I wouldn't call it ingenious but I took an eTap blip shifter and spliced the wires that come out of it so that it fires both shifters at once, giving me one button FD shifting on my road bike.

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Jonathan Blyer,
ACME Bicycle Co., Brooklyn, NY

Hello jonblyer and All,

I like it ...

The blip box is fastened to my right hand so I do not have to fool with wires and can shift regardless of hand position. (with Morf that will probably not be the best practice ... since my hands will stay located on the same part of the bar.)

But shifting the FD by pressing both buttons at once (in the middle of the blip box) is not as positive as I would like .....

With your idea maybe I will add one blip shorted and taped to the blip box to shift the front derailleur ..... so I end up with the up and down shift buttons on the blip box and one additional blip button for a more positive FD shift.

I will experiment ...............

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Cheers, Neal

+1 mph Faster

I wish i took photos, about six years ago I was doing swim coaching for a guy with a paralyzed shoulder. His mountain bike was awesome. Cable breaks with a bmx cable splitter adjusted so the breaks would pull at the same time but the front would touch first.
Gears were a left hand grip shift on the right and trigger shifter for the rear.
He was a former motorcycle rider so was quite skillful. The part that blew my mind was that he did all his own wrenching. One handed!

Nothing overly extravagant or ingenious


But I used to make these aero crank covers. No idea if they ever helped aerodynamically at all, but they looked cool and didn't require (although it wouldn't hurt) being permanently bonded on. They also didn't cost as much as a Vumachrono at the time ;)

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My Blog - http://leegoocrap.blogspot.com

That's brilliant. You could potentially work the blips/blip box into a custom glove of sorts.

Dang Chris, you never told me about those. That is definitely not a hack-job. Looks very pro.

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Not sure how ingenious this is, but I took some thick AL sheet metal and some small stainless screws (and a hacksaw, a file, and a drill) and I created a custom arm that converted a (road) bottom pull FD to work as an gravel bike top pull FD, so it would work on my top pull routed frame. It took some precise measuring and trigonometry to get it right, but it works flawlessly.

The bike and some close up pics:






Greg @ dsw

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Advanced Aero TopTube Storage for Road, Gravel, & Tri...ZeroSlip & Direct-mount, made in the USA.
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For a retro-race I once made an aero helmet with cardboard and packing tape (as was a fairing over a road helmet). I think it was quite effective. I averaged 25 mph on my lowest watts ever, even though the cutoff mesh football jersey was flying in the wind.

You know they make clamps with a pulley for that, right? ;-)


http://cyclocrossworld.com/...p-with-cable-pulley/

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http://bikeblather.blogspot.com/

I thought they turned out good. The problem (well, for marketing it anyways ;) ) was that I needed the crank in my hands to make it fit right. I suspect the new hidden bolts in most cranks means it would have to be bonded to the rings nowadays as well.

This isn't really something for triathletes, but it was a hack (I stole) to add straps to shimano pedals for track... slightly more elegant looking than zip ties. Works great fwiw, although I suspect my chance of coming out of my pedals anyways was very...very low.

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My Blog - http://leegoocrap.blogspot.com

Nothing super genius, but a simple solution to a problem I had.

Used a pvc pipe with holes drilled on either side and zip ties to create a round mounting surface for a bike light between my aerobars.

I'll post a photo later

http://forum.slowtwitch.com/...0aero%20bar#p5861314


I made a custom aero bar. Primary benefits: it let me get lower (by eliminating stack height of elbow pads), gave me storage that allowed me to get rid of a frame bottle, allowed "hiding" the shift cables from the wind, and increased cross wind stability. (The stability improvement was really great.)

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2015 USAT Long Course National Champion (M50-54)

There's a who blog dedicated to this
http://yourbikehatesyou.blogspot.com/

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I talk a lot - Give it a listen: http://www.fasttalklabs.com/category/fast-talk
I also give Training Advice via http://www.ForeverEndurance.com

The above poster has eschewed traditional employment and is currently undertaking the ill-conceived task of launching his own hardgoods company. Statements are not made on behalf of nor reflective of anything in any manner... unless they're good, then they count.
http://www.AGNCYINNOVATION.com

Something I brainstormed is figuring out how I could potentially get eTap to work on a mountain bike using blips as the shifter. Then you'd have wireless shifting and hydraulic brakes, so an absolute dream for travel.
I'm thinking you'd need to buy a Red eTap RD, then swap the cage out for either an XX1 cage, or just maybe you could somehow trick the Red RD to shift 12 times and do it as Eagle. I know with mechanical RDs you can trick a "10 speed" RD to move 11 times, but the electronics might prevent it. Still, it's probably possible with XX1 and you'd still have 1x11.
Ultimately I decided to just go standard XTR Di2 but keep my 10-42 cassette, which took its own finagling of the shifting settings, but it's working ok so far, just wish I didn't have wires everywhere!

