56 P2 stack and reach: 540 + 425
58 S5 stack and reach: 588 + 401

So the 56 P2 had 30mm of spacers and a 100m -6 stem. I can't do the math in my head regarding stem angle, but your S5 will need to be a 120-130mm stem (prob -17, but that depends on aforementioned math) and no spacers. You can buy whatever handlebars you want, just know that it will potentially impact the fit but as long as the contact points are easily manipulated shouldn't be a big deal.

Great many thanks! I'm scratching my head with respect to the Di2 shifters on the aerobars. I don't think it's possible to upgrade an Ultegra 7790 Di2 system to use aerobar-end shifters? I can only use the regular ones?

This may or may not help out - an article posted by the owner of Fit Werx, a bike/tri shop in the Boston area. He's a pretty darn good biker: http://fitwerx.com/...-winning-cervelo-s5/

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Wow very cool! I'll try get a video of me on the s5 up this evening to compare with the P2.

I'll be doing triathlons so won't have the same concerns as Mr Phillips!

Do you mean Ultegra 6770? Is it the original system that came with the S5? Any of the 2nd Generation Di2 systems with e-tube wiring can be cobbled together in various combinations. The only limitations are mixing front and rear derailleurs from different series, mixing front and rear derailleurs from road and MTB systems and some recent issues with the latest BTLE enabled batteries and the D-Fly shifting info pods.

If you have the original OEM Ultegra Di2 install, you will need to swap out the front Junction A (has the system status light and shift adjuster button) for a 3 port or 5 port Junction A so you can connect extension shifters (3 port) or extension and basebar shiters (5 port) to your existing Di2 system. Depending on your Di2, the components may require firmware upgrades to work together. With your external batttery system you will probably need the Shimano programmer to make changes. With the internal battery system you can use the battery charger to link to a PC. If your LBS is Di2 savvy they could help with the changes.

Wow I have spent literally all afternoon trying to find the steps I need to go through to upgrade my Di2.

Huge thanks! I will confirm the model numbers tomorrow perhaps. What do you think of those aerobars?

Check out Carlton Bale's site on Di2. He's been compiling info on the systems for several years: https://carltonbale.com/...ng-you-need-to-know/

The definitive resource for Di2 is Shimano's compatibility charts located on the e-tube project firmware site: http://e-tubeproject.shimano.com/guide/#guide_list

Latest Chart: http://e-tubeproject.shimano.com/...M-CC.3.2.1-00-EN.pdf See the notes on the battery models at the top of the page. You likely have the old batteries so your set ups would reference the system starting on Page 3. You probably also have the SM-EW67-A-E Junction A, which has two wires that plug directly into each brifter and one that connects to Junction B near the bottom bracket. For any TT shifter upgrade you'll need to replace the SM-EW67-A-E, because all TT shifters - brake/shifters - have builtin e-tube wires that must plug directly into a Junction box.

6770 is 10 speed Di2. If you want to change to 11 speed later you'll need new front and rear derailleurs.

Vision makes solid products, but my experience has been it can be difficult to track down parts. Their aerobars aren't necessarily renowned for adjustability. They are one of the few aerobar manufacturers that offer low stack bar options. If those fit coordinates from the P2 are solid and you can hit them with the Vision then they are probably a fine option. If you have plans to change your extension shape or bend I would suggest confirming the diameter used with those Vision bars to be sure it meets the industry standard 22.2mm.

You've been incredibly helpful, thanks. I'm going to hit my LBS later to see if they've got the parts in stock and some ideas themselves.

Another concern I have is getting my saddle forward on the S5 enough to find a good fit. I guess I need a pic!

Wait, do you have the first generation S5 or the current generation S5? The geometry of each is different and the info I provided was for the new/current generation. If yours is older, it will have more stack and less reach than what I listed.

I have a 2013 S5

Hatch job has begun. Will post more pics tomorrow. Was too late to go get suited up so I just jumped on.

Might raise saddle and try bring it forward. Will rotate bars clockwise too and bit then take some measurements.

Summit, reading that guide you linked to, I may be able to buy one of these to connect my existing JB to the TT shifters??

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/...ion-box/rp-prod85153




It will be a bit messy but will save me spending double on a 3-port JB like this?

https://www.amazon.com/...n&th=1&psc=1

Yes. That should work. You'll want to verify wire routing with whichever aerobar/extensions you end up with because they may not allow all to come together in one spot. Worst case would be two Jc-41s. Shimano now offers a small inline Junction B for single wire connections, but they are hard to find and price is still high.

Great thanks!

I think you need a different saddle that allows you to ride steeper and orient your hips a bit better and then increase your armpad reach. I'd also suggest fitting yourself such that your elbows are in your pads, not your forearms. The way you are using your cockpit is creating tension that will make the position less sustainable.

Thanks for the feedback James. I think my stem is too long and steep to begin with, which should help sort out my reach. I think that saddle is fully forward. Would as ISM saddle help? I noticed on TomA's build he's not riding that steep a seat angle.

I need to get another video with the proper gear on. And take some measurements too.

Pretty good guess. I have a pretty cool spread sheet that I use for fits and when I've moved from bike to bike. A -17 vs a -6 is about 3 cm of spacers. Plugging the numbers in I got this -17 110 stem plus 10mm spacer. He could go to a 120 stem and it would like 5mm more reach.

S5 is on left P2/3 on right.

STACK WITH SPACERS + STEM

597.56

597.33

0.23

REACH WITH SPACERS + STEM

508.08

511.47

-3.39

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Heath Dotson
HD Coaching:Website |Twitter: 140 Characters or Less|Facebook:Follow us on Facebook

Cheers Heath, not sure that table copied into the post correctly though? Could you take a screen shot?

I've a feeling my current stem is already in the 110-120 range, but you think with the -17 angle instead of the -6 I should be in better shape?

Hi - Great idea. I did this as well with the older S5 a few years ago and it worked out well. Inspired by Tom A and others and it's a fast setup.

Post is here: http://forum.slowtwitch.com/forum/?post=4571890
(scroll down for pics)

I think I had to go with a -12 stem and the bike was pretty comfortable over the IM distance. I felt plenty fast and did my best IM splits. You should have similar times as your P2 depending on your fit.

Good luck!

Thanks, I think I need an ISM saddle to get me forward, but in the interim I've ordered a bunch of stems to see what fits.

I actually changed to a Specialized Sitero before the race b/c I couldn't get a rear bottle cage on the ISM on the S5 (front seat position). The Sitero cage barely fit and was a lot cleaner to put my supplies in a bottle. I rode with a BTA bottle and downtube bottle which was fine between aid stations.

I moved back to the ISM PSN saddle on my current Trek SC setup. I think it's more a little more comfortable on a tt/tri bike. Sitero works great as well.

Summit do you know if the SW-R9160s are compatible? They're synchro-shifting based I believe, so I'd need to upgrade my battery as well?

Interesting, I'm only doing an Oly so would be ok with one bottle I think, on the downtube

Makes sense. Depending on the course, maybe get a BTA bottle so you don't have to reach for the bottle.

Tough to tell from your video, but you look a little scrunched up. So, basically rotate everything forward and up. Saddle higher and possibly forward (depends on your setback needs) and bars down/forward. Fit is all personal, so maybe that feels good for you and you can run off the bike well.