Not a wrench but I play one in my garage...

I assume this is without the chain on. If it rotates for two revolutions I think it's installed correctly; if not it wouldn't spin at all. If you're concerned you can try to put some more grease on the axle. I wouldn't worry too much though; I don't think I've ever had a bike that spins "more freely" than two revolutions.

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Citizen of the world, former drunkard. Resident Traumatic Brain Injury advocate.

Is it brand new, just installed? And is it for a SRAM crank? I've yet to see a SRAM install spin more than 3 or 4 turns at first (this is on both ceramic speed and kogel bottom brackets). Shimano crank setups because of how the load is set can spin a much longer time.

Usually, though, all systems settle in after a few hundred miles and spin more freely. I think this is mostly due to grease settling and the dust caps loosening a little over time.

You could relax the preload adjuster (the knurled dial close to the frame) on the non drive side and see if that changes the spin duration.
The aim of preload is to take up any slack after the crank fixing bolt is done up, but it shouldn't be so tight that the bearings get compressed.

That's a lot of money for about a watt.

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https://markmcdermott.substack.com

#incrementalgains

:-)

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Citizen of the world, former drunkard. Resident Traumatic Brain Injury advocate.

I second the comment to double check the preload. If the shop is not familiar with nicer BB's, or they just did not pay enough attention, too much preload will drag down any BB, $300 or $30.
Grease on the spindle will not make a difference, it isn't spinning on anything. The spindle interfaces with the inner bearing races (or spacers/adaptors) and the motion occurs between the races. Now, if the seals are not installed correctly, or the wrong dust covers (or bad dustcovers) are used, that can cause extra drag as well.

A properly set up crank with a decent BB should be able to spin (without the chain) for 20+ seconds.

I don't think I've ever witnessed a crankset, even without chain, spin for more than a few seconds. 20 seconds?!

I had an old campy square taper BB on my first cross bike that seemed to spin 'forever'. Don't think I ever timed it, but I do think it would be up there with the most expensive ones currently on the market.

Phil Wood carbonyte bearings will allow a crankset to spin and then pendulum back and forth for at least a minute.

Cyclenutnz and this response are spot on. If you're going to error, error on the loose side with that pre-load ring instead of on the tight side. It should be fairly broken in by now, so if it's not spinning well after loosening the pre-load ring then my opinion is that one or both of the bearings weren't pressed in perfectly straight.

Doublea334/Alex is really good at getting bottom brackets spinning smoothly. Here's what he said regarding the Rotor 3d+:

I tighten down the preload pretty well to make sure the arms are fully pulled together. Then I back it out a little at a time until the non-drive crank arm has a tiny bit of play. Then I know to tighten down just a bit more.

I've seen lots of PF30 crank installs that don't spin very easy. Seems to be more the norm than the exception:(

I'm not familiar with Ceramicspeed's offerings so I took a look at their site. Depending on whether you purchased this BB online or from LBS I'd recommend checking directly with CS and/or your LBS because CS says their PF30/BBRight/386EVO BB is NOT compatible with the P5. http://[[url]http://www.ceramicspeed.com/sport/product.aspx?catalog=24&category=BottomBrackets&product=279&sku=PF4630%20(PF30/BBright/386EVO)/url]

They state you need to use their BB30 BB and reuse your cup(s)?!? If they are telling you to reuse the OEM Rotor or SRAM plastic pressin cups and this is what your LBS did, then I can see where there may be bearing alignment issues. If the LBS used the CS PF30 BB then the P5 incompatibility may be what you're seeing?!? Not sure why the incompatibility, there is the P5 BB cable guide screw that can limit BB sleeve clearances, but just grinding the screw down usually provides adequate clearance.

The P5 issue stems from excess carbon on the inside of the BB shell not cleaned up after the mold was removed. I believe it interferes with the depth of the alloy cups CeramicSpeed uses. The stock Rotor cups are not nearly as deep so they dont have an issue apparently.

Shameless plug....but thought I'd share :-)

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/9W1Ld8TM56w" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

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http://www.slfmotion.com
Instagram - @SLFMotion

Shameless plug for the Ceramicspeed bottom bracket that comes with that bike? or?
I didn't see bottom brackets or bb bearings on your site.

Far from a plug for a competitor haha...I like the comment though 😜👍🏼. This was an upgrade TO an SLF Motion Hyper Bottom Bracket....

Correct, not on the site yet simply because they aren’t available. With any luck, I should get them released by Spring/Summer of 2018 👍🏼

Thanks!
Blake

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http://www.slfmotion.com
Instagram - @SLFMotion

Well hopefully you price them reasonably. I think you have some potential in general with some traction but the price points are too high. With that being said, I am going with a steel bearing from Hawk Racing any day of the week. They are far less expensive and offer greater durability IMHO while offering the same friction results and watt savings as the best ceramics.

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Thanks for the kind words Thomas, appreciate it! I would love for my products to retail for 50% of what they do BUT the reality is, when I'm dealing with producing parts by the 100's (and not 1000's or 10,000's), my cost is very high. Take my Hyper Speed System for example...it's a tough bill (yes bill haha) for me to swallow each time I pay for one of those 17-Tooth billet Titanium wheels THEN get it coated...ugh! Having been an Industrial 3D Product Designer (for the likes of Caterpillar and AGCO) for the past 8+ years, I understand the manufacturing process quite well and understand what I need to do in order to get to where I need to be. I'm in this thing for the long haul so give me some more time to build this thing up and....you might just seem some prices come DOWN as I'm able to afford to produce more.

Oh, and did I mention that I'm still doing SLF Motion at nights/on weekends as I continue to hold my M-F 9-5 design job....and have a wife and 2 little kids at home. Maybe once I decide to make the jump and focus solely on SLF Motion full-time, that may allow me the time/energy to "penny pinch" a bit more :-)

Thanks again Thomas!
Blake @ SLF Motion

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http://www.slfmotion.com
Instagram - @SLFMotion