I ended up keeping the stock fork, but am in the works of cleaning up that front cable.

Sure it'll only save me in the area of 1watt, MAYBE, but the clean look will be worth 500 aesthetic points.

What direction do you think the airflow is going at the top of the fork, esp. the inside where the tire passes through the crown.

I haven't been able to find a fork that is faster with the fork behind it, in fact, I've seen data where a Modolo Kronos improved the aerodynamics more than NO BRAKE at all.

A fork alone is a pretty easy thing to make fast, puting it on a bike with a spinning aero wheel is where it all goes to pot.

-SD

Beside the fact that there are very clear rules requiring front brakes and that the front brake delivers almost all of the real stopping power on a bike, how much do people think front brakes hurt aerodynamically. I am sure that the round straw sticking up 6" from a front mounted bottle creates more drag than the brake and cables. For a pure TT bike going after the Hour Record, it might matter but you don't use them on a track anyway. On the road, the cable routing creates most of the drag, just use 1" tape on the exposed cables to give them a tail section for a better aspect ratio, set your brake levers to run horizontal, the calipers don't create many problems up by the fork crown. When the front caliper is mounted on the back side of a fork, it moves the brake out of plane and the brake shoes are then running at a steep angle, this causes more blockage inside the fork crown at exactly the point where air pressure needs to be blead off. Air accumulation from the rotating tires is the strongest just on the back of the fork crown/ downtube intersection, keep this area clean. By having the air pressure accumulate in this area, the wheel watts go up, increasing 3-4 watts to turn the wheel from bad air flow management is a bad plan.