I'm going to go against the grain here and suggest a "Monster Cross". Background:
- I've been MTBing since 1986, when I bought my first MTB (fully rigid Diamondback Apex), right after moving to Santa Barbara.
- Acquired my first front suspension fork in ~'90 (Tange Shockblades - massive 12mm of elastomer travel)
- Bought first full-suspension MTB in '93 (ProFlex 853)
- Bought a MTB tandem (Yokota Twin Peaks) as a "Christmas Gift" for my wife in '95 - best part was she tried to buy the exact same bike for ME that Christmas. Still have it :-)
- Acquired 2nd FS MTB in 2000 (close out '99 K2/Proflex 4000RS)
- Raced MTBs in the mid-90s through early 2000s, including the old "Trees and Breez Classic" in Santa Cruz...so, I'm slightly familiar with the nature of those trails (which are much less rocky than the SB trails).
So, as you can see, I've spent a TON of time MTBing over the past 3 decades, going from fully-rigid steel bikes to 5" travel FS. More recently I've been spending nearly ALL of my "dirt time" on what I call a "full-rigid, drop-bar MTB", or what you are calling a "Monster Cross" style bike (Fuji Jari).
Here's why I'm suggesting that:
- One thing I realized when going back to a full-rigid bike is the skills that were learned and reinforced early-on in my riding that just make things better as you go on. Things like line selection, weighting/unweighting, limited traction climbing balance, switchback control...etc. You just learn those things more acutely on a rigid bike. As others pointed out above, when you start adding suspension it makes things easier...which I feel ends up limiting your total skillset. Later, if you start hankering for doing more technical trails and/or fast descents, then you'll be well set up to use suspension.
- When I was riding pure MTBs, I tended to drive to the trailheads...not just because MTBs aren't as enjoyable to ride on the road, but it wears the tread blocks more quickly. With the "All-road", or "Monster Cross", I use smoother, better rolling tread...and if the tire is wide enough, you really don't give up much traction or control off-road due to the extra low pressures you can run. The tire just conforms. On the "flowy" trails in the redwoods around SC, I imagine they'd do just fine. However, now you can ride to the trails (and back) in an enjoyable manner. This has greatly expanded the types of loops I do these days that incorporate dirt
- If you have any thoughts of branching out into any bikepacking or "adventure rides", that's going to be the more appropriate rig.
Lastly, for anyone new to MTBs, or off-pavement riding in general, I highly recommend picking up a copy of this book:
https://www.amazon.com/...rds=mountain+bike%21 It's an oldie...but well worth the read. It cuts down on much of the MTB skillset learning curve, and does it in a humorous manner.
Anyway, just my 2 centavos from a MTB old man...
http://bikeblather.blogspot.com/