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I'm having problems with my rear brake. I squeeze to engage but it doesn't return to the open width that it should. Through research it seems like the pivot points (not sure what to call them) get jammed up with debris due to being on the bottom of the bike. The cable and housing seem fine. WD40 didn't do much, so I wanted to take them off and clean them myself. Now the problem: I removed the caps, screwed out the two bolts attaching it to the frame but I still can't pull them off the frame despite giving it quite a bit of force. Any suggestions? Here are some pics, thanks for the help. Back view (bike is positioned upside down) http://i.imgur.com/punlkDx.jpg Side view: http://i.imgur.com/30uIHXEl.jpg Bottom view: http://i.imgur.com/ve0ss7xl.jpg *Additional question: what is the purpose of the little screw that is seen in the side view?
Last edited by:
AJS91: Dec 4, 16 17:20
I do not know what those side bolts are for I had the same brake on the front of my shiv. You need to undo the brake cable and pull the the brakes off. they might be a little stuck from gunk and such but once you remove the bolt covers and unscrew the bolts it should just slide off maybe a little wiggle here and there. might need a little muscle but that is how they come off.
from the manual the side screws are used for this "Using the 2.5mm adjustment screws in the right and left brake arms
make small changes with the adjustment screw until the brake is centered."
2019 T-Rex Tri Series
Last edited by:
mknight84: Dec 4, 16 17:44
So, multiple things with this brake. Cause it is underneith, it can get clogged and rust. Two problems. The rusting thing, the internal pivot bushing is usually brass. the brake boss is usually steel. pull the brakes off and clean the boss super well and clean the internal pivot bushing. take a piece of sandpaper and wrap it around the boss and sand it clean and sand it down a tiny bit. when putting it back on, put a really good grease like finish line teflon grease. and put a bunch of it on. DONT USE WD-40!!!! It gets very dirty and gummy.
for the clogging and dirty, clean it more frequently after you do the above and it will be fine. use really hot water and an old toothbrush. it works well for cleaning the garbage out and power drinks. if you want, use a diluted citrus degreaser and an old toothbrush. AFTER using the citrus degreaser, USE WATER!!!! Citrus degreaser is water soluble. it will kill it. you want that or the degreaser is still trying to work. After the cleaning, use Tri Flow or some other kind of lube with teflon. I use tri flow on a q-tip on all the bolts of a tri bike. cause like on stems and aerobats, sweat drips on the bolts. so I coat the heads frquently. no rusting. Use grease on the threads tho.
as for the little screw, it is a centering screw. it allows you to adjust the pads so they are centered with the wheel. it hits a little plate in the pivot that pushes the spring. it moves the brakes side to side so they are an even distance from the rim.
anything else, just ask!
I really appreciate the responses. I was able to get rid of a lot of fine sand like material in the pivot areas. It works nearly flawless now.
The small set screws on the side view are the micro-centering adjustments. They put torque on the l/r side arms independently in order to center up the pad spacing from the brake track of the rim on the l/r sides. Internally, there is a cam that is connected to a coil spring that puts tension on the arm by way of the set screw. The more turns in, the tighter the torque, and thus the more rebound (pull back away from the rim) that arm moves, thus giving you the ability to center the brake pads over the rim width. Usually, you need to adjust both sets screws as a pair, ie: turn the right one in 1/2 turn, & turn the left one out 1/2 turn.
Team Zoot-Texas, and Pickle Juice