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I have been upgrading components on my steed this winter and doing it myself. My optimism and enthusiasm for doing my own bike work has wained a little since routing new cables on my internally routed bike.
Anyways it doesn't look especially hard or demanding but I'm wondering about what kind of lubricant I should use, how much and where? And in general what kind of hang ups if any I should look out for....as a lot that can be learned or avoided in hindsight. I'm upgrading to DA if that matters
Be very careful to get the correct threading on the new bottom bracket and to hand start the cups on both sides, visually verifying that they go in straight and easily by hand. Unless you have a steel bike, making a mistake here can cost more than it's worth to fix for many bikes. Just use grease on the bike threads and the bottom bracket threads, anywhere metal meets metal.
http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=95
Be sure to spend the money on the "correct" tools for the job. It makes it much easier and safer. Actually.....its very easy!
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Paul
DA 10 spd is generally easy to install. DA 9 spd is a little harder due to it not being a Cartridge type BB and requires you adjust/compress the bearings.
If you're going to go to DA 9 spd I suggest just going to the Ultegra 9spd because it is a cartridge type. The weight difference is insignificant.
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Trevor S: Jan 13, 06 5:34
All good advice above. I recommend going with external bearing type for sure, like DA 10 spd, FSA Mega-exo, etc. These are no-brainers to install as long as you grease and start by hand. The DA even comes with the proper tool for tightening the bearings.
If you go with an old-style (where the bearings end up inside the bb shell) you have to make sure you have the proper tool to install it - it varies for manufacturers. You may also need a crank puller to get your old one out. These bb's tend to be more of a pain to install than the external bearing types.
If the bb won't easily thread into the shell, you may need to take it to a shop and get the threads chased out. Sometimes you can do this yourself if the threads are gunked up w/ old dry grease - use something like a small knife balde and gently run it around the threads forcing the gunk out.
TK
ttbikefit.com
For an aluminum or Ti frame I was under the impression you should use anti-seize. It can usually be found in the plumbing section of your hardware store (aka "pipe dope"). Good luck.
I use synthetic grease everywhere, and plenty of it. Some recommend using the teflon plumber's tape as well, I figure it won't hurt. The last bb I removed I'd used the plumber's tape on, and it came out sweet as a nut after three years and a fair bit of wet-weather riding.
To clean out the frame threads, I used an old toothbrush and simple green citrus cleaner.
The one really vital thing as already mentioned is to start the threading very carefully, and don't force anything - it's quite easy to cross-thread, forcing that will make life very unpleasant.
"It is a good feeling for old men who have begun to fear failure, any sort of failure, to set a schedule for exercise and stick to it. If an aging man can run a distance of three miles, for instance, he knows that whatever his other failures may be, he is not completely wasted away." Romain Gary, SI interview