Huh? What hubs and rims? Forget the length. You have bigger issues here with the count.

---

----------------------------------------------------------

What if the Hokey Pokey is what it is all about?

OK, first off, I'm assuming you mean 8 holes and 12 holes per flange

Secondly, the number of holes in a hub should equal the number of holes in the rim

HOWEVER I have seen people build a wheel with more hub holes than spokes... it looked really tacky and I can't imagine that it was very strong.

Concerning the rear, if you have 12 hole on each flange, you could technically run 12 spokes on the drive side 2X and 8 radial on the non-driveside. Fulcrum almost uses this pattern (a 2:1 ratio) on some of their wheels, but I STILL would avoid building a wheel like this.

---

*
The Dude abides.

Maybe I'm not understanding your answers... The rims are 650c X-Treme Matrix and the hubs are also from X-Treme. They were supposed to arrived with the spokes, but didn't (long story...). I've decided to have them built up by my local shop, but of course I need to order the spokes first...

The rear rim does indeed have 20 holes in total and the hub has 12 holes per flange. Could it be that I (on top of everything else..) received the wrong hub for those rims? I really don't know anything about wheelbuilding... Should it be a 10holes per side hub for the 20 hole rim? Despite they recommending a 2x pattern for the drive side and a radial for the non-drive side?

---

"Suddenly the thought struck me. My floor is someone elses ceiling"-Nils Ferlin

i remember a post where superdave built up a wheel somehow w/mismatched hub & rim. (but with spokes, of course). it was the sort of thing that _can_ be done; but also the sort of thing you don't want to be trying unless you've got a lot of wheelbuilding under your belt already.

You're not going to squeeze that 24 hole hub onto the 20 hole rim easily. It would require non-profiled rims (holes drilled directly through the center of the rims, not angled to the hubs flanges. You'd need to lace the hub completely on the drive side, using two holes then skipping one, lace two, skip one, etc...of the spoke holes, lace them into the 20 hole rim 2x running the two parallel spokes to the rim on consecutive holes but in opposite directions at the hub. You'll basically lace 2/3s of the spokes (8 of them) 2 cross into the rim. Next, run the remaining drive side holes with the heads in radially to the rim to the spoke holes centered away and between the two parallel spokes, bisecting the ~90 degree angle the 2x spokes make near the hub flange. On the opposite side, choose the same ...lace two, skip one... pattern you began the drive side with but lace the spokes radially with the heads out. Choose the holes in the flange that allow the spoke to run straight from the flange to the two spoke holes on either side of the radially laced spoke on the drive side.

Sorry this can't be drawn here to be simplified. The resultant wheel should be plenty strong in 650c and use 12 drive spokes and 8 non-drive. As a final suggestion, I'd use 14/17 butted spokes on the crossed drive side, 14/15 on the radial drive side, and 14 guage bladed spokes on the non-drive side.

I've built a few wheels using mis-matched hubs and rim drillings and it cannot always be done, but in this case, and in many others, it can result in a strong reliable wheel.

If any wheelbuilders read this and disagree, let me know if I've missed something with my math or explanation.



Good Luck audiojan,

-sD

Sheldon just bailed me out again with a unique wheel assembly I'm trying.

I found that the spokecalc and this infor by damon helpful:

http://sheldonbrown.com/rinard/36-24.htm

-SD

---

https://www.kickstarter.com/...bike-for-the-new-era