Since switching to 11 speed drive train, I have been surprisingly not happy with the cassette choices. I loved running a 12 -27 on my 10 speed. I really just do not see the need for an 11 cog. If I am going fast enough to spin out on an 11, I am not pedaling! Anyway the closest I can find is an 11-28 but I feel like I am wasting that 11th gear. I like the 12-25 but would like the 27 or 28 cog on most of my hilly rides. My question is, has anyone tried to take the Ultegra 12-25 and mesh it with the 14-28 or 11-28 to make a 12 or even 13-28 option? Is it doable?
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Re: Shimano cassette question [kmanio]
[ In reply to ]
It's possible. I don't think the ST crowd is your typical mix-and-match cassette crowd, so you may not get much feedback here. If you're going to drop the cash on two Ultegra cassettes, you might as well just buy the Dura Ace 12-28.
Re: Shimano cassette question [dangle]
[ In reply to ]
I thought about the dura ace but the reviews on them are terrible. Lots of failures and issues.
Re: Shimano cassette question [kmanio]
[ In reply to ]
failures? I run DA cassettes exclusively, and have had zero issues ever. and they are a bit lighter. What were the "failures"?
Last edited by:
Tucsontriguy: Feb 2, 17 12:18
Re: Shimano cassette question [kmanio]
[ In reply to ]
Buy two 5800 cassettes and combine them to make a 12-28.
cs-5800
11-12-13-14-15-17-19-21-23-25-28
12-13-14-15-16-17-18-19-21-23-25
Swap the 11-17 with 12-17 and you get:
12-13-14-15-16-17-19-21-23-25-28
and
11-12-13-14-15-17-18-19-21-23-25
Sell the 11-25, use it as a race cassette, or on the trainer.
The last three are a block (23-25-28/21-23-25), usually the first two have built in spacers, and the lock ring is different between the 11 and 12 tooth. In theory you can do whatever you want in between as they are loose cogs and spacers.
cs-5800
11-12-13-14-15-17-19-21-23-25-28
12-13-14-15-16-17-18-19-21-23-25
Swap the 11-17 with 12-17 and you get:
12-13-14-15-16-17-19-21-23-25-28
and
11-12-13-14-15-17-18-19-21-23-25
Sell the 11-25, use it as a race cassette, or on the trainer.
The last three are a block (23-25-28/21-23-25), usually the first two have built in spacers, and the lock ring is different between the 11 and 12 tooth. In theory you can do whatever you want in between as they are loose cogs and spacers.
Re: Shimano cassette question [Tucsontriguy]
[ In reply to ]
Re: Shimano cassette question [kmanio]
[ In reply to ]
There are several pics like this out there.
Re: Shimano cassette question [kmanio]
[ In reply to ]
what is that?
Re: Shimano cassette question [seppo17]
[ In reply to ]
Seppo, great idea. Thanks! I may have enough cassette sitting around to create this now.
Re: Shimano cassette question [Tucsontriguy]
[ In reply to ]
I would wager a guess that it is operator error. you can definitely over tighten a cassette. I would curious as to the conditions that caused that issue
Re: Shimano cassette question [Tucsontriguy]
[ In reply to ]
Apparently the bottom 4 cogs break apart because they are a different material. I just know I've never seen a negative review for 105 or ultegra and i'm just going off of multiple reviews that I've read on the 9000 cassette.
Re: Shimano cassette question [kmanio]
[ In reply to ]
You may be right, but when I'm seeing 3.5/5 start reviews for a $150 cassette, its hard to drop the money!
Re: Shimano cassette question [kmanio]
[ In reply to ]
BBB makes a Shimano compatible 12-27 11 speed cassette.
http://bbbcycling.com/en/bike-parts/cassettes/BCS-11S
They're $58 at Ribble.
"They're made of latex, not nitroglycerin"
http://bbbcycling.com/en/bike-parts/cassettes/BCS-11S
They're $58 at Ribble.
"They're made of latex, not nitroglycerin"
Re: Shimano cassette question [kmanio]
[ In reply to ]
interesting. I guess the carbon could come apart..
Re: Shimano cassette question [seppo17]
[ In reply to ]
seppo17 wrote:
Buy two 5800 cassettes and combine them to make a 12-28. cs-5800
11-12-13-14-15-17-19-21-23-25-28
12-13-14-15-16-17-18-19-21-23-25
Swap the 11-17 with 12-17 and you get:
12-13-14-15-16-17-19-21-23-25-28
and
11-12-13-14-15-17-18-19-21-23-25
Sell the 11-25, use it as a race cassette, or on the trainer.
The last three are a block (23-25-28/21-23-25), usually the first two have built in spacers, and the lock ring is different between the 11 and 12 tooth. In theory you can do whatever you want in between as they are loose cogs and spacers.
I've done this before with 10-speed cassettes to get the gears I wanted and it works, but there is one downside. The middle cogs are actually cut slightly different depending on what the next gear is; i.e. the 17 in the 11-28 is cut slightly different from the 17 in the 12-25, and if you look at the shimano part numbers, they are different for the same cog depending on what the jump is. Because of the different cut, the shifting will be rough between the 17 & 18.
Re: Shimano cassette question [kmanio]
[ In reply to ]
Re: Shimano cassette question [Tucsontriguy]
[ In reply to ]
There were some issues reported with the carbon carriers on early Dura Ace 9000 cassettes and Shimano implemented some design changes to address it.
I've never personally had any problems, but I wasn't using them around that time. There's a full run-down with a response from Shimano here:
https://www.bikerumor.com/...-eliminate-creaking/
I've never personally had any problems, but I wasn't using them around that time. There's a full run-down with a response from Shimano here:
https://www.bikerumor.com/...-eliminate-creaking/
Re: Shimano cassette question [kjmcawesome]
[ In reply to ]
I want the smallest jumps in the back as possible and I feel comfortable changing out cassettes and change them often. I am not a fan of changing chainrings.
Re: Shimano cassette question [awenborn]
[ In reply to ]
awenborn wrote:
There were some issues reported with the carbon carriers on early Dura Ace 9000 cassettes and Shimano implemented some design changes to address it. I've never personally had any problems, but I wasn't using them around that time. There's a full run-down with a response from Shimano here:
https://www.bikerumor.com/...-eliminate-creaking/
That letter from shimano seems to imply the fault was the chain/cog interface. Yet my understanding is that the creaking was due to play developing in the pins that hold the carbon carrier together.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TDnCj-LQpf0
I don't know if the latest versions are better or not, but I've seen online reviews at mail order websites that would indicate they still creak as of recent..
Tucsontriguy wrote:
failures? I run DA cassettes exclusively, and have had zero issues ever. and they are a bit lighter. What were the "failures"?They would crack, actually witnessed it during a race. If you look at a lot of world tour teams nobody was using DA 9000 cassettes, they were all on ultegra. The other problem with the DA 9000 cassette was lifespan, very short overall in my opinion. If you want light grab the new Sram Red cassette, same price as the DA option but 50g lighter.