I put the cable stops in a lathe at work and drilled then out to the larger size. You could probably do the same with putting the stop in a vise and using a drill if you are careful and take your time.

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-Mike

Vertex Fit Systems (http://www.vertexfitsystems.com) | Bikeworks (http://www.bikeworksma.com) | Russo Racing (http://www.r2tri.com)

I did this following the tririg video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RORISzYGxso

it calls for 5mm ferrules

didn't have to modify anything

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Kat Hunter reports on the San Dimas Stage Race from inside the GC winning team
Aeroweenie.com -Compendium of Aero Data and Knowledge
Freelance sports & outdoors writer Kathryn Hunter

Jack thats the parts I purchased, did you just slip the 4mm housing in that 5mm ferrule? it leaves a small gap, a little bit of slop. I take it the housing needs no additional ferrule? Is there any issue with moisture, sweat etc getting in there?

Ahh, I see, yes I went straight in with the housing. Whatever slop results does not seem to affect shifting, it feels normal.

If you want to shim it a bit you could use a strip of soda can perhaps wrapped around the end as shim.

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Kat Hunter reports on the San Dimas Stage Race from inside the GC winning team
Aeroweenie.com -Compendium of Aero Data and Knowledge
Freelance sports & outdoors writer Kathryn Hunter

I don't see any problem with a bit of play at the cable/stop interface. But if you don't use nosed ferrules, then you have to run liner along the entire length of the cable inside the frame. Like half a gram extra weight, not to mention cable drag!

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CodyBeals.com | Instagram | TikTok
ASICS | Ventum | Martin's | HED | VARLO | Shimano | 4iiii | Keystone Communications

I'll add that I just inspected my cable guides after 18 months on hard use and they are perfectly fine. That nylon tubing is indestructible.

I like m.medeiros's idea of drilling out the cable stops. There's definitely enough thickness there. Much less finicky than grinding down the ferrules like I did. Not sure why I didn't think of that...

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CodyBeals.com | Instagram | TikTok
ASICS | Ventum | Martin's | HED | VARLO | Shimano | 4iiii | Keystone Communications

Cody,

Did you just remove the 'nose' part and replace it with the liner? Or push the liner over the 'nose'? That's a lot cleaner than what I had come up with. Will need to do that whenever I replace the cables.

Mike

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-Mike

Vertex Fit Systems (http://www.vertexfitsystems.com) | Bikeworks (http://www.bikeworksma.com) | Russo Racing (http://www.r2tri.com)

I superglued the liner over the nose of the ferrules. It's really secure and it avoids using full length liner. My method can be found on my blog (link in my sig line).

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CodyBeals.com | Instagram | TikTok
ASICS | Ventum | Martin's | HED | VARLO | Shimano | 4iiii | Keystone Communications

So since there was 10 in the pack, I experimented with them. I dont have a lathe can couldnt find my vice since my last move.

so I got some vice grips and clamped it to the rail of my trailer and used my hand drill. I stepped it up with 2 different size bits but drilled out the cable stops to fit the nosed ferrules that came with the jagwire kit.

So now i need to go purchase some of the nylon hosing, I do think thats more substantial than cable liner.

But the nosed ferrules fit like it was meant to be like it, the cable stops are repainted. Problem solved!

Thanks