I don't do much gravel riding, but the long gravel rides I've done have left my ass noticeably less tired than road rides of similar length, I think because of the bigger tires with lower pressure I use on gravel.

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http://www.jt10000.com/

So the Gravel Grinder Pro, not the Race or Comp, is the one to get, correct?

Besides pinch flats, what are the benefits of going tubeless on gravel? I get fat biking and mtn biking as far as traction.

I run my Clements Ush at 30psi with no issues of pinched flats and I have plenty of traction. I'm debating whether its worth it to try and set these non-tubless tires as tubeless. My wheels are tubeless ready, but not the tires.

Yup. As with most tires, the highest TPI, the better :-)

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http://bikeblather.blogspot.com/

My "gravel riding" is limited to 1 - 5km passages over gravel sections of road, linking up paved roads, or perhaps a bit further along well graded rail-trails. I do this all on my road bike with 700 x 25 tires. For the most part these gravel roads are what I call "good gravel" in fact some of them are smoother and in better shape, than some of our local, frost-heaved, cracked, pot-holed and badly patched paved roads!

Occasionally I will encounter rougher sections - usually wash-board in the middle of the road, where most of the car traffic goes. I've often found relief and a smoother ride, but going close to the edges of the road and seeking out that ribbon of loose gravel, between where the cars have been going, and the actual edge of the road. There is still a firm under-section, with a bit of loose gravel on top and it's often WAY smoother than the washboard in the tire-track sections!

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Steve Fleck @stevefleck | Blog

For another bike? There's not a 650 Terra Pro. Even if there was, they would be terrible gravel tires for anything except pure muck. My 33's finally came in Friday and there's no way they will be used for anything except cyclocross in loose conditions. The new tread is truly a mud tire and have such deep and spread knobs that they *seem* like they would roll poorly.

1) Get big tires and go tubeless. It will make a world of difference

2) Go with slightly lower pressure

3) Don't worry about riding on your tops.

4) Dodge potholes when possible

Redshift Sports has a suspension stem (Shockstop) that allows you to swap out rubber spacers and fine-tune things.

I've used their clip-on bars and been pleased w/ that product...
Getting ready for a gravel build, and thinking about giving the the Shockstop a try.

That is a great question....I did throw a wink in my whole tubeless statement, right? Actually, I was setting Tom A up with that comment and I think he answered it quite well.

Sounds like you're getting things done without going tubeless and I am at a loss to give you a good reason to change over with your current setup. You'd get rid of a tube, but tubeless is still messier and harder to set up. Also, there is latex all the way up to 2.3", so it's not like you can argue that with wider tires you're only left with butyl options. Maybe you could argue weight, but now we're really grasping.

As far as setting non-tubeless as tubeless I wouldn't go that way. I tried that with my LAS and was incredibly frustrated with how much sealant I had to run and the front never sealed.

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I can second the larger tires and lower pressures. I went to 38's and about 50 PSI tubeless and am using the very supple Compass tires and it made all the difference. I can go down gravel hills at speed now comfortably. The supple tires still move well on the paved roads even at the lower pressure.

Carl

Have you ever ridden with a Grit installed ?

Thanks
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