I have the FSA SLK on my road bike and the Shimano on my TRI bike. Honestly I cannot tell the difference. I can tell you I really like them both and I have not had any issues with either. Standard DA drive trains on both bikes.

First question you have to answer is what crank length do you need for your inseam length.

Dave

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Dave Campbell | Facebook | @DaveECampbell | h2ofun@h2ofun.net

Boom Nutrition code 19F4Y3 $5 off 24 pack box | Bionic Runner | PowerCranks | Velotron | Spruzzamist

Lions don't lose sleep worrying about the sheep

Peter
I have FSA (on several bikes), Campy on one road bike and like both. Do a search lots of threads on this subject.

PS: All 50/34

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Train safe & smart
Bob

I have the FSA SLK's as well and although they are pretty nice there is one design problem. The non drive side retention bolt has a tendancy to come loose over time. It tightens clockwise which is opposite direction you pedal. Even using locktite mine have come loose over a few months of riding. More a nuicance than anything else but why didn't they design with reverse threads like the pedal mounting hole?

i have the race face cadence compact crank.

seems good so far, although i don't have enough miles on it yet to give a full assessment.
it's 36-50, don't know if it's available in 34 or not.

i also have the fsa front derailleur for compact cranks. _initial_ assessment is that this front der isn't a keeper.

-charles

I have FSA Gossamers (50/34) on my tri bike, and they work great. However, like a previous post said, the non-drive side does tend to loosen up over time, so I check it every week or so and tighten as needed.

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Mike Sparks


I have competed well, I have finished the race, I have kept the faith.

Ritchey WCS Compact. I've been on them for 2.5 seasons so far, and they have been superb.

My personal rec is to go to 50/36 Q rings. Doesn't really matter all that much which compact crank you use with them.

However, stay away from the early carbon Stronglight Pulsion compacts. They were advertised as the lightest on the market. Apparently the later ones are OK but there were some big problems with the earlier ones as seen here.

I also have the Ritchey WCS compact cranks. So far, I love 'em. Have only been on them since December.

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Steve Perkins

I agree on the Q-rings but if you want to run those, you have to watch the compatibility of the cranks. My Shimano compact crank arm spider would not accomodate the outer Q-ring and I believe this is the case with the Campy as well. The OP might want to keep this in mind if he is thinking of Q-rings in the future.

robert

Thanks for all the info so far, keep it coming!

Aside from mentioning the Stronglights, no one's brought up weight, stiffness, or durability. Are these characteristic unimportant or are all the players similar in these regards?

p

The Ritchey's are lighter than my 9sp DA. I've had no durability issues in 2.5 seasons and don't expect to through this season. I'm not sure anyone can REALLY tell you one crank is stiffer than another these days just from riding (other than some of the cheaper carbon cranks). That being said, the Ritchey's tested at or near the top in the lab.

I have 2 sets of 180mm Rotor Cranks set up with 50-34. One set on my training TT bike and one on my road bike. My racing TT bike has 180mm Rotor Cranks with a 54-39.

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Paul

FSA SLK on my tri bike and Forte (Performance brand) carbon crank, Isis-splined on my road bike. Couldn't tell a stiffness difference with my eyes closed, or open for that matter.