The brakes aren't that bad to work on. At first I thought they were a pain in the ass but after working on them 4 or 5 times, I've changed my opinion. The easiest way to adjust them is feed the cable through the wedge and apply just enough tension on the bolt to hold the wedge to the cable. Place the wedge between the brakes and adjust the wedge up or down until you have your brakes set. Remove the wedge from between the brakes and tighten it down. Place the wedge back between the brakes, cut the cable to ensure it doesn't interfere with the return spring and you're finished. I also apply a small amount of solder onto the brake cable to keep it from fraying. I should note that you should do this with the widest rims that you plan on using. I can install a new rear brake cable in about 3 minutes using this technique and it's even easier on the front brake.

Rob,

If you want to ride harder courses with an "easier" drivetrain that won't cost you a ton of money, just get a Sram 11-28 cassette (10-speed), and if that is not enough, pair that with a Sram Compact crankset and use a 34 inner chainring. That should be your best solution right now.

As far as going to 11-speed, I would personally hold off on investing in 11 speed parts for the next two years - or at least until the market runs out of 10-speed parts for sale. This is based on personal experience and coming from someone who started racing bikes during the 70s and when 10-speeds were really just 5-speed cassettes . I have seen componentry change so much in the past three decades and tried to keep up with the technological change every five or so years. At some point I was a full time graduate student and couldn't afford buying new bike stuff that I was only one using 7-speed cassettes during races and all my other competitors where using 8-speeds.

I skipped the entire 8-speed generation (about 7 years of no upgrades) and went straight up to 9-speed when Shimano introduced their 25th Anniv Gruppo in 1996. Although I never really used an 8-speed group, it didn't make me any weaker as a cyclist and it did not compromise my races.

.

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Hey Carl,
I have searched through/read most of the thread and can't find a direct answer for this...
I fitted my duo trap sensor to my SC 9.9 yesterday but could not fit it without removing the rubber grommet that is located on the inside...
I am now unable to put the grommet back in....
I have read part of a thread that suggested trimming the grommet to put it back in...
Should I trim the grommet or just not worry about reinstalling it?

Hi Bump

it can be tough to get the Duotrap sensor through the grommet, but a little lube does help...I've used everything from spit to grease. if you want to try trimming it, the part you want to try and cut out is the inside forward lip (as in, inside the chainstay where you can't see it after installation, closest to the front of the bike). I can't imagine trying to put the grommet back in after the duotrap has been installed without it...not going to happen...so you'll need to remove the duotrap and reinstall the grommet (modified or otherwise) before lubing and reinstalling the duotrap.

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Carl Matson

Grazi Carl

I've recently started having problems with 'speed wobble' at around 32 mph on my 9 series SC. The only thing that has physically changed on the bike is a change from Aura 5 clincher wheels to Zipp Firecrest 404 tubulars and substituting the stock saddle for a Cobb saddle.
Can I assume that the wobble is purely due to the wheels? Can it be a headset nut issue? A specific SC issue (loose something I assume...) that I should troubleshoot?
Has anyone out there had any problems with 'speed wobble' on their speed concept? What was the resolution? Anything I should be particularly aware of?
I'm wondering if it's a clincher/tubular problem....
At this point, I can't even imagine my usual 40+ mph descent at IMLP.
Any thoughts/advice/experience would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Eric

checking the headset adjustment is pretty easy...simply lock your front brake and try rocking the bike fore-aft...if your headset is loose (which may or may not be contributing to the speed wobble), you'll feel it. there are other symptoms of a loose 9-series headset that I'd have expected you to notice already, though...creaking in the stem area for example...so I wouldn't be surprised if your headset is fine.

if the change in saddle changed how you sit on the bike that could be a player. weight distribution makes a difference in speed wobble. along those same lines, did anything else change...example: you added a behind-the-saddle 2-bottle carrier for the first time with full bottles, etc. I never got a wobble on my SC (or TTX before that) when I put a couple bottles behind me...but the one time I tried that on my Madone was the last time I ever tried that.

wheels can certainly be a factor..so can the wind conditions.

suggestion: after you confirm your headset is OK, start isolating variables. go back to your old wheels and saddle and then just change one of them...try new saddle old wheels...then old saddle and one new wheel...then the other new wheel...etc...and see where the wobble returns.

