I can think of two possible solutions but not sure either will work.

1-swap out the freehub to Campy and run a Campy 11 cassette.
2-get a shimano/campy 11 conversion cassette. Maybe you've seen them, they are campy spacing with Shimano free hub spacing. Not sure if they are even made, but I remember they had them for 10 speed.

Try this. http://forum.slowtwitch.com/gforum.cgi?post=4671574

This. Leonard Zinn commented that Campy, SRAM and Shimano 11 speed spacings are virtually identical.

I have a 10-speed FFWD Powerdisc circa 2008. I've purchased a Campy freehub body and a Campy 11-speed cassette. I'm heading to the local bike shop this weekend and will post my results when I get them. The mechanic said he didn't think it would be a problem. The folks at FFWD said their only concern would be the chain and/or rear derailleur getting too close to the disc and possibly rubbing.

Thanks Greg and Mark, ill give that a try

-swap out the freehub to Campy and run a Campy 11 cassette.

This is the same thing Wheelbuilder told me.

This isn't a hard to fix problem. I took the recommendation to take one of the gears out of the 11 speed cassette along with a spacer and it worked. I had to add an additional spacer on the inside between the wheel and the cassette. I adjusted the 11 speed RD to limit out the 11th gear and the cassette works great. There is no shifting problems, the chain works well with the cassette, no chain skipping and no worry about early wear on the chain of the teeth. No parts are needed to be replaced and best of all the new bike can use a 10 speed hub. I do not need to buy a new Zipp disk for the 11 speed shimano or Dura Ace system.

I am in the same situation. My LBS simply machined off a bit on the rear of the 11 speed cassette and everything fitted together nicely.

EDCO Monoblock 11-speed cassettes with their Ten+Eleven locknut do not require a free hub change. Cheaper than the Campy solution, light, although they have a reputation for being loud.

I run this on my pre-2012 ZIPP 404s.

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"If everything seems in control, you aren't going fast enough" -- Mario Andretti

If you want to keep your 10-speed disc and want something quick, simple, and very inexpensive, this also works great:

http://darkspeedworks.com/blog-11speed.htm

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So simple, and flexible

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Dave Campbell | Facebook | @DaveECampbell | h2ofun@h2ofun.net

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I converted my Renn disc to 11 speed using a flat file and a bench vice. It took less than 20 minutes

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''Sweeney - you can both crush your AG *and* cruise in dead last!! 😂 '' Murphy's Law

there is also an aftermarket kit online in a few places and on ebay for this same issue. it works quite easily, i've used it on 4-5 zipp discs already. A bit pricey, but works. If you search and cant find it, send me a message and i can try to find you a link.

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Please post a link

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Dave Campbell | Facebook | @DaveECampbell | h2ofun@h2ofun.net

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Lions don't lose sleep worrying about the sheep

Try google and eBay first, if you can't find it in the next few days send me a pm and I'll find try to find it in my email. Last one I did was 3 or 4 months ago.

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http://www.ebay.com.au/...6:g:aEIAAOSwyQtVkqN4

Works just fine on 404 FC

Yup that is what we have used a few times. Easy conversion, i'd recommend the steel bearing model over the ceramics. I felt the bearings in both models were low grade, but it seemed the ceramics were worse than the steel initial feel wise. If you do get the ceramics, open them up to confirm they are ceramic as we had a set that were not.

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I got a renn 555 off the classifieds but it was NIB and came without a freehub body. Took it to the shop and we started playing "plug and play" and ended up with an 11 speed powertap freehub. Was not expecting that to be the end result.

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I have no experience with these at all, but it is possible (at least with the steel bearings) that they're not low grade, it is just that they are brand new cartridge bearings and they might do better after some break in time .

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unfortunately that has not been the case in our experience, all were pretty bad from the start and got considerably worse very quickly. Many of the "cheap" chinese bearings are often pretty bad. The mid level/higher range arent horrible, but really a swap to a higher grade enduro is so cheap and can keep you from scratching your head wondering whats going on and doing a tear apart later. Might as well do all the labor up front at initial install and be good to go. Plus you can lubricate/grease with whatever you want with how much you want. My recommendation is typically a nice set of stainless or if someone wants to spend the money a full ceramic, no hybrids.

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Good to know, I have zero experience with these. I have replaced cartridge bearings in some older zipp hubs and at first they seemed less than 100% slippery. But after a few hundred miles, they felt way way better.

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reviving this old thread...

I have a Zipp 900 disc with a silver 182 freehub body... you're saying pull the freehub and put on a Powertap freehub and go? Proper spacers of course.

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Yup. I just converted my Powertap hub to 11 speed and the only difference between the freehubs was that the shoulder on the inside of the hub was machined down so give the extra space.

Honestly, it's a modification you can do at home if you have the correct tools.

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Strava

a few clarifications... I'm running 10spd on the 555. When i went to excel and they brought out a litany of freehub bodies none worked with the renn.... till the dude had an "a ha!" moment and went back and looked for the p-tap free hubs (stored in a separate spot in the warehouse). This was the last shot... boom it worked. The pawls for the renn are the same as the ptap. But none of the other hubs we tried were compatible.

I've still yet to try putting an 11spd cassette on it.

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36 kona qualifiers 2006-'23 - 3 Kona Podiums - 4 OA IM AG wins - 5 IM AG wins - 18 70.3 AG wins
I ka nana no a 'ike -- by observing, one learns | Kulia i ka nu'u -- strive for excellence
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