Slowman wrote:
marcag wrote:
I find it interesting that with NO DATA, we are claiming what is better/faster........and "I told you so".
thanks for engaging. i just got back from sea otter last night. i don't know why SRAM wanted to launch its disc during sea otter. this makes it kind of hard to pay enough attention to this if you're writing this up for an audience because you're... busy with sea otter. so, i omitted the data part of this in my writeup of zipp's new disc. now that i'm back i'll present what i have and i'll tell you what i do NOT have that i wish i had and that i will try to get from zipp. give me a day or two.
marcag wrote:
We can do all kinds of mental gymnastics to get Silca to spit out a number below 5 bar. I never said Silca was right, I said my results are more like Silca than Zipp that chooses to ignore road conditions.
i don't think my presentation of silca's results are contorting the numbers to fit a narrative. i've just been looking at why there is a disparity between various recommendations, and in my attempt to reconcile them i felt that the big delta is that many people - i, for one, and suspect i'm not the only - see "measured tire width" and think screw it, there can't be that much difference between named and measured, i'll just go with named and call it good.
but in fact the tire makers name their widths based on a 19mm inner bead width and that's on NEW tires recently introduced (any tire in a mold a couple of years old or older probably measures true to a named size on a rim with a 15mm internal width). all the hookless makers are using 23mm and 25mm internal bead widths. this grows the tire in width by 2mm at least beyond its named size. that's a pretty big difference and just right there you drop 10psi from the silca recommended pressure (if you use measured instead of nominal). at this point the silca recommended pressures and the pressures the manufacturers recommend are pretty close. silca is still higher, but by maybe 5psi or less.
then you have this other thing - which you test - and when i imagine how you test i believe i can see how your testing would exceed the chung method in accuracy and utility, because silca used a freshly paved road for its testing. so freshly paved it was still closed to traffic. for a discrete stretch of road, a few hundred yards maybe, just paved, there are no imperfections. then you move this all to a race course - and IM let us say - and you have some really great roads. but then there are stretches when the roads aren't so great. but you can't change tires or tire pressures during the race. the manufacturers - and their world tour cyclists, they say - err on the side of the imperfect sections of perfect courses because what they lose through overinflation during those stretches dwarfs the very small gains extra pressure gives them on the glass smooth road surfaces elsewhere on the course.
i'm relating. not advocating. in my own riding, i'm in an area that freezes. we get freeze cracks on our asphalt and at its worst it's like riding over railroad tracks. we have quite good roads in general. but the freeze cracks, and these sections occur here and there, with transverse cracks in the asphalt maybe 20 yards apart for stretches, are really not worth trying to get the extra pressure in there to deliver the extra watt on a smooth road. if i knew a road was perfectly smooth the whole way yes, i'd throw more air in there. i just don't have much experience riding a course that is uniformly paved that way. kona surely isn't. nor is oceanside, arizona, texas, placid, penticton, nice and so on. for sure, i understand that your reality is different. discrete TT roads in europe, closed to traffic, in countries that care enough about their pavement to put the good stuff down. not so where i live ;-/
I’m trying to bring the topic back to the use of the new Zipp wheel, a disc wheel, built to ride with speed and for races. I have never raced in the US so can’t comment on the road surface there. It might be as bad / worse as you say, I don’t know. Let me take this wheel to where I live and we have very good roads for cycling and for sure on most race courses for 90-95% of the course.
So for us the use of this wheel is speed. Using Silca’s calculator it still spits out pressures thar are either out of limit of hookless or barely within the limit. When I choose rider and bike at my 87-88 kg, choose a top tubeless tire in 30 mm width and new pavement it gives me 5.15 bar and 4.85 bar when it is worn pavement with some cracks. Only really bad pavement gives a value that comes close to the pressure that is actually the normal value advised by either Zipp, Enve or Cadex.
The 28 mm width tire on a Cadex disc wheel or their 4-spoke wheels measure 30 mm, but even choosing 31 mm makes little to no difference.
The use of a disc is to gain speed, nothing less or more, just speed is the main goal. The question is is hookless then the right choice to built a disc wheel on if it limits it range to 5 bar pressure. Am I willing to sacrifice 3-5 watts, maybe 6, on a wheel that sets me back $3000.
The thing I find really interesting is that their also brand new disc wheel for track with 21 internal rim width is built hooked so it can be used with 23 mm tires at 8.6 bars.
What data of testing could they have that they still decided to make the road disc wheel with 23 mm internal width hookless but being limited to 5 bar pressure.
And if they have data that proofs that this wheel tests faster with 28 or 30 mm tires at 4, 4.3 or 4.5 bar then on a hooked version with the same built dimension, same tires in type and width but at higher pressure why don’t they provide it?
I’m not buying a disc wheel because I want a comfortable wheel, at $3000 I want the fastest that is possible, agreed?
Jeroen
Owner at TRIPRO, The Netherlands