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IG: idking90

I do indeed.

But then I would have been out an extra 25 bucks and, for that sum, my reward would have been FD cable routing that would have been as elegant as this:



I figured that I could at least do better than that.

And, it worked out, my solution cost me under a 2 bucks, plus it was kind of a fun problem to solve. And the FD cable routing ended up perfect, with flawless shifting too. And no FD cable slowly sawing through the frame's AL alloy cable stop at an angle ... yikes.

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Advanced Aero TopTube Storage for Road, Gravel, & Tri...ZeroSlip & Direct-mount, made in the USA.
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My vote goes to DSW for the 11-speed hack for 10-speed wheels. Works a great way to keep your 10-speed wheels relevant.

http://darkspeedworks.com/blog-11speed.htm

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/kj

http://kjmcawesome.tumblr.com/

 




Not a major mechanical cleverness, (those tended to be in making brackets, tools and jigs when I was in the bike shop) but I was quite proud of how this turned out to tidy up the Garmin mount and Di2 control box. Button and LEDs still accessible.

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Developing aero, fit and other fun stuff at Red is Faster

I have three built bikes, two retro MTB's (1990 Marin and 2000 Airborne Ti) and my tri bike.

I also have two 'projects' - fat chance yo eddy and a Raleigh burner.

All are covered in small mods, each making the bikes 'better', more useful (to me) or just simply to make them individual.

All my mods are 'mechanical' from simple cable stops - from a crappy ally thing that won't hold the housing straight :



To a nicer Ti version to match the look of the campag brake adjusters :





Recycled Ti handle bar off cuts :



To hold the shifters securely :



Recycled broken USE carbon post :



To make into a custom computer mount (wraps around my torpedo) :





That mounts on my custom BTA mount.

Custom seatpost clamp :



To mount my custom carrier :





All my kit is loaded with this kind of stuff, I just have to be 'messing' with something ... lol

Currently working on Ti bolt on skewers - low profile front, low (ish) profile rear that doesn't need to be swapped out for the trainer. Trainer mounts to suit last item. Ti Co2 and inflators holder. etc, etc, etc ... ;-)

WD :-)

I didn't like the way the stock rear brake cable stop on my Transition "hung out in the breeze" off of the BB, so I designed and 3D printed this part instead. Not sure if this counts as a "hack job" though...

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http://bikeblather.blogspot.com/

That's really nice, and solves something that irked me with the Transition, but I didn't have it for long enough to do something like that.

My 3D printing bits (cheating?) are mainly brackets like an aerobar GoPro :

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Developing aero, fit and other fun stuff at Red is Faster

Thanks...and I forgot to mention that I actually designed it so that the cross-section which is horizontal (when installed) is parabolic :-)

3D printers are handy things to have for little brackets and such (like your GoPro mount). I've even occasionally printed small "shims" to put under device handlebar mounts to take up the difference between a bracket designed for a 31.8mm diameter bar and the old 26mm diameter bars I run on some rigs :-)

On the subject of 3D printed parts, another part I tried for a bit was THIS shifter mount for a mono-bar style setup. The "axle" for the shifter bosses was a part scrounged from an old Profile Design kit intended to mount downtube shifters in the "point" of a loop-style aerobar. This worked really well, but I wasn't quite enamored of the mono-bar style setup from a stability standpoint.

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http://bikeblather.blogspot.com/

3D printed stuff looks great, especially the transition... it's some paint away from looking like it came that way.

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My Blog - http://leegoocrap.blogspot.com

Yeah...I sold the Transition before I got around to painting it. Last I checked, the guy I sold it to is still using it :-)

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http://bikeblather.blogspot.com/

Nice part!

Is that really 3D printed, it is so smooth, it looks like it was injection molded ....

Also, how did it attach to the bottom of the downtube, did you drill your frame for screws ?

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Advanced Aero TopTube Storage for Road, Gravel, & Tri...ZeroSlip & Direct-mount, made in the USA.
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