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Carl Matson

Carl,
Thanks, I'll check the headset.
I'll try the old seat (sold the wheels) and try to troubleshoot as you recommended.
The only other thing I changed (thanks for the reminder) is that I removed the SpeedBox behind the saddle.....do you think this might affect the stability/induce wobble?
I've been riding in a particularly windy area....maybe that's all it is.
Many thanks.
Eric

I'd be surprised if removing the Draftbox made that big a difference...even if fully loaded. It essentially becomes part of the frame, so I can't see it becoming a separate node for system stiffness purposes. The difference it makes in weight distribution is also so small compared to what even relatively small changes in your position would do.

Still, it's a variable, and one you can test.

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Carl Matson

So I adjusted the shifting on my SC 9.9 this afternoon. Started unscrewing the two small screws on the side of the stem and CRACK, the top plate of the stem cracks in two. Pissed me off. Can I order just the cover for a 110mm handle bar stem or do I have to order the entire stem (which I know are depressingly expensive). Please advise Carl and thanks.

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Barry Dmitruk
2017: Florida 70.3 (done); Mont Tremblant 70.3 & Ironman

the cover is available separately. want to make sure I get you the right PN though...when you say 110 stem, are you talking about the 110/75? the PN for that cover is 420545

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Carl Matson

That's the one, Thanks Carl.

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Barry Dmitruk
2017: Florida 70.3 (done); Mont Tremblant 70.3 & Ironman

Hi Carl. Going back thro' your replies I get the impression that there are different BB bearings for different models of SC. I have a 7.5 and the BB bearings need replacing. I would like to do so with ceramic bearings. Do I need the 411813 Kit for this model of SC? Many thanks.

hi ex-c

411813 is for the BB90 9-series bikes. 7-series bikes take BB86, and I'm not aware of any ceramic versions of that BB. the standard replacement BB86 PN for a GXP (SRAM) system is 419620. For shimano, 419609.

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Carl Matson

Carl. That information has saved me a lot of heartache and returned packages - truly grateful.

Carl,
After rocking my bike back and forth with the front brake locked, there is in fact a fair amount of play in the frame/fork. Looks like it is in fact a loose headset. Is it asking too much for you to send me a picture of what bolts I have to tighten and to what Nm spec I should tighten them?
Let's hope this solves the wobble!
Thanks in advance.
Eric

here's a link to the Speed Concept owners manual.

remove the stem cover bolts (p10, fig 4)

loosen the stem pinch band bolt (p6 fig 1)

tighten preload nut (aka steering axle nut, p6 fig 2) to 2.5Nm MAX, which should remove all play from the headset

retighten stem pinch band bolt, to 5-6Nm

reinstall stem cover, bolts go to 2.5Nm MAX

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Carl Matson

hello! this may be a stupid question, but here goes. i just got a sc 7 as my softride bit the dust last week:( really enjoying my first few rides. what do people use to carry food on long rides? due to the cable routing, my bento box won't work. any recommindations would be appreciated:)

While we can't claim to be totally objective, we suggest one of these, or one of these. The Speedpack 480D and 483D are able to bolt right on to your SC's top tube storage bosses.

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Advanced Aero TopTube Storage for Road, Gravel, & Tri...ZeroSlip & Direct-mount, made in the USA.
DarkSpeedWorks.com.....Reviews.....Insta.....Facebook
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Hi Carl,

I need some help choosing right size of frame and stem for new SC9 series. I am 181cm with short legs. I am riding now SC7 size L with 60mm stem and these are my numbers:
Base bar stack: 60
Base Bar reach: 64
Pad Stack: 63
Pad reach: 46,5
Saddle height: 75,5
Saddle setback: 0

Position is ok, but could be a bit lower, which is not easy with L size frame. I am now siting in 0 position, but I could go a bit backwards. Should I go with Large frame and short stem or Medium frame and long stem? What is your suggestion for frame and stem?

Juha

Its a weird set of coordinates(your basebar is comparatively high/close compared to your arm pads) but I think the closest you'll get to your current fit is a Medium with a 100/45, resulting in:
basebar stack reach: 575/678
armpad stack reach, you would be right in the middle of the range

On a large with a 60/45 your basebar coordinates are a perfect match but you won't be able to get low enough. With a large and one of the short stems, you get your coordinates at armpad as well but again basebar is farther off than the medium.

I'm with Runless...medium and 100/45.

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Carl Matson

Charlie, There is a specific Bontrager box that fit on the top cross bar behind the stem to carry stuff. It's not AS wide as a Bento, but take out the dividers and you can cram things in there.

What is the required tool needed to remove the draft box? It seems it is held by one single bolt but I cannot see what type of tool is needed to loosen the bolt.

5mm allen wrench.