disciplines, and it is a buyer's market!
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