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Gluing Tubulars -- the Actual Tires
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Putting down glue on the rims is easy since they are smooth. But the base tape gluing process... I'm smearing it on there, pretty darn thin. Any tips for this, like whether it should be a very thin layer, etc. The tape seems to kind of soak it up a little, and I've put on just enough for it to stay shiny.

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Re: Gluing Tubulars -- the Actual Tires [Aztec] [ In reply to ]
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Depends on the tubie. Some are dry and need a couple coats others have a rubberized coating on the basetape and don't need much. Using a pair of latex hospital like gloves on the index finger sure helps. Just don't get it too stuck to the rim or tire. You mentioned Tufo in another post so I assume you are talking about them. I usually put a couple of thin layers so the white tape looks sort of whisky colored. Hope that helps. G
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Re: Gluing Tubulars -- the Actual Tires [G-man] [ In reply to ]
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Nope, Zipp tires. Tape is black.

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Re: Gluing Tubulars -- the Actual Tires [Aztec] [ In reply to ]
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I put on two thin coats - the base tape is supposed to absorb quite a bit of it.
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Re: Gluing Tubulars -- the Actual Tires [Aztec] [ In reply to ]
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Tub base tape absorbs most of the first layer of glue. I e mailed bunnyman (as he is the tubular king) when I finally got my Nimbles (also his recommendation), and he says about three layers of glue, applied about an hour apart. It isn't covered in his tubular tire instructions on this forum, but he says at least three layers. He said something about the pores of the glue strip (or base tape) being filled with glue to help the subsequent layers stick to the top of the tire and to thoroughly bond to the glue strip. He also does not believe in leaving a six inch strip of unglued tire anymore as it can cause a rolled tubular if it is just a bit more than six inches. Maybe three inches if you believe in the rest of your gluing job. He says you can actually get the tire off in a race by using a tire lever if you glue it the entire way around.

e mail him at velobunny@aol.com if you want the skinny.


Natas, formerly Satan, formerly Sammo, formerly lucifer
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Re: Gluing Tubulars -- the Actual Tires [Aztec] [ In reply to ]
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I find that a small paintbrush works better than a finger - it's easier to smooth out the glue and keep it on the base tape. It helps to keep the coats nie and thin, too. I typically go with 3 coats on the tape, and one on the rim. I like my 4" gap, too (although I do close it with just the thinnest layer of glue on the last coat applied to the base tape). The amount of force it would take to push a properly glued tyre off a rim is pretty huge - and while I have no scientific data to back it up, I'm pretty sure that if that much pressure were being exerted sideways on my tyre, I'd be be close to fucked anyway.


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Re: Gluing Tubulars -- the Actual Tires [Khai] [ In reply to ]
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Interesting. And totally contrary to what everything I've read about gluing tires. I'll go with you guys on this and do multiple coats.

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Re: Gluing Tubulars -- the Actual Tires [Aztec] [ In reply to ]
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Use TUFO Extreme Tape
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Re: Gluing Tubulars -- the Actual Tires [trianimal] [ In reply to ]
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I was initially sold on the Tufo Tape... but my gripe with it is that you can never remount or reuse the tire once you have taken if off the wheel.

Had a defective Zipp rim. Removed the tire for warranty replacement of the rim, but can't use the tire again.

Had a near crash that damaged 2 Zipp 404s, tires near new. Same issue. Can't get all of that tape off, and it leaves a residue on the base tape as well.

That now makes 3 expensive tubular tires with nothing wrong, except for the Tufo tape residue stuck to them.

I'm switching to the Vittoria Mastik glue going forward.
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Re: Gluing Tubulars -- the Actual Tires [Khai] [ In reply to ]
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"I find that a small paintbrush works better than a finger"

I use flux brushes. They are wicked cheap - like 16 cents a piece - and are over in the plumbing section near the torches.